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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a Sno Tek 24 in February of 2015. It worked fine for the first year. In 2016 it did not get any use. We had no snow!!! I decided to get it out this year to prep for winter and it won't start. When I put it away in 2015 I shut off the fuel and ran it until it was out of gas. I did not drain the tank. When it wouldn't start this year I did completely drain the tank and remove the carb bowl. Didn't look too bad. I have tried everything I can think of.


There appears to be good spark on the spark plug. But no matter what I try it just doesn't sound like the engine is firing. I've even tried spraying a little starter fluid down the spark plug hole and then put the plug back in and still it doesn't sound like it is firing. I'm beginning to wonder if there is some type of safety switch that is preventing it from starting. I noticed that I can get spark when starting regardless of what position the run/stop is in. The big red key is in so that's been checked. I would like to check the wiring but haven't found a manual that shows me the wiring.


I don't see a lot of posts lately on this forum but I'm hoping someone might have some suggestions.


Thanks,
Rob
 

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I had the same problem. I stuck my thumb over the intake and cranked the electrric starter and it fired up.
 

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does your snotek have a primer button ? if so.....prime it till it drips out of the carb......it should at least make a kick to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
does your snotek have a primer button ? if so.....prime it till it drips out of the carb......it should at least make a kick to go.
Yes it does. I did prime it until it dropped. Still no sign of it firing. I guess I'll try replacing the spark plug as suggested even though it appears to have a decent spark and looks good.
 

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Throw that Torch spark plug as far away from your property as you can and try any other brand. I prefer NGK.:grin:
I'd try a new plug and some different gas. Drain whatever you put in and go up in octane. Temps are not that cold yet, I find that if I hit the primer more than once it's easy to flood. Don't overthink this.... it ran when you put it away.
 

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compression?

was gonna say staring at it won't work but you seem to be doing everything right. i had a lawnmower like that once and one of the valves was sticking. no compression.

as a last resort, i would tell your blower you are gonna take it to the dump if it doesn't start after you have done everything possible and sweet talk it.

sometimes you need tough love. threaten and then beat it with a club.
 

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A sparkplug can sometimes spark out of the engine but won't spark in the engine under compression. Try a new plug, they're cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well thanks for all the suggestions. I replaced the spark plug with a new NGK but no luck. I ordered a new carb off eBay for $23 but I'm skeptical that will solve the problem. I wish I could find the wiring diagram for this snow blower because my gut tells me that is where the problem lies.
 

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if you have spark, air, fuel , and compression , it should start. or almost start.

can you see that the choke is closing? when you pull plug is it dry ? or wet? did you do a compression check?

did you take bowl off and turn fuel on to see that fuel is flowing?

could it be a timing issue? you said it worked last year so it is probably one of the 4 things above. I agree that a new carb probably won't help unless the float is bad or the needle valve and it is flooding.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
http://www.lausonpower.com/pdf/LCT Quick Reference Guide_small.pdf

i dont think its wiring related, have you tried a few drops of fuel down the plug hole ?

..... just another thought, do you live in an area where those dirt /mud dobber things live ? maybe a nest in the intake ?

Yes, tried shooting some starter fluid down the plug hole. Still didn't sound like it was firing. Which is crazy since I saw spark and have a new plug.


We do have mud dobbers around here but they typically build their nests around the dormers of the home.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I have purchased a new spark plug and carb. I put the new carb on today but have not tried to try it yet. I don't really know how to check the compression but my neighbor when he was looking at it said it seemed like it had good compression. I think he put his finger over the spark plug hole while he hit the starter.


Before I try the new carb I am still curious about the wiring harness. I removed the two wires on the stop/run switch and although I think I know which terminals I took them off I am a bit confused.


The switch has 4 terminals on it in a 2 by 2 pattern like this...
__ __


__ __


I thought the two wires were on the bottom two terminals. But when I checked the switch with my ohm meter I found that the two left terminals are shorted when the switch is in the run position and the two right terminals are open. And vice versa when in the stop position. So putting them across the two top or two bottom terminals doesn't seem to make any sense. My question is do these two wires need to be open or shorted when trying to start it? It appears the path of the wiring goes from a ground terminal on the engine, through the key switch, then through the stop/run switch, and then somewhere into the engine case.


I also noticed that with the key switch, which is a big red key that is either plugged in or absent, I did not see any difference with my meter. I measured about 3 ohms regardless if the key was in or out. After I actually pulled the wires off the switch I found that when the key is inserted the terminals register open and shorted when the key is out.


I'd really like to make sure the wiring is correct before I proceed to try the new carb.


Thanks for all the suggestions!
Rob
 

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to me it sounds like some sort of spark issue. if your spraying starting fluid in the plug and the throat of the carb and it doesnt kick over at all or pop or anything. that has to be the problem.

i doubt the compression is gone on a blower that is pretty much new.

how i troubleshoot spark normally is pull the little wire to the coil and check for spark sparkplug in boot and ground a sqrew driver to the hole and put the electrode on the driver. if you have spark good that means your coil is good you just by passed all the wiring before the coil.

basically all your kill switch circuit does is put a ground to the the little terminal of the coil. so when you are testing back to your switch the easiest way is if you have a multi-meter with a continuity beep check the wiring and switch. when in run position the circuit is open and when in the off position it should be closed and have continuity from the ground wire all the way through the switch and back to the terminal on the coil.

hope it helps
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Subie... I finally came to the logical conclusion that grounding to the engine was going to kill the engine. So I left the run/switch wires off (open) and the same with the key switch. Tried to start it and still nothing. There is no manual throttle on the unit so I manually turned the throttle and it STARTED! Smoked like a mother. But it's all back and running. Not sure if the new carb and plug had anything to do with it or not. But I'm leaving it as is. Just happy I did not have to take it to a dealer and pay them. The new carb and spark plug was less than $30 so I consider that a win.


Thanks again to all who responded in this thread.


Rob
 
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