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Speed gear changes should not be done on the fly.... That should be done using the neutral position.
 

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That drive plate is a mess.
If your donor machine plate is in good condition I would swap it out. If not, try what Oneacer recommends, you need to get it smoother, or you will eat up that new friction disc.
 

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is the disc an easy swap out?
No. The 932 series is an awful trans design and the shift fork will constantly have issues that cause other failures. You can see previous "work" done on the fork reference all the tool marks on the fork end. There should be washers at BOTH ears of the carrier bearing between the fork and carrier ear. If you don't replace those the forks will have slop and grab/torque randomly which causes the forks rod/shifter connection to pop out of the ends of the frame as you've seen. It is very difficult to align and hold together the complete assembly and people frequently just leave the washers out in frustration.
The drive belt idler pulley tensioner spring is out of it's notch in the frame. Previous owner likely had trouble with traction because of this and kept cranking on the drive cable adjustment ramming the friction wheel into the plate, wore it out and went back for more adjustment, now the plate is ruined.
178513


Here's a video showing some of the difficulty working inside this design. It is easier to remove the pinion shaft and gear set as well as the traction clutch spring arm than to work around as done in the video.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Speed gear changes should not be done on the fly.... That should be done using the neutral position.
Yes of course. I was meaning all forward and reverse speeds operate smoothly. A marked up plate might affect that.
No. The 932 series is an awful trans design and the shift fork will constantly have issues that cause other failures. You can see previous "work" done on the fork reference all the tool marks on the fork end. There should be washers at BOTH ears of the carrier bearing between the fork and carrier ear. If you don't replace those the forks will have slop and grab/torque randomly which causes the forks rod/shifter connection to pop out of the ends of the frame as you've seen. It is very difficult to align and hold together the complete assembly and people frequently just leave the washers out in frustration.
The drive belt idler pulley tensioner spring is out of it's notch in the frame. Previous owner likely had trouble with traction because of this and kept cranking on the drive cable adjustment ramming the friction wheel into the plate, wore it out and went back for more adjustment, now the plate is ruined.
View attachment 178513

Here's a video showing some of the difficulty working inside this design. It is easier to remove the pinion shaft and gear set as well as the traction clutch spring arm than to work around as done in the video.
thx for the input and tips. would you like to see any other pics?
 

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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
i'll have to look up what the carrier bearing is and the washer positions. when you say the 932 tranny is an awful design,
is it just because of the shift fork? i'll have to look at my 2005 724 932 blower to compare designs. it has been going for years with issues like you mention.

are there "best" design models in your opinion?
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
That drive plate is a mess.
If your donor machine plate is in good condition I would swap it out. If not, try what Oneacer recommends, you need to get it smoother, or you will eat up that new friction disc.
i think the donor machine plate is really worn down. i'll shoot some pics later.
 

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The 924 series is much better, IMO. There is always someone that has a machine that never had a problem. It's 56 years old. On it's original oil, bearings, tires and has 3/4" impeller gap yet starts on one pull and throws snow 76 feet against the wind. Pick a brand, someone out there has the perfect one.
The 932 series I get in for repair consistently have drive issues and the system is overly complicated and crowded to achieve motion, again IMO.
 

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I did not know you had a spare in a donor unit.

I would still clean up the one in there now, and keep an eye on it. Take the other out of the donor at your leisure, and then you'll know what is involved with changing one out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 · (Edited)
another update: git outside, fuel system is doing better. had mostly straightened the governor rod (have one on order), and it hunts less. initially the drive system was OK, then i lost reverse, and single forward speed. checked the belly, and sure enough the fork control rod had popped out of the black cup seat (bushing?), rendering shifting useless. the shifting action popped it out. this may have been a main reason for the dump discard. doesn't look like a big deal, but not sure about accessing way back there, and whether it is just a new black cup, or i need to replace that rod section. i went over to the donor, and saw that they had run into the same issue. they used some wire to tie down the rod black down to prevent to from lifting out. i'd much farther do a proper repair. anybody do this repair in the past?

here re two pics. the first is my machine, the second the donor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 · (Edited)
jumped on e-replacements. learned some new terms, like speed fork and shift carrier! anyway, looks like the flange bushing is bad. there are two, top and bottom, will try to order them locally. sad if a $4 part made someone throw it away.
 

