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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
E350's ST1032 924084

* This thread was initially titled "ST1032 vs ST1136" but since I ended up purchasing the ST1032 924084 model, the thread will be focused on the maintenance, repair and possible rebuild of the ST1032. So, the title has been revised to match the thread's future focus.

Mary Lyn and others: I have a small cabin in the woods off of Highway 50 in the Tahoe area. When it snows, it dumps. Up to two or three feet a night at times. My family and I only use the cabin on the weekends, so we may arrive to find 2-3 feet of new snow on the dirt uneven driveway from the garage to the highway and a four foot sun crusted berm at EOD courtesy of CalTans at the highway.

Due to our recent low snow Winter, people in the Tahoe/Reno area are selling their snowblowers apparently believing that it will never snow like that again. So prices are way down.

Both are older models. Assuming both are in the same condition (or can be brought up to the same condition for a reasonable price - I am fairly handy) which would be better for my use, etc.? Or other suggestions?
 

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Based only on 1032 and 1136, there isnt a practical difference between them.

1032 = 10hp and 32" bucket.
1136 = 11hp and 36" bucket.

more important than that is age and condition..
when comparing the two, and deciding which to get, I would consider them essentially equal as to power and scoop width..then base your decision only on age and condition.

If you could get the actual model numbers, that would tell us a lot more.
probably both are 924xxx models, and the model number will be on a tag at the rear of the machine, between the wheels.

Scot
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sscotsman: Thank you for your reply. I have asked for and am awaiting the model numbers of each of them. The links to their craigslist ads are in the initial post. The ST1032 appears to be in better condition but I have not viewed either yet. I am trying to arrange that.

If you believe another make or model would be more appropriate for my described use (for instance I wondered about the now discontinued Craftsman track machines), please feel free to make suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I have corresponded with the owners of both the ST1136 and the ST1032 and between the two the 1032 would be better for me and is in better shape.

I also have an opportunity to buy a Honda HS828 for the same price. So if you have time let me know your thoughts:

http://reno.craigslist.org/tls/4994373611.html

If Mary Lyn or others know, will the Ariens Track Conversion kit work on the ST1032?

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The Ariens ST1032 is:

Model #: 924084
Serial #: 000892

I think at this point, I have ruled out the ST1136 so am considering the Honda HS828 (second in line for that one) and the Ariens 1032 above.

Any thoughts?
 

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Holy cow..i havent seen one of those hondas for sale in my neck of the woods that age for anything less than 1200. If it was me i would buy it just to flip and keep the bigger 1032.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
You silly Canadians! Don't you know that it is never going to snow again in Truckee, CA (the other "CA") and that the insulation mapmakers will have to move it from its current designation which is in same zone as Montana, N. Dakota, Michigan, Wisconsin, Vermont, to a designation shared by say, Belize?

But wait just one minute! There is some other guy who apparently believes what the US East Coast has learned during the past three Winters, that California has been shielded by an unusual high pressure ridge which will not last for decades but Winter will, in fact, come again to Truckee on the North side of L. Tahoe and to Echo Summit on its South.

So, the Honda HS828 sold just minutes ago to some other climate change deny-er.

Wait just one more minute. Forget about the high pressure ridge theory, come to think of it when our current governor was our governor in the late '70's, there was also a five year drought. Since correlation is causation for climate change advocates, I will pose the theory that climate change is caused by governor moon beam.

But just in case correlation is not causation, and Winter will in fact come again, I am hoping for a call from the ST1032 seller to head up with a trailer to Truckee early tomorrow morning.

I will let you know how it turns out and hopefully to post pictures.

Thanks for all your help both here and in PMs.

BTW, the next cheapest used HS828 on craigslist is $800. Dang, again...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Now its my turn to say "Holy cow!"

"Shame" is an appropriate word for the deal I missed. "Foolish" will be another if after using the 6x6 to winch the 35 Ton logsplitter into the back of my 1950's Dodge pickup bed trailer, I hear back from the other seller to find out the ST1032 is sold also.

