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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
20210227

Don't have pics of the install process. Take a look at the link to the screws in #99 above to see what a TEK screw looks like.

The TEK screws self-tap the equivalent of machine-screw threads in the paddles. I added flat washers under the heads, and have them tight enough to let those washers and the washer-heads on the screws do the job of keeping them from falling out in service. The installation couldn't have been easier really once the chute pieces were out of the way. No drilling holes, no fiddling blindly with screws-nuts-lock-washers or lock nuts, screwdriver and wrench. The TEK screws go in in one shot, using a drill or in my case the impact driver. The impact driver never made it to impact mode, suggesting that any decent drill with the hex nut driver bit in the chuck would work at least as well. As described, the Vise-Grip pliers held the plastic pad in place while I set the screws, and also held the impellor paddle up in the discharge opening just perfectly for the surgery. Zip-zip-zip-zip, rotate the impellor 120º, clamp the pad in place, zip-zip-zip-zip, and again for the third paddle.
 

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@dr bob what is the approximate amount of your gap between impeller and housing?
 

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@dr bob what is the approximate amount of your gap between impeller and housing?
I don't know what variation there might be in gap due to production tolerances, but in my own ST227P the gap was roughly 3/8" IIRC. I do believe that after the impeller modification the machine performs better in general and notably with very wet snow. After the last storm, which left about 2" of wet snow then rained on it, the machine still was throwing the slush 20' or more most of the time. I did get a little buildup of slush in the chute at times, which I would clear out with the tool. I think I need to pay more attention to spraying the chute regularly to cover times when the snow gets slushy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
@dr bob what is the approximate amount of your gap between impeller and housing?
Gap started out at an average less than half an inch, with a metal protection flange where the chute mounts that's less than 3/8". The other "high spots" in the housing are the bolt heads where the chute mounts, somewhere in between as far as impellor clearance. The urethane pieces were placed so there was a slight interference with the housing, and the first few minutes of operation caused them to self-clearance (read: wear...) to just make contact with the drum, and flex as they pass that protection flange. There are narrow notches worn in from the bolt heads. I will have to repaint the barrel in the spring before it goes to summer storage. It was due anyway, but the wear from the new flaps removed all doubt.

The last snow was very similar to what Dick R. describes. A few inches of heavy snow, from just barely freezing temps as it snowed. I started just pushing it with the shovel, but hung that up and pulled the machine out after a few shovel passes to the street. I need to add another layer of wax/paint sealant to the augers, but in the meanwhile the engine loading tells me that the impellor is doing a bit more work than previously. It easily slings the soggy snow 30+ feet. I had no issues with the chute clogging, but the augers were definitely suffering with clogging if I went at normal full-speed for the snow depth. In average snow, there's a very definite improvement in throwing distance, and more engine load with the extra distance and performance. A worthwhile tradeoff for almost all the area that I clear. We live on a shared private road with a 80' diameter cul de sac in front. If I wait for the HOA's contractor to clear snow, we get plow piles in the cul de sac and on the lawn areas. Better to wander down the street and toss the snow completely clear of the pavement. Prior to the impellor mod, the cul de sac would get some double-throwing. Now, there's enough range to get almost all of the middle snow off the pavement in one go at it. In heavy/deeper snow conditions, this saves a lot of work. Previously I'd do a few 'laps' of the perimeter to make room for the middle snow that I couldn't throw far enough. There's still some that doesn't get there especially when it's soggy, but for the rest it's a pretty decent improvement.

For me, the performance improvement is worth the effort.
 
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Discussion Starter · #106 · (Edited)
20210308

Certainly worth a try, as it's easy enough to change it back if you don't like it. Whether that will add the expected 30-50% to the throwing distance for the <10% change in impellor speed is debatable. Math says Not Likely.

Just adding the impellor-mod paddles definitely affects the engine loading, which net affects impellor speed a small bit. Engine is working a little harder, just based on listening to the exhaust note. The urethane paddles are just touching the inside of the drum now most of the way around, so not much in the way of added friction at this point. It definitely throws farther now, but the extra 'work' it does isn't free -- the engine knows it's working a little harder. It's a net-positive result so far.

----

I still need to get new wax/sealant on the front bits before we get more snow. Next-door neighbor with the little blade on his lawn tractor asked if it's OK to pull his driveway snow stakes, as we've had some pretty warm afternoons lately. I told him to go ahead, but also mentioned that it's just getting into March, and there's at least another month of snow season available. Nothing triggers a blizzard quite like being unprepared in March. Snow stakes are still there.

More when it happens!


Bob
 

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Someone else on SBF changed their pulley from 3" to 3.25" and it made a huge difference in throwing distance.

