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The gov linkage here should be a straight run from gov arm to the throttle arm. The kinks are effectively changing the factory setting of the governor and no new carb can fix the resulting hunting.

178463
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
looked up OE replacement carb on e-replacement site. 390 degree view shows it is built the same as old one i took off and new aftermarket. idle spring screw, black cap, and single non-spring bottom bolt. so, i'm still trying to understand what would be available, or necessity of, an "adjustable" carb if the OE is not.

*part number 50-659
Manufacturer: Briggs and Stratton, Toro, Tecumseh, MTD
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
The gov linkage here should be a straight run from gov arm to the throttle arm. The kinks are effectively changing the factory setting of the governor and no new carb can fix the resulting hunting.

View attachment 178463
ok, that might be a good clue. it may have been bent up during original removing from donor machine, or maybe it was already bent on the donor machine. what's the best way to get that rod detached/attached from the governor/throttle lever?
 

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Remove the throttle bracket from the blower housing. Tilt it out of the z-bend. People try to bend them out with needle nose or route them wrong to begin with (under fuel line) and force the throttle lever. The part is like $2 for OEM if you want to replace over summer. Sometimes they get fatigued from too many "adjustments." Your other carb in pic is probably fine, the bowl is not on correctly , but may just be finger tight for reference in pic?
PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
 

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The gov linkage here should be a straight run from gov arm to the throttle arm. The kinks are effectively changing the factory setting of the governor and no new carb can fix the resulting hunting.

View attachment 178463
The link below your arrows is the one from the throttle plate to the gov arm, and IS straight from what I can see. The one you are pointing to is from the throttle control to the gov, via the spring in the throttle. Bends (if not supposed to be there) can still be a problem, but less so than on the other.
 

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The link below your arrows is the one from the throttle plate to the gov arm, and IS straight from what I can see. The one you are pointing to is from the throttle control to the gov, via the spring in the throttle. Bends (if not supposed to be there) can still be a problem, but less so than on the other.
I used the arrows so there wouldn't be confusion, but lets look anyway.
Here's the correct Governor Link (34667), it should be straight as I mentioned


Here's the correct Throttle Link (33878) that you perceive to be straight, it is not
 

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The link in the picture going from the gov to the throttle on the catb IS straight in the portion seen in the photo, and is NOT the one the arrows pointed to, and I was just pointing that out . . .
 

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It could be the problem however I would not bet money on it. The surging happens on brand new carbs so....... who knows, don't get excited, just replace the governor rod and see, then deal with the carb if so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
It could be the problem however I would not bet money on it. The surging happens on brand new carbs so....... who knows, don't get excited, just replace the governor rod and see, then deal with the carb if so.
yes, we'll see. when i transferred the donor carb, that surging was also happening. i thought to myself that i doubt both engines have the same issue, it is probably the old carb. but with the new carb (old linkages) the issue remains.

hopefully my local dealer has the linkage rod. don't feel like ordering it and paying shipping.

and after installing an unbent governor rod, the governor will be pushed back significantly and bring the throttle with it. hopefully calming everything down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
ok, so i disconnected one end of the governor rod (can't seen to disconnect at the governor without pulling the governor), and finger straightened the rod. not perfect, but better. seemed to run somewhat better. idles down better. probably gonna find both rods and replace as a base.

like before, noticed some "backfire, puffing" noise, esp. at lower throttle. i realize this is a 15+ year old engine with unknown history. do you think it has to do with fuel supply still, or head gasket etc? gonna pull out my 724 and get it running as comparison.

also, gonna need to examine the friction wheel/disc. only now am i able to drive this unit. is powerful forward and reverse, but noticed some stuff, like temporary frozen drive wheel, and stuck in reverse throughout all gear selections.
linkages look fine, but maybe the friction disc/wheel are rough.
 

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If you are not sure of the gasoline, drain the tank, drain the carb, your new fuel should be absolutely bought today from a name brand station in an empty can. I tell people, put your gas in a clear 2L soda bottle, it should be clear, not cloudy, not golden, and no water in the bottom, them use it.

Old machine, you may want to check the valve clearance. Watch a YouTube.
 

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Not for nothing, but did the fuel line check out ok?

I mention that, as I have seen them break down a few times without them actually leaking .
 

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went to dump today to dump some yard waste....went over to metal area.

no snowblowers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Not for nothing, but did the fuel line check out ok?

I mention that, as I have seen them break down a few times without them actually leaking .
It appears ok, I did not replace it. I did add a shut off valve.
 

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As long as the line is free flowing with no obstruction in it, and the shutoff is working properly, you can rule out the tank to the carb as the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 · (Edited)
ok, so i disconnected one end of the governor rod (can't seen to disconnect at the governor without pulling the governor), and finger straightened the rod. not perfect, but better. seemed to run somewhat better. idles down better. probably gonna find both rods and replace as a base.

like before, noticed some "backfire, puffing" noise, esp. at lower throttle. i realize this is a 15+ year old engine with unknown history. do you think it has to do with fuel supply still, or head gasket etc? gonna pull out my 724 and get it running as comparison.

also, gonna need to examine the friction wheel/disc. only now am i able to drive this unit. is powerful forward and reverse, but noticed some stuff, like temporary frozen drive wheel, and stuck in reverse throughout all gear selections.
linkages look fine, but maybe the friction disc/wheel are rough.
replying to my own post regarding the drive issue. i had time to open the belly and take a look. thankfully i had the donor machine to refer to. discovered that a rotating piece that locks into a double forked bracket that is connected to the speed select rod system was easily disengaged (it fell out of the fork easily). that is most likely my issue. turns out the bracket rod that seats behind the fork which the fork attaches to had popped up/out some. i set it back and locked the piece into the shift fork. now it stays locked in place throughout the shift zone. adding some pics to help illustrate.

the friction disc is a little beaten up. might need to replace. the friction wheel is in good condition. is the disc an easy swap out?
 

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The friction disc looks fairly new.

At some point, someone let the friction disc wear down to metal and grind into the drive plate. I see it often. If I were you, I would probably start with a 60 or 80 grit emery cloth, ending up with say 500 grit. In other words, just try to smooth it out some, so you don't quickly destroy the new friction disc.

Changing that drive plate requires some effort, as well as a bit of dismanteling. I have spares for my 10000 series machines, only because I work on them. Keep your eye out for free donors of that era. ......
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
probably wrong, but in my mind i call the metal disc a friction disc and the rubber a friction wheel.

i'll have to jump on youtube to see drive plate replacement procedures. i'll test out the situation the next time i have the blower outside. blowers only get used about 6 times a year here; my concern was unsmooth speed transitions.
 
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