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Snow Blower season at the town dump!

13K views 136 replies 18 participants last post by  tabora 
#1 · (Edited)
it has started. between two trips today, someone had dropped off a possibly very nice 824 (932100) unit. by the time i got to it the buzzards had already visited! would have been nice to get it complete. that said, i had to take the remainders home. still lots of meat on the bones. comments?
 
#68 · (Edited)
No, the black cover is covering the low speed jet. You can pull that out and spray some carb cleaner in and use a welding tip cleaner in the carb hole and the jet, it may run better. That may solve the surging. Surging is a low speed problem, that may be good, if not then you'll have to remove the Welch plug.

An adjustable carb has 2 adjustments, 1 on the side and one at the bowl. Both will have springs.
 
#72 ·
That is correct, the screw is not an adjustment, the screw is for removal of the jet. It needs to be screwed all the way in but not terribly tight, just in, that's it.
 
#70 · (Edited)
also, i'm looking at the "original" carb. it has an etched serial number and some various stamped numbers. i would guess it is original. it has a single bolt bottom (no springs), and a top adjustable screw with a spring, and a lower screw without spring, just like the replacement.
 
#74 ·
also, i'm looking at the "original" carb. it has an etched serial number and some various stamped numbers. i would guess it is original. it has a single bolt bottom (no strings), and a top adjustable screw with a spring, and a lower screw without spring, just like the replacement.
The screw at the top with the spring is the idle adjustment, there is no spring on the jet, that's the one with the black cap.
 
#83 ·
The gov linkage here should be a straight run from gov arm to the throttle arm. The kinks are effectively changing the factory setting of the governor and no new carb can fix the resulting hunting.

View attachment 178463
ok, that might be a good clue. it may have been bent up during original removing from donor machine, or maybe it was already bent on the donor machine. what's the best way to get that rod detached/attached from the governor/throttle lever?
 
#82 ·
looked up OE replacement carb on e-replacement site. 390 degree view shows it is built the same as old one i took off and new aftermarket. idle spring screw, black cap, and single non-spring bottom bolt. so, i'm still trying to understand what would be available, or necessity of, an "adjustable" carb if the OE is not.

*part number 50-659
Manufacturer: Briggs and Stratton, Toro, Tecumseh, MTD
 
#84 ·
Remove the throttle bracket from the blower housing. Tilt it out of the z-bend. People try to bend them out with needle nose or route them wrong to begin with (under fuel line) and force the throttle lever. The part is like $2 for OEM if you want to replace over summer. Sometimes they get fatigued from too many "adjustments." Your other carb in pic is probably fine, the bowl is not on correctly , but may just be finger tight for reference in pic?
PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment
 
#89 ·
It could be the problem however I would not bet money on it. The surging happens on brand new carbs so....... who knows, don't get excited, just replace the governor rod and see, then deal with the carb if so.
 
#90 ·
yes, we'll see. when i transferred the donor carb, that surging was also happening. i thought to myself that i doubt both engines have the same issue, it is probably the old carb. but with the new carb (old linkages) the issue remains.

hopefully my local dealer has the linkage rod. don't feel like ordering it and paying shipping.

and after installing an unbent governor rod, the governor will be pushed back significantly and bring the throttle with it. hopefully calming everything down.
 
#91 ·
ok, so i disconnected one end of the governor rod (can't seen to disconnect at the governor without pulling the governor), and finger straightened the rod. not perfect, but better. seemed to run somewhat better. idles down better. probably gonna find both rods and replace as a base.

like before, noticed some "backfire, puffing" noise, esp. at lower throttle. i realize this is a 15+ year old engine with unknown history. do you think it has to do with fuel supply still, or head gasket etc? gonna pull out my 724 and get it running as comparison.

also, gonna need to examine the friction wheel/disc. only now am i able to drive this unit. is powerful forward and reverse, but noticed some stuff, like temporary frozen drive wheel, and stuck in reverse throughout all gear selections.
linkages look fine, but maybe the friction disc/wheel are rough.
 