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If you do not replace the washers (#11 in diagram) the fork will continually bind and pull out of the ends. The general assembly counts on several different points to be in sync, much more involved than a traditional swing plate drive assembly. Owners don't do maintenance until something doesn't work. If something sticks/binds they or a sausage fingered neighbor force the shift lever and things get bent, shift forks pop out, washers fall out. If the fork has been "adjusted" by a previous owner it may never line up again (tool marks on forks). You'll notice the shifter arm at the dash and rod down to the fork provide much more leverage than the speed fork mounting tabs can resist if bound up for some reason.
Check to see if your pinion gear set is free to rotate on the pinion shaft. It's supposed to, and why it has a grease zerk on the end behind your left tire. Make sure the right side of the pinion shaft hasn't ovaled out the frame behind the right tire. Previous bending/prying/adjusting can cause probs. Especially if the frame tabs the fork shaft ends sit in have been "custom" bent (where #5 and 7 sit). You can also have a worn friction plate shaft bushing and there's another carrier bearing assembly behind the plate and another fork hiding deep in there (#22,23,26,27).
If you can get past this guy patting himself on the back in the video, there is some good video to see possible damage to other parts.
178522

178523

 

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Discussion Starter · #113 ·
If you do not replace the washers (#11 in diagram) the fork will continually bind and pull out of the ends. The general assembly counts on several different points to be in sync, much more involved than a traditional swing plate drive assembly. Owners don't do maintenance until something doesn't work. If something sticks/binds they or a sausage fingered neighbor force the shift lever and things get bent, shift forks pop out, washers fall out. If the fork has been "adjusted" by a previous owner it may never line up again (tool marks on forks). You'll notice the shifter arm at the dash and rod down to the fork provide much more leverage than the speed fork mounting tabs can resist if bound up for some reason.
Check to see if your pinion gear set is free to rotate on the pinion shaft. It's supposed to, and why it has a grease zerk on the end behind your left tire. Make sure the right side of the pinion shaft hasn't ovaled out the frame behind the right tire. Previous bending/prying/adjusting can cause probs. Especially if the frame tabs the fork shaft ends sit in have been "custom" bent (where #5 and 7 sit). You can also have a worn friction plate shaft bushing and there's another carrier bearing assembly behind the plate and another fork hiding deep in there (#22,23,26,27).
If you can get past this guy patting himself on the back in the video, there is some good video to see possible damage to other parts.
View attachment 178522
View attachment 178523
first, thank you for taking the time and interest in assisting.

that is a large, unfamiliar checklist for me. let me starter:

picked up upper and lower bushings ($8 total). spent way too much time trying to replace the lower bushing (an impossible job really; had to shave it down to press into the hole (#5 in diagram). and yes, the rod remained too loose during shifting and the same problem remained. i re-examined the donor, and realized that is why the shift rod bracket was wired the way it was. now that observation makes sense.

on both machines, there are no washers on the carrier. i'm assuming the washers go on the shaft carrier tubes that fit into the speed forks (in-between the carrier and fork, so adding tension?). i have to see what size washer is used, hopefully something out of my washer collection.

good news, after wiring up my shift rod like the donor, it drove through all gears (reverse and forward) fairly normally.
hopefully all i need are two washers to finish this problem.

here is mine wired up:
 

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I have a drawer of just washers ... before I discard anything, I strip off all bolts nuts, washers, etc. ... Also whenever I but washers over the years, I would always but extra.... LOL, gives me my own hardware store for those items, instead of running to the store in the middle of a project.

P.S. ... I just saw your above photo of the mechanics wire all wrapped up ... many uses for that stuff ... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
ok, picked up two 1"/.5" washers at the local hardware for $1. for the first timer, this is a PITA repair. very hard to get both washers set in to the fork. after that finally happened, realized that the rod was not in the bottom bushing! after lots of unsuccessful attempts, decided i needed to thread a wire behind the the rod and use pliers to lever it forward over the bushing seat. that did the trick! everything is holding together so far. haven't started it to test just yet, need a little me time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 · (Edited)
took it for a spin. starts up on first or second pull (have to remember turn on the new fuel valve!). went through all the speeds successfully (without the support wire). still a little bit of muffler puffing. idles better. governor is not seeking like it had been. i think you are supposed throttle down slowly to shut off, rather than rapidly, to help prevent backfiring.

NOW, i want to free up the one auger rake. probably have to buy a propane or MAP gas kit. i think this rake is just stuck with old dried grease. after that, i can install the bucket stuff!
 

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If it is rusted on, it may require an acelylene torch, it quite a bit of patience and PB Blaster
Otherwise, a propane torch should be plenty to soften old grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #119 · (Edited)
ok, finally got the time to run the auger over to the local welding shop. been in business many years, builds metal sculptures, etc. told him what was up. he said don't waste your money. keep pumping grease in and put it in the hot sun for the summer. if it doesn't free up, run it without the shear pin (earlier i mentioned in another thread that a shop suggested no pin as well). he says he hates pins. he welded his augers on, no more pins! so, I'm a little confused. 2-0 the score for leaving the pin out and running it that way.

what say the experts here?
 
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