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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a 30 year old single stage Bolens 320. It's powered by a Briggs 62030 2-cycle engine that has a diaphragm style carburetor.

After a little work it was running fine, although it would surge just a bit. A few days ago I put about 1.5oz of Seafoam in the cylinder to give it a good cleaning, I can see the carbon build up on the piston behind the plug easily. I let it sit until yesterday and started her right up. It smoked like crazy, but ran fine. It was certainly still surging a bit, but I expected that.

I then attempted to adjust the needle valve. I adjusted it several times, both clockwise and counter-clockwise. Nothing seemed to make a difference. After the last adjustment, I couldn't get the engine started again.

I let it sit over night, but that did nothing. I even changed the spark plug, but still nothing. I opened the carburetor, but it looked clean. There is not reason why it wouldn't be clean. There is definitely fuel coming from the tank to the carburetor, there is no blockage. The only way I can get it to turn over for just a few seconds is to either add Seafoam to the cylinder or add starting fluid to the carburetor.

Just to note, the primer is definitely showing some age. It is cracked and fuel does come flying out after a few pumps. This is nothing new, it has happened since the day I bought it a few weeks ago.

I have no idea what to do next.

Any ideas?

Here's a link to the engine.

Briggs and Stratton 62030 Series Parts List and Diagram : eReplacementParts.com
 

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The seafoam and starter fluid seem to be giving better combustion in the short term. Maybe instead of seafoam put a little bit of motor oil in the sparkplug hole to see if it would run as this might give better compression. What fuel mix are you using a 50:1 maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The seafoam and starter fluid seem to be giving better combustion in the short term. Maybe instead of seafoam put a little bit of motor oil in the sparkplug hole to see if it would run as this might give better compression. What fuel mix are you using a 50:1 maybe?
Manual says to run 30:1, so that's what I have been using.
 

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My guess is the seafoam broke loose some gunk and is now stuck in a passage way. Even though it looks like you just cleaned it one speck could clog the carb.
 

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My guess is the seafoam broke loose some gunk and is now stuck in a passage way. Even though it looks like you just cleaned it one speck could clog the carb.
I agree. If the last thing you were doing involved the needle valve, I would go back to that. Did you mark the original position so you could return to it? Did you by any chance close it all the way at any point? Is the tip or seat damaged?
 

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Is the spark plug wet after trying to start it multiple times? Two strokes store excess fuel in the crankcase and you may have to remove the spark plug and pull the recoil until your arm is tired to purge the excess fuel.

Have you tried putting a little fuel mix into the cylinder and try starting it, to prove it is a carb issue?

Have you confirmed you still have spark when trying to start it?
 

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Great. Lots of suggestions.

I don't think the needle valve has any problems. I did pull it out and inspect it. I'm not expert, but it looked fine.
 

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Great. Lots of suggestions.

I don't think the needle valve has any problems. I did pull it out and inspect it. I'm not expert, but it looked fine.
Still looking for a blockage. Since it fires when youninject fuel, you know o have spark, I assume you have good fuel and air, but the fuel isn't getting past the card is what it sounds like.
 

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While the needle looks fine, the little passageways that go toward, and away from the needle may be clogged. It may need a good soaking, and a blowout.
Sis
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nurse, check the time. All hope might be lost.

I cleaned the carburetor....again. Nothing.

I checked the fuel lines....clean and good flow. Nothing.

I check for spark....well it sort-of turned over once when there was some left over fuel in the carburetor so there must be spark. Nothing

Finally, I pour about .5 oz. - .75 oz. of oil behind the plug. Siezed! Almost impossible to pull the cord.

I think I need to call it. Too bad, it was running fine (besides a little surging) just a few days ago.
 

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i dont think it seized, probably just hydrolocked from the oil on top of the cyl. take the plug wire off and turn the engine over backwards from the direction the recoil would spin it, the oil should run out through the exhaust port .
 

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Nurse, check the time. All hope might be lost.

I cleaned the carburetor....again. Nothing.

I checked the fuel lines....clean and good flow. Nothing.

I check for spark....well it sort-of turned over once when there was some left over fuel in the carburetor so there must be spark. Nothing

Finally, I pour about .5 oz. - .75 oz. of oil behind the plug. Siezed! Almost impossible to pull the cord.

I think I need to call it. Too bad, it was running fine (besides a little surging) just a few days ago.
In my little 4hp - 4cycle with diaphragm, after sitting around for a long while I pulled on the cord and there seemed to be no compression so I put a little oil in the plug hole, put the plug back in and could not pull the cord, so I took the plug out and could easily pull the cord a few times, so I put the plug back in and pulled the cord and it turned over and the compression seemed normal. I just thought it had lost compression because there was not enough of an oil coating in rings and cylinder.
 

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Ok, so I just came in from the garage. Turns out it was just hydro-locked. I took out th plug, pulled the cord a few times and a bit of oil came sprewing out. I replaced the cord and I was able to pull the cord again.

However, I still think it is starved for gas. I can pull the cord 8-12 times and it will start for a few seconds. A ton of white smoke will come out of the muffler, I assume that is the oil burning off. However, once the smoke goes away, after a few seconds, the engine cuts out and I have to start pulling the cord again.

What could I have done? The only thing I did was adjust the needle valve. I pulled it out today when I was cleaning the carb. It appears to be fine. There is still a point and it is really clean.
 

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Just a few random thoughts...

You say the primer "is cracked and fuel comes flying out"... do you mean fuel comes out of the primer, or the carburetor? If the primer leaks fuel, it's probably leaking air too... which may make the carb unable to draw fuel from the tank.

The next thing I'd try is (carefully) pulling the bottom of the carb off. The trick is you don't want to damage the diaphragm. Before you do that, examine the parts diagram until you understand how that part of the carb goes together, because when you remove the diaphragm some small parts are likely to come flying out and you need to know where to put them when you reassemble it.

With the diaphragm off, examine it carefully for any cracks... even a tiny one can make the carb not work right. Then check everything around it... it's possible a speck of dirt or something got in there and is making things not work right.

For what it's worth, if you put Seafoam in the spark plug hole and not in the gas, I don't buy that it damaged the carb. To get to the vulnerable part of the carburetor (the diaphragm), it would have to travel backwards all the way through the engine, through the intake port (which could happen only if the piston was not covering it) into the carb, then backwards through the jets to the diaphragm. That's highly unlikely... I think the problem you're having is just coincidental.
 

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I'm guessing since it's a 2 cycle it's the actual primer bulb that might be cracked since it actually is pumping gas.
If you can't get a P/N for it you might get lucky with a "variety pack" containing a few sizes, hardware store, big box, ...

I don't know enough about 2 cycles but it's possible with that thing cracked the carb is sucking air instead of being able to pull gas from the tank.

Arnold Primer Bulb Variety Pack for Handheld Equipment-490-239-0001 - The Home Depot

 
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