Hopefully he just has more of a nightlife than my wife and I do and I will be heading up in the morning to drop the splitter and then over to pick up the ST1032. So, since you apparently are close to Him, how 'bout some of dem prayers der?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Picked up the Ariens ST1032 Model #: 924084 Serial #: 000892 yesterday. It is a quality machine. Appears to have been only lightly used. Paint is near perfect. Well mantained, clean oil, fuel line replaced, no rust, no electric start, pull start only, starts right up with choke. It only has two forward speeds rabbit and tortoise and the same in reverse. He sold it to me for $250. I am really happy with the purchase. Not because I think it was the right purchase, but because I think it was a cheap lessen on my journey learning about what is likely appropriate and not appropriate for my particular use, and I can likely sell the machine for more than I paid for it at the beginning of Winter.

So, this is what my initial impressions are. Please make comments/suggestions. You guys have a lot of knowledge and experience and I am just learning about these machines.

My use: My driveway is 16 feet of 1929 concrete containing raised granite nubs for traction, then turning to forest floor dirt (former duff) for a 150' down a slight grade to the hwy. At ~6,800 ft. elev. Western side of the California Sierras. We had 9-12 inches of fresh snow just two days before which yesterday afternoon turned to 6-8 inches of slush to try out the machine. Things I have learned:

1. Two of these Tractor Supply Co. ramps put together are great!

Reese® Farm & Ranch Extra Wide 24 in. X 84 in. Utility Ramp, 900 lb. - Tractor Supply Co.

2. Likely could install a "Clarence Kit" to reduce the 3/8" clearance between the impeller and the impeller housing to increase throw distance.

3. Learned that now that I have a snowblower, I will need to preclean the driveway at the beginning of the season. Didn't break a sheer pin but got a branch stuck and then a 3" piece of granite lodged at the intersection betwen the auger and the impeller. No damage, but learned something.

4. My driveway slope appears to be too steep for a wheeled machine. This machine apparently has a differential, because when heading up slope, it would constantly lose traction with one wheel spinning and the other not moving. Or it would not lose traction, but the wheels would dig a rut into the dirt. So, questions:

a. Would chains make a difference?
b. Will it likely perform better in colder conditions (i.e., not slush)?
c. Since the wheels can have enough traction to dig a dirt rut, is it likely that the friction disk is ok? Or should I replace the friction disk prior to next Winter because of the age of the machine and the disk is a likely wear item and I won't know the true capability of the machine without replacing it?
d. Would a track machine (such as a Honda HS828 or a Ariens on which a track converter kit can be installed) be more appropriate for my use?
Anyway guys. My motto in life is "Learning slowly." Thanks for all your help!
 

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The left wheel should have a lock for the differential.

You can remove the bottom cover and look under there and see the condition of the friction disc and then take it from there. If it looks good I wouldn't bother.

If you hit things and didn't brake any shear pins, I would take the pins out and make sure the augers are not rusted to the shaft. The should spin freely with the pins removed.

Any snow blower is going to perform terrible with slush.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Thanks Shryp. Understood and will do. Is there a grease or other lube I should put on the auger shaft? This is the slickest stuff I have ever found:

24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz.




And I highly recommend it for brake caliper slide pins. So, if there are not other recommendations, I will just use it.

My guess is that I should remove the augers from the shaft, lube and replace and make sure that sheer pins were used instead of bolts.
 

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Thanks Shryp. Understood and will do. Is there a grease or other lube I should put on the auger shaft?
Any old grease from any old grease gun.

I say "grease gun" since there should be zerk fittings on the augers for this very purpose. No need to take anything apart!

That's of course assuming the augers aren't currently stuck on the shaft. I had to deal with that recently on a 1032 and did NOT enjoy it.

Edit: the above of course is in reference to where the augers sit on the shaft and not where the shaft runs in its bushings. For the bushings I'd use wheel bearing grease or something similar. Brake caliper grease is not really the right product - it's not meant for things that move continuously and has a lot of high-temp additives that are not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks ELaw: I am excited to prepare for Winter (hopefully we will lose the high pressure ridge and actually have precipitation to go with the cold this next Winter). So am looking forward to learning about and preparing the new-to-me Ariens ST1032. I actually don't have a good zerk fitting grease gun. The ones I have had in the past were a little too winky to work right without leaking.

I also have a 6x6 Ranger and a used (likely too narrow) Snow Hawg ATV snowblower which I need to fabricate a push "stinger" for and buy tire chains for the Ranger. The ones at tirechains.com are $96 a pair so at three pairs of wheels on a 6x6, that is ... Hmmm. Maybe I'll start with only the front and rear wheels.
 