#98 · (Edited)
ok, so i disconnected one end of the governor rod (can't seen to disconnect at the governor without pulling the governor), and finger straightened the rod. not perfect, but better. seemed to run somewhat better. idles down better. probably gonna find both rods and replace as a base.

like before, noticed some "backfire, puffing" noise, esp. at lower throttle. i realize this is a 15+ year old engine with unknown history. do you think it has to do with fuel supply still, or head gasket etc? gonna pull out my 724 and get it running as comparison.

also, gonna need to examine the friction wheel/disc. only now am i able to drive this unit. is powerful forward and reverse, but noticed some stuff, like temporary frozen drive wheel, and stuck in reverse throughout all gear selections.
linkages look fine, but maybe the friction disc/wheel are rough.
replying to my own post regarding the drive issue. i had time to open the belly and take a look. thankfully i had the donor machine to refer to. discovered that a rotating piece that locks into a double forked bracket that is connected to the speed select rod system was easily disengaged (it fell out of the fork easily). that is most likely my issue. turns out the bracket rod that seats behind the fork which the fork attaches to had popped up/out some. i set it back and locked the piece into the shift fork. now it stays locked in place throughout the shift zone. adding some pics to help illustrate.

the friction disc is a little beaten up. might need to replace. the friction wheel is in good condition. is the disc an easy swap out?
 

Attachments

#92 ·
If you are not sure of the gasoline, drain the tank, drain the carb, your new fuel should be absolutely bought today from a name brand station in an empty can. I tell people, put your gas in a clear 2L soda bottle, it should be clear, not cloudy, not golden, and no water in the bottom, them use it.

Old machine, you may want to check the valve clearance. Watch a YouTube.
 
#99 ·
The friction disc looks fairly new.

At some point, someone let the friction disc wear down to metal and grind into the drive plate. I see it often. If I were you, I would probably start with a 60 or 80 grit emery cloth, ending up with say 500 grit. In other words, just try to smooth it out some, so you don't quickly destroy the new friction disc.

Changing that drive plate requires some effort, as well as a bit of dismanteling. I have spares for my 10000 series machines, only because I work on them. Keep your eye out for free donors of that era. ......
 
#100 ·
probably wrong, but in my mind i call the metal disc a friction disc and the rubber a friction wheel.

i'll have to jump on youtube to see drive plate replacement procedures. i'll test out the situation the next time i have the blower outside. blowers only get used about 6 times a year here; my concern was unsmooth speed transitions.
 
#104 ·
Yes of course. I was meaning all forward and reverse speeds operate smoothly. A marked up plate might affect that.
No. The 932 series is an awful trans design and the shift fork will constantly have issues that cause other failures. You can see previous "work" done on the fork reference all the tool marks on the fork end. There should be washers at BOTH ears of the carrier bearing between the fork and carrier ear. If you don't replace those the forks will have slop and grab/torque randomly which causes the forks rod/shifter connection to pop out of the ends of the frame as you've seen. It is very difficult to align and hold together the complete assembly and people frequently just leave the washers out in frustration.
The drive belt idler pulley tensioner spring is out of it's notch in the frame. Previous owner likely had trouble with traction because of this and kept cranking on the drive cable adjustment ramming the friction wheel into the plate, wore it out and went back for more adjustment, now the plate is ruined.
View attachment 178513

Here's a video showing some of the difficulty working inside this design. It is easier to remove the pinion shaft and gear set as well as the traction clutch spring arm than to work around as done in the video.
thx for the input and tips. would you like to see any other pics?
 
#102 ·
That drive plate is a mess.
If your donor machine plate is in good condition I would swap it out. If not, try what Oneacer recommends, you need to get it smoother, or you will eat up that new friction disc.
 
#105 ·
i'll have to look up what the carrier bearing is and the washer positions. when you say the 932 tranny is an awful design,
is it just because of the shift fork? i'll have to look at my 2005 724 932 blower to compare designs. it has been going for years with issues like you mention.

are there "best" design models in your opinion?
 
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