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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
speak softly, but carry a Drift Breaker 10/32 3-stage

some older fella who is retired, doesn't want to manhandle an old Craftsman Drift Breaker 10/32 w/14" impeller anymore...he's had it for 20 years, and inherited it from his father in law decades ago...
he sold it to me today for $75
3 stage and dual headlights/grill on it
holy Tecumsehs, Batman...that's a monster of a machine. lots of cables too.
I put 'er on the side until I finish the AMF Dynamark...
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I'll try to get some pics tomorrow if I don't forget the camera again, these 3 stage machines are all at another location.

it's not a gear drive, it's a friction drive machine. I wish it was a gear drive....

ironically, the $150 from the Craftsman Track Drive 5HP machine sale, funded the purchase of three old 3-stage machines. they're reproducing like tribbles out there....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
everyone should own at least one Drift Breaker in their lifetime....:D
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I bring these machines home now with a small compact Saturn station wagon, put the back seat down, lay down cardboard, remove the handlebars from machine, turn snow spout down all the way, and remove gas cap. the machine then just goes in under the 29" high compartment, when it gets to the gas tank we just tip the machine a bit to clear, then in it goes back wheels first. saves a lot of gas driving to get them over the Ford truck, and actually easier to load being it's not as high up to lift into the car.

haven't put the handlebars on yet or even tried to start it, it does turn over with good compression.

the engine serial number starts with an 8, making it a 1978 machine.



 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
this is kind of strange....started out wanting just ONE of these old 3 stage machines with the headlights and biggest 10HP engine. looked far/wide and found a few for sale but big money $250 and up, plus another $250 to have them shipped in. no thanky...

so I settled for the 8/26 Dynamark Luminaire for $50, next best thing to the Craftsman Driftbreaker 10/32, in my mind...but it needed the pawl springs/wheel locks setup. So I bought the AMF Polar Bear 7/26 with a stuck motor for $50 just to get the wheel stuff.

then a week later (yesterday) a guy calls me up with a bona fide 10/32 DB w/lights for only $75

now I gots 2 of 'em, plus a parts machine to boot, but not intentionally, that's just the way it worked out.

good thing I sold that Craftman 5/24 track drive for $150 when I did....guess I could always sell one of these....


 

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Discussion Starter #10
I had a few minutes to spare today and scratched the surface on this 10/32 DB.

3 of the 4 control cables, except for chute angle cable, were seized.
the choke wire rod was seized wide open, PB Blaster got that loose
the throttle cable was seized wide open, that had to be removed from the carb, and moved back/forth with channel locks and PB blaster in the end holes, and that came loose.
the chute cable was beginning to get stuck. some PB blaster on the end pivots of the chute area and cable got that freed up.
even the key was hard to put in. that got PB as well.
this obviously hasn't been run in a few years, but it was stored inside fortunately.
there's only one left to get un-stuck, that's the idler pulley clutch cable. will try that one tomorrow.
the Tec. HM100 10HP engine had a Champion RJ19LM plug in it, that's usually a good sign. removed the plug, check for spark, YES IT HAS SPARK.
I opened the choke, sprayed it with starter fluid, closed the choke, IT STARTED WITH ONE PULL and ran until the starter fluid was gone.
no smoke.
very good prelim check.
the code on the HM100 says this is a 1978
also noticed, primer bulb feed hose is broken off the carb, and the fuel line from the tank was all twisted like a pretzel and dry cracked. this one is going to need some fuel lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
if mine runs this good I'll be a happy camper.

 

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Discussion Starter #12
maybe add an impeller kit....but they work pretty good in stock form

 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am envious.
Sid
actually I was just kind of lucky...been looking for one of these since last Feb. and one finally surfaced here locally
it was a diligent search !
 

