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Discussion Starter #1
I have a model 920403 (SSN 078696) that is a few seasons old. I summerized it (fuel stabilizer, run till empty, etc) and about 6 weeks ago started it up to make sure it was ready for the season. Of course we have a storm coming tonight so I pulled it up to the garage in prep and tried to start. It fired on the 2nd pull, ran briefly (1 sec) and then died. No amount of pulling would start it. So I hooked up the electric start. Long story short, no start and fuel coming out of the valve cover vent tube so I stopped, pulled the plug and it was fouled. I dried it off and let the open cylinder air dry for an hour while I poked around. I drained the old fuel out of the bottom of the carb. When I noticed that a black wire from the kill and on-off switch harness was chewed by a mouse and broken. Here's a photo: (well, I can't post photos yet!)

I can't figure out where it attaches! I removed the control panel, muffler cover, etc and still no luck. I finally put everything back together after the flooding had evaporated, reinstalled the plug and then attempted to start with no choke and only 2 presses of the fuel pump - remember I had drained the carb chamber. I clicked the power start and it fired up, puff of dark smoke, ran for maybe 5 seconds and then died. Attempts to restart resulted in immediate flooding and sputtering fuel out the valve cover vent. This was with that mysterious black wire still disconnected.

So, I am not sure if I have an electrical issue or maybe my carb needs cleaning. Can these carbs stick in an open position to cause flooding?

I have now removed the carb to clean and check it. Here's a better photo of the black wire: (well, I can't post photos yet!)
Any thoughts on troubleshooting?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I think I should focus on the flooding issue. Can a carburetor "stick" open? I've only had them stick closed, thus preventing fuel from reaching the cylinder.
 

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yes, the float can stick open, and/or the float needle may not be seating. try opening the fuel shut off for maybe 15-20 seconds, then close it. now start the machine , it should run for a minute or two..maybe longer on the fuel thats in the bowl before it dies.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The carb looks pretty good inside, no evidence of enamel, the float valve moves freely (the float and the plunger). With the float lifted, fuel input line is blocked. So that seems normal and working properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks nwcove. I'll check the jet and then reassemble the carb. So to understand what you are suggesting - opening the fuel shut off is how it normally is so that would fill the bowl, you are then suggesting to close the shut off and attempt to start so only fuel in the bowl will be used, correct? I can give that a shot but when I did get it started it died much faster (5 seconds) and then was flooded.
 

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you have the carb off ? if so, blow into the fuel nipple with the carb held upside right.....you should be able to blow air into it, now flip it upside down and repeat......if the needle is seating you should not be able to easily blow air into it. ( do not use an air compressor....just good ol lung power )
 

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Float stuck?
I would fix the wire first.
If you can't find where the wire is from and you're looking at it this would be hard to help with.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@nwcove, that is what I was trying to say in my previous post. Upright, air flows, upside down it does not so the float valve and plunger seem to be working - at least now, maybe removing the carb freed it up?

@mrfixit - I agree! That's why I posted for help. I was hoping maybe someone with this machine could take a look under the carb and see where that black wire goes. All of the other wires in the harness are white, the mouse decided to chew the black one!

photo:
 

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Thanks nwcove. I'll check the jet and then reassemble the carb. So to understand what you are suggesting - opening the fuel shut off is how it normally is so that would fill the bowl, you are then suggesting to close the shut off and attempt to start so only fuel in the bowl will be used, correct? I can give that a shot but when I did get it started it died much faster (5 seconds) and then was flooded.
Yes, fill the float bowl, then shut the fuel off. if the machine runs for a minute or so before it dies, safe bet to say its a carb issue, not electrical.
 

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i will head up to the shed and see if i can get you a decent pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There should be the remainder or stub left for the black wire.
You would think but I've looked everywhere using a bright trouble and spot light. The wire is only a few inches long so it is fairly easy to search in that radius and yet I find nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks @nwcove that would be greatly appreciated. I don't know if the wire is the issue but at least I can eliminate that.

The carb looks really clean inside. The jet is clean and all the holes are clear. Everything looks good to me. I spritzed everything with Sea Foam, dried and reassembled. I'll put it back in the machine after dinner (EST here in the Boston areas).
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Great, ok so there's the wire and it is clear as mud where it attaches!

Is the left side of your photo - the side with the twist tie, the front of the machine or the back? I'm trying to orient the photo since it looks different than mine. I don't seem to have that black box with LH printed on it.
 

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it does look quite different than yours but the black wire on mine goes in behind the recoil shroud.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, I give up! I took off the front impeller shroud, nothing there. My black wire is not long enough nor was it positioned to get anywhere close to the recoil shroud. I turned the machine over, on its side and looked everywhere and I just can't find it.

I have everything reassembled and ready to test start. Should I leave the choke off and also not pump the priming bulb with the shutoff valve closed?

What model of machine do you have, it seems very different than mine.
 

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from you pic, the wire is very close to the recoil/fan shroud. it looks like it might go to the coil ? in the pic i posted the fan shroud is on the right, with the carb bowl just out of the frame...to the right. would be good to repair it, but it shouldnt cause a flooding issue, maybe shorting , or kill switch wont work, but not flooding. jmo

mine is a 92403 28E
 
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