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Starting / running issues - related to temperature?

652 views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  Heimkehr II  
#1 ·
Our ST824 / 924050 has been having major issues with running lately. tldr at the bottom.

To preface: when we bought it used, the instructions from the previous owner said to turn the choke knob to full, prime once, engage electric starter, then switch the knob to "choke" and idle for a minute before switching to "off" and having at it. And for four years, that worked flawlessly every time. (This is also similar to the original manual, only that indicates to prime twice.)

But this year, we started having issues. Sometimes it would stall immediately on turning the choke off. Others it would still run, but then stall the second you engaged the clutch handles. And other times still, it would be good for a few passes before stalling. And maybe, just maybe, it would actually do the whole driveway. And once in a very great while, it just wouldn't even start.

So we had it picked up and sent to a shop, and...they called to say they had no trouble with it. Kept it for a few days. Threw a ton of snow with it. Would let it idle for half an hour at a time with no sputtering. So we got it back.

And right away, it wouldn't even start. We called them up, and they came by. They said that at the temperature we had that day (right around freezing, maybe a hair above), priming and choking