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Discussion Starter #15
this one is almost done. the carb sings now. it was that pesky idle circuit all along. the steel stick epoxy patched it good. I let it sit overnight and started it today, started on 2nd pull. that's sitting outside in 20 degree weather uncovered, not in a heated garage. was able to take it off choke in about 1 minute, and shortly thereafter it cold take WOT and no smoke. sounds really good. I put the carb airbox cover and bottom cover back on. the smoke is GONE. must have had stuck rings that came loose after running it. today I bought a headlight for it at Advance Auto.

headlights are HIGH DOLLAR ! $12 each now at Advance, and on Ebay. At Tractor Supply they are $19 each. Tru-Value has them $20/pair but they are plastic lenses, not glass.

no way I'm paying $20 for a headlight, for a machine I paid $50 for ! :rolleyes:
 

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Blowers

You asked if anyone had ever had units like yours, well somewhat. I still have one and sold another that are slightly newer than yours.
One I ended up rebuilding and swapping the bucket on with a smaller 2 stage so it would fit through the garage door
https://s3-us-west-

This one I rebuilt, did some modifications to and ultimately sold



Here's the reason I like these, the transmission in the drivetrain


Built like a tank and ready for most everything. 14" impeller and hungry as a horse.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
You asked if anyone had ever had units like yours, well somewhat. I still have one and sold another that are slightly newer than yours.
One I ended up rebuilding and swapping the bucket on with a smaller 2 stage so it would fit through the garage door


you have quite a photobucket ! & obviously have turned a lot of wrench on those.
nice machines, I'm aware of what you have, because in my past research your threads came up, and I read them. I refer to your threads on several occasions, they have been informative. that was a good mod to downsize the chute on that one you have. it looks like you specialize in the Craftsman marque.
those small chute 10HP machines must rip.
I'm aware of the gear drive transmission type machines and have 2 of them, but no AMF Dynamark Craftsmans w/gear drive (yet). My gear drive machines are a Yardman Snowbird 7040-0 and Gilson 55012. I have looked at a Craftsman 5/22 gear drive machine, but passed on it because it was $100, lower powered, had solid tires, and was only 2 stage. I may revisit that machine with intentions of repowering it, with a NOS HM-80 Tecumseh engine recently acquired, and a 3-stage bucket from a Polar Bear- but that's just a pipe dream at the moment.

My interest had moved to vintage 3 stage, dual auger machines. those are a little more scarce than 2 stage, but still not what I'd consider "rare". Proof being in 2 weeks, I found/bought 4 of them for $50-$75 each with little effort, other than a net search. Entry level power/weight balance with these old machines seems to be 8HP, and preferably 10HP to compete favorably with what's available new in the stores, and to haul the extra weight around, and turn the heavy old impellers, augers, shafts.

just to set the record straight here though- nowhere in this thread or any other thread, did I ask if anyone else had units like mine ? only in reference to parts.I already know, many do have them.
pre-1980 snowblowers are neat, and I'm a proponent of vintage USA made machinery...getting them running, salvaging them...the challenge of reclaiming a terminal junkyard machine, selling cheap at scrap value, the owner saying "if no buyers, it's getting scrapped..." an old hot rodder friend said it best, I reference to the trend to pay others to restore their cars- he said "let's face it, doing it yourself is half the fun"

just owning them alone, that would be like having 5 common Chevrolets and thinking I had something special. I know better. these appear as common as dirt, at least for now. I'm surprised at how rare they aren't. they were made by the 100's of thousands or millions, some of those factories ran 24/7, 3 shifts around the clock, so there are many out there. from the large number hitting the market now for sale, obvious there's a lot of them around.

having the persistence to take a basket case like the Gilson 55012, or Cadet 268 I have, and repair the extreme amount of disrepair, damage, wear, and abuse the machines sustained in the past 40 years, and not spend too much money, or fall victim to over-restore/cosmeticize, now that is a challenge of sorts. there is the temptation to over-pay for a vintage machine too, just to obtain it. I'm pretty sure that's a mistake- in today's market. that may change in the future as more of these are scrapped out. in the old car hobby, there's a phenom, junkyards scrapping and crushing them still today in my area, when they are collectible ! makes no sense- do these yard owners have brain damage ?