I figure it's worth a try. I hate having to throw the same snow twice. I have plenty of room all around my driveway, so the further the snow goes the better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 · (Edited)
Someone else on SBF changed their pulley from 3" to 3.25" and it made a huge difference in throwing distance.

I figure it's worth a try. I hate having to throw the same snow twice. I have plenty of room all around my driveway, so the further the snow goes the better.
20210327

Let us know how well it works. Any improvement is good, especially the easy stuff like a pulley change. Spring pre-hibernation maintenance this year should probably include splitting the case and checking/replacing the impellor shaft bearing. If the quality of that one is similar to a few others on this one, it's time. Of course, with all that apart, testing a new drive pulley would be pretty easy. Remember that there's no such thing as a free lunch, as increasing the impellor speed will add load to the engine. For most light-snow days we'd probably not notice it much. Bu in deep or heavy/wet snow it will likely slow the engine down as load is added, netting a similar impellor speed in the end. Slippery slope, solved with an engine upgrade. "More Power!"
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 · (Edited)
20210327

I went down the block and harvested all my snow stakes earlier in the week. Still have a few little caches of snow hidden under some bushes by the road, but it's clear that it's a warm winter and spring. Safe tp pack everything and put it all away. Should have irrigation water going into the pond in a couple weeks, pretty much the official transition from winter to not-winter around here. I have a maintenance list to attend to this spring, and may just jump into that in a week or two after I line up some parts and some paint for the impellor barrel. A little bit of wrenching, a little touch of the Krylon Picasso treatment.
 

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I am making a list of parts to get for my machine. Some are upgrades that Husqvarna made to newer models that are bolt-in for my older machine. I did replace the original LH358SA engine with a HMSK100. They are almost the same thing. I believe they are both 358cc engines. I have been looking for an OHV engine of similar or higher cc's that I could use. I would need to get the engine mounting plate that Husqvarna started using when they changed over to LCT engines. Also the center of the crankshaft on these OHV engines is 1" higher, so I would need longer belts. I think I'm good for the impeller belt (use 40" belt with newer engine and 3" pulley), but not sure about drive belt, yet.

I'll test the 3" pulley next winter and see if the HSMK100 can handle it.

I passed up on a great deal for an LCT 404cc engine (electric start, manual throttle, proper crankshaft: 3/4" - ~2.5" long - tapped 3/8 - 24) earlier this year and I'm kicking myself now. I still would have had to get the mounting plate and longer belts for that engine, but I would have had the summer to work on it.

Hopefully some new deals will pop up again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
20210401

Will you change the belt cover too? I looked hard at some of the bigger LCT replacement engines last fall when I saw an ad, but then figured that I'd just tear up the homeowner-grade drive pieces if I asked it to do much more work. The original engine still works perfectly, needing only a fab'd muffler cover support so far. I might put a new spark plug in it, mostly because I have a box of them for a car I no longer own. Thought I gave the last ones away, but found some anyway.

It's been in the 70's here the last few days. Forecast shows a bit of mixed precip on Monday, but overnights are barely freezing. Still have 10' of snow at the ski area. I've been cleaning up after a weekend windstorm dropped a Ponderosa Pine in the driveway. Top of it managed to puncture a bit of the roof over the garage, ripped gutters, so it will get new sheathing and the rest to bring it back to its former happy state. I did get to play with the chainsaw a bit. I can get out of the garage and driveway now anyway. Getting too old and crabby for cutting up trees this size.

So next task after the final tree removal (still have 40' of it standing...) will be to line up the maintenance lists/ parts for the pre-hibernation tool-fest. It was a very light snow year so under 15 hours added. I'm thinking hard about that impellor bearing. Haven't seen any mention of a common bearing part number, so may end up kicking and screaming at the Husqvarna parts catalog trying to find one. Can't imagine they would invent their own bearing for that duty though.

I'll probably check back in once or twice between now and next fall, otherwise adios and see you sometime after Labor Day.
 

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I haven't even checked to see if the belt cover has room for a higher crankshaft. I could always built something out of wood that would probably work better than the original cover.

The bigger engine still runs at the same or even lower RPMs. It will have more torque, though. I'd only be going from 358cc to a little over 400cc. Having a 30" bucket on my machine, I don't see it being that huge of an increase, plus my older Husqvarna is better made than the newer stuff. I would hope the newer engine would be able to maintain full power when under full load instead of loosing power like the Tecumseh does. Might be a reason why people love those Predator 212 engines (small yet powerful and easy drop-in replacement).

Pulley change first. If still not happy, then bigger engine.

Luckily I cut down all of the large trees around my house a few years ago. The Nor'easters I get love taking down the biggest trees and totaling vehicles and damaging homes.

Are you talking about #12 532198791 ? PartsTree - Home of OEM Parts for Outdoor Power Equipment

See you later.
 
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