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The ones at tirechains.com are $96 a pair so at three pairs of wheels on a 6x6, that is ... Hmmm. Maybe I'll start with only the front and rear wheels.
I read somewhere at another thread that you can "make" your own chains and it will cost you 1/2 the price or less, it may perhaps be worth to research.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
hsblowersfan: 10-4 on that. And many years ago I bought the chain making tool (kinda a combo bolt cutter/crimper thing) from tirechain.com because I thought I that I would use some of my partly worn vehicle chains to remake and reuse chains. But I have only used it to shorten chains (which I could have just used a chop saw to do anyway).

But here's my current thinking based upon reading I have done on this forum and the help from you guys.

1. I am going to investigate whether or not there is a differential lock on one of the Ariens ST1032 hubs. If so I am going to try to use it with differential locked without chains. That way I will be able to use it on the wooden deck.

2. A number of years ago, I bought a used Kimpex 48" wide ATV blower which needed a stinger to be contstructed for use on an ATV. When I went used ATV shopping I ended up buying a 2006 Polaris Ranger 700 EFI 6x6 which is wider than the Kimpex by about 6". The 6x6 has been great for skidding logs and I put 2500 lb winches front and back which works great for directing tree falling. I now get it that a 6x6 is a toy compared to a Satoh 4x4 370D small tractor on which I could have put a PTO-powered snowblower. Regardless, I have the Ranger, so I am going to experiment with what I have by welding the stinger for the 6x6 and maybe building auger side extension wings for the Kimpex. And I will likely save up and buy at least two pairs of the chains below from tirechain.com at the exhobitant prices from tirechain.com because for many years I used their CAM lock V-bar chains on vehicles and although a CAM lock wouldn't be necessary for the 6x6 tires, the V-bar version without the CAM lock for ATV tires may be worth the money. But suggestions are always appreciated.

 

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Discussion Starter #19
UPDATE! I am glad that the tree faller's guy plowed the EOD berm because I wouldn't want to get high centered with the back of the truck hanging out on the Hwy, but there was only 8 inches of light fluffy powder beyond it and up to the top of the driveway. So I was able to park the Bronco in 4WD at the top of the driveway without blowing. But that didn't stop me from busting out the ST1032 which started right up and then died in a few minutes because it was out of fuel (but not out of crankcase oil). It went up and down and around round and although I can see where a few bolts are missing (chute deflector and gas tank bracket) it did a great job scraping/blowing down to the dirt.

Couple of newbie initial thoughts:

First, I will never look at my driveway the same way again. Now, more like BlueHill likely looks at his Saskatchewan fields in Spring after the frost heave has given birth to rocks.

And when it hits a rock (really the tip of an immovable granite iceberg pushing through the dirt driveway) it pivots because the big heavy 32" wide bucket is a honking wide lever. But this is only rude when in high gear moving forward. And I have been able to pivot the scraper blade up and down off the fulcrum of the wheels to work my driveway.

I haven't put the chains on yet, but will soon. (First, I think I need to thaw a water line.) And I don't think it has the locking differential option, at least the left hub doesn't appear to have anything to adjust.

Second, unless there is something wrong with my ST1032, let's call reverse what it really is: "Pull Assist."

In other words, there is no fear of it running over me in reverse, that's for sure.

Third, I have no idea how it will work in crunchy old snow, but I am sure I will find out.

Fourth, it is unlikely that I will be able to get it up on my deck (but I am about to go back out to try if I can drive it up and around the back).

Fifth, this DIY blow your own snow stuff is not too bad and kinda fun. So that brings me to,

Sixth, I can't wait to get the ATV Kimpex with an improvised electric attached to the 6x6 Polaris Ranger.

Here's Beers to You!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Got it up on the deck. Learned a couple of things: A) As long as the dog's leash does not go into the impeller before you release the auger lever, you are good to go; B) I have a bumpy layer of ice on my deck, which is catching the bucket, so any suggestion on different skids would be great; C) This machine is much more well mannered on a smooth surface like a deck (compared to an inclined dirt driveway), so much so that I think that anyone with a large concrete driveway who needs a large auger bucket would be happy with it.

Going to put the chains on now...
 
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