ok, that might be a good clue. it may have been bent up during original removing from donor machine, or maybe it was already bent on the donor machine. what's the best way to get that rod detached/attached from the governor/throttle lever?
The link below your arrows is the one from the throttle plate to the gov arm, and IS straight from what I can see. The one you are pointing to is from the throttle control to the gov, via the spring in the throttle. Bends (if not supposed to be there) can still be a problem, but less so than on the other.
I used the arrows so there wouldn't be confusion, but lets look anyway.The link below your arrows is the one from the throttle plate to the gov arm, and IS straight from what I can see. The one you are pointing to is from the throttle control to the gov, via the spring in the throttle. Bends (if not supposed to be there) can still be a problem, but less so than on the other.
yes, we'll see. when i transferred the donor carb, that surging was also happening. i thought to myself that i doubt both engines have the same issue, it is probably the old carb. but with the new carb (old linkages) the issue remains.It could be the problem however I would not bet money on it. The surging happens on brand new carbs so....... who knows, don't get excited, just replace the governor rod and see, then deal with the carb if so.
replying to my own post regarding the drive issue. i had time to open the belly and take a look. thankfully i had the donor machine to refer to. discovered that a rotating piece that locks into a double forked bracket that is connected to the speed select rod system was easily disengaged (it fell out of the fork easily). that is most likely my issue. turns out the bracket rod that seats behind the fork which the fork attaches to had popped up/out some. i set it back and locked the piece into the shift fork. now it stays locked in place throughout the shift zone. adding some pics to help illustrate.ok, so i disconnected one end of the governor rod (can't seen to disconnect at the governor without pulling the governor), and finger straightened the rod. not perfect, but better. seemed to run somewhat better. idles down better. probably gonna find both rods and replace as a base.
like before, noticed some "backfire, puffing" noise, esp. at lower throttle. i realize this is a 15+ year old engine with unknown history. do you think it has to do with fuel supply still, or head gasket etc? gonna pull out my 724 and get it running as comparison.
also, gonna need to examine the friction wheel/disc. only now am i able to drive this unit. is powerful forward and reverse, but noticed some stuff, like temporary frozen drive wheel, and stuck in reverse throughout all gear selections.
linkages look fine, but maybe the friction disc/wheel are rough.