but still nothing compared to taking a diesel engine out of a tractor trailer and rebuilding it, and putting back in. or restoring a car with a body off restoration. I've done a lot of that work in my lifetime, so these snowblowers are like playing with matchboxes in comparison. they are easier and actually a form of relaxation for me. don't need a big garage lift, 3 ton jack, 5HP air compressor, air tools, tire machine, engine hoist, etc. to work on a snowblower.

to keep perspective. the machines being generally small, are easy to repair compared to other machines.

what I DID ask in my other Dynamark Luminaire thread, was if anyone had AMF locking axle pawls and pawl springs for sale as spares ? ended up buying (2) more Polar Bears, just to get those spare parts. The Luminaire was undriveable without the pawls, or changing it to locked axle. the early AMF's are unique in that respect, the later Craftsmans do not have that type of wheel locks.

I also mentioned the scrap Craftsman Dynamark, in respect to what parts should I pull from the junk machine on a scrap pile, that may be worth keeping for the 10/32-14". what are the hard to find wearing parts.
as a sidenote....the hobby we're in, most people would call junk collecting. to me, it's a form of archeology- our country is being de-industrialized, they don't make them like this anymore, and maybe we can save a couple for our grandkids to enjoy and use some day. IMO it's odd people are mesmerized by media and advertising, they don't realize it. they've been hypnotized and brainwashed into not caring, if everything they buy is made in China. like there's nothing wrong with that. Steven King couldn't make this stuff up, it's truth stranger than fiction.

ps- we call them "gear drives" but in reality, they are not, that is a half-truth, the machines have belts acting as a clutching mechanism, then power is passed to a gearbox. a true "gear drive" would be something along the line of a hydrostatic Gilson tractor, there's not a single belt on that entire machine, the guys who tinker with those call them "driveshaft machines" because there is no belts. but even those are hydro synched, i.e. the trans fluid acts as the clutch.

a real gear drive, would have a clutch like a car or truck, with a flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disc, and a transmission with gears.

did they ever make such a beast in a snowblower ?

perhaps...maybe not, but who knows ? a guy called me with a Homco for sale, said it was made in the 1930's or 40's, has a 4 cyl engine, and it's a single stage, but huge. one of these days I have to go up there and check it out. He wants $300 obo for it. to find mystery in this hobby, one has to dig back and find very old machines we know nothing about, i.e. pre-1960 machines.
 

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Parts

Here's some suggestions on parts to save, if the ones you have are like the ones I've worked on.
Clamshells for the bushings. You can upgrade units with the plastic ones to the bronze ones if you have the clamshells, which are now MIA.
If it's got a control cable that's sleeved with the loop on one end and a S hook on the other. Those are also MIA. There's some options but it's pricey.
If there are good pneumatic tires, save them if they bolt to the axel, they can be used on alot of machines.
Even the hand controls for the drive can be of use.
Motor obviously.
Pulleys for the auger unit and drive, shoot just save the whole auger assembly if you can.
The chute if it has the cable control for the tip, it and the controls can be swapped onto other units and upgrade them.
Save the skid pan if there's one, the tractor units on alot of them interchange.
Friction disc if it's in good shape. Another MIA item though a Toro one can be modified to work but it's extra time and cost to do it.

That's all I can think of at the moment.

