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What do you guy think of a stainless steel auger housing extension......?
I can see the advantage of it not rusting, but I can also see the disadvantage of annoying light reflection. I'd like to hear opinions......
 

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I really don't see light reflection as an issue - especially in Upstate NY. We don't even have a sun in the Winter. LOL
 

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I like the idea, just because it's stainless doesnt mean you can't paint it though, The only reason the Delorian wasn't painted any colors is because they wanted the stainless shell to be noticed, They did clear coat them however so you can paint it to match your snow blower.
 

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What do you guy think of a stainless steel auger housing extension......?
I can see the advantage of it not rusting, but I can also see the disadvantage of annoying light reflection. I'd like to hear opinions......

Technically it depends on how 'pure' the stainless is on whether it will rust or not. I have some 'stainless' steel flat bars in the garage that does have surface rust on it. To remove it, you need to use chemical or abrasives to remove it. It's still better than 'steel' for deterring rust but it's not 100% in all cases.
 

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Nah, the real reason is that paint burns off during time travel.
Is that what the "paint protectant" they sell at the dealerships is for? :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Technically it depends on how 'pure' the stainless is on whether it will rust or not. I have some 'stainless' steel flat bars in the garage that does have surface rust on it. To remove it, you need to use chemical or abrasives to remove it. It's still better than 'steel' for deterring rust but it's not 100% in all cases.
Thanks for the advise.
I have read about that and found that it is also the reason why some stainless steel can be grabbed with a magnet, which I thought was odd, since until then I believed that one way to identify SS was using a magnet, but I had found a piece of SS that a magnet would grab and it started my search to find that if the SS is "ferritic" will be attracted by magnet and also get some rust on it.
If I go that route I'll try to use the "better" stainless steel to make it worth it.
 

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JD, I believe you're incorrect. During time travel, only the tires catch fire so go for a solid rubber model. If the paint is failing, it's either because of extreme cold, lightning, or low grade Libyan plutonium.
 

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What do you guy think of a stainless steel auger housing extension......?
I can see the advantage of it not rusting, but I can also see the disadvantage of annoying light reflection. I'd like to hear opinions......
Many times SS parts exhibit rust due to being worked using tools tainted with ferric steel.

Reflection? Not likely to be an issue but you can brush or even grit blast to get a matte finish.

Why do you want to extend the sides? Other than being something of a safety issue I find it to be a big advantage. The machine does not need to drive two dead plates of steel into the snow so the augers can dig. it's especially helpful in EOD or other dense snow.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Many times SS parts exhibit rust due to being worked using tools tainted with ferric steel.
Good point, I'll see if proper and dedicated tooling can be used for it.

Reflection? Not likely to be an issue but you can brush or even grit blast to get a matte finish.
Another good point. I think I will try it with standard finish first and if it seems to present an issue than I'll blast it (or get it blasted).

Why do you want to extend the sides? Other than being something of a safety issue I find it to be a big advantage. The machine does not need to drive two dead plates of steel into the snow so the augers can dig. it's especially helpful in EOD or other dense snow.

Pete
The extension would be to increase the auger housing height not on the sides (I like the idea of open or partially open auger housing sides..)

The extension would be like this
 

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As others have mentioned, stainless does rust and is magnetic. This applies to all grades, although to a lesser extent with the better grades.


I've seen stainless marine hardware rust and stain sails, and I've seen pharmaceutical grade (316L) stainless particles get picked up by strong enough magnets.


Mike
 

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Thanks for the advise.
I have read about that and found that it is also the reason why some stainless steel can be grabbed with a magnet, which I thought was odd, since until then I believed that one way to identify SS was using a magnet, but I had found a piece of SS that a magnet would grab and it started my search to find that if the SS is "ferritic" will be attracted by magnet and also get some rust on it.
If I go that route I'll try to use the "better" stainless steel to make it worth it.
Actually magnetism has nothing to do with better or quality, Different applications. I work with tons of stainless at work so have a little knowledge, Most stainless knives are made from 440 stainless, A very high quality but WILL get surface rust if not coated but holds a edge really well.
 

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An interesting idea if executed well, meaning it's designed to be aesthetically pleasing/looks stock. The auger housing on many machines is definitely too short depending on the snow fall.

Your best option would be to use 316 stainless as it has a higher corrosion resistance in salt prone areas. That being said, the housing extension on my early 90's YS624 was in very good shape requiring only a light sanding, priming and repainting vs many other areas of the auger housing that required new metal welded in place during the rebuild.

Cost wise, standard sheet metal, wiped and either powder coated or hit with a zinc primer and paint color of choice would be the most economical. The same can be done to stainless though etching primer may be better.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What would be an ideal gauge size for the housing not to be flimsy but not overbuilt either?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
An interesting idea if executed well, meaning it's designed to be aesthetically pleasing/looks stock. The auger housing on many machines is definitely too short depending on the snow fall.
It is definitely important. I do not like when an auger housing extension is not "stock looking" and it is leaning forward instead of straight up.

Your best option would be to use 316 stainless as it has a higher corrosion resistance in salt prone areas.
I'll look into options for that.

Cost wise, standard sheet metal, wiped and either powder coated or hit with a zinc primer and paint color of choice would be the most economical. The same can be done to stainless though etching primer may be better.
I'll balance total cost vs durability and make a decision based on that.
 

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The extension would be to increase the auger housing height not on the sides (I like the idea of open or partially open auger housing sides..)

The extension would be like this
The "visor" does have value! Go for it.

I also agree with the suggestion to just use carbon steel and paint it. There's not much value in being more stable than the rest of the machine.

Pete
 
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