Hope that helps

Paul

PS the Tecumseh transmission that's in some of the newer units were used in everything from 4 hp blowers to 20+ hp walk behind tractors and bigger garden tractors. Other than some having axel shafts on them for the tractors, the other ones with the chain drive pretty much all interchange physically. Big thing is the number of gears but I've taken a 7 hp unit and put it into a 10 hp and looked at using a 5 hp for a 7 hp blower and they bolt up just fine.
Biggest issue is if the intermediate shaft on them comes loose, the shaft and gearbox can drop and jam the chain. Hit it hard enough and it break off the area the mounting bolts go. Even that's ok as I came up with a repair plate that works and have used it on a couple of otherwise junk units to put them back into service.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
wow, thanks ! great info.
I did some more digging today on this 10/32 and have my work cut out for me.

the carb was the most gunked up Tec. carb I've seen that was still bolted to a snowblower- period. this one takes the cake. it was covered with clear green sludge inside that was sticky like elmers glue. the float/needle were so stuck, I had to pry them down on the float hinge pin with a big screwdriver. the hinge pin was rusted and had to be tapped out with a tiny drift and hammer ! all the ports in the bowl nut/jet were blocked solid with black/green sludge. the carb mounting bolts were so seized, I had to use a big Phillips screwdriver clamped with vise grips, to get enough leverage to just crack the bolts loose. at first the entire nut/bolt turned.

looking underneath, I saw something major that in my haste to load up the machine (in the rain outside that day) I had overlooked. initially it had looked like a minor connection problem, that something had just come loose and could easily be re-attached- but this was a bad one to miss....

the friction disk backing retainer, that the friction disk bolts to, has a snap ring and groove on the left side, that holds a throwout type bearing on it, to move it back/forth and get the various gears, as the gear shift is moved. the snap ring broke off a small ring of metal from the retainer, and both of those pieces and the throwout bearing are moving freely on the cross shaft- no longer connected to the gearshift linkage. there's no way to shift this machine, the friction disk setup is broken.

I either have to get that welded and file/machine a new retaining ring groove in it, or replace it.

wondering if that 5/22-10 machine I left on the scrap pile has the same setup ?

anyone have a Craftsman friction disc retainer ? it's the type with only 4 bolts holding the rubber disc on, I believe...will get pics tomorrow

it's called "casting retainer" part number 36601
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
got it growlin' today

got this 10/32 DB back together today and it's running. cleaned spark plug, changed oil to Amsoil, added a fuel shutoff and new filter. oiled the 3rd stage auger chain, and adjusted the chain tightness. both this and the Luminaire have a square wedge that goes under the 3rd stage auger ends, with a slot, to lift it up and tighten up the chain. lifted the steel wheels for max height, the auger/impeller working nicely very quiet, and carb idling. drove it up and down the driveway and it drives good. this machine is BIG. bordering on too big, this is the largest size blower I'd ever want to use on a driveway or around the house. anything bigger than this would be for a parking lot or playing field, really. it's like driving a lawn tractor around.

carb on this one is harder to take off/install. the way the governor linkage is, the governor arm must come off, and it has a more complicated choke linkage and control. a couple head bolts needed to be torqued, and the pullstart cover is missing the 2 bottom bolts. so I've got still more busywork to do. the belts, auger/drive wheel engagement idlers, cables all work perfectly and thank the Lord for that. if all that needed to be replaced don't know if I'd want the machine ! it is a lot more complex than the older simple machines, and there's more that can break on this.

I can tell the engine has more cc's too. it makes power like a big block V8 does in a car, i.e. it doesn't have to turn a high rpm to make things happen.

still have some little odds and ends to do- air up the tires, tighten the tire chains, connect a killswitch to the handlebars. the killswitch on the carb plate that works with the throttle linkage is broken. probably just put a toggle up on the handlebars. I can still shut if off with the key but no way to shut it off fast from the handlebars.

one thing missing from both these headlight machines I have, is a headlight switch. the lights stay on when running. I'd like to turn them off in daylight to save the bulb life. so that would be another toggle switch to add.

used PB blaster, then WD40 on all the cables, and was able to salvage them. they all work. when I got the machine they were all seized but one.

still have to clean the friction disc/platter, fill the auger gear box with new oil, and put the bottom covers on, and a pesky broken shear pin in the auger shaft to remove....stay tuned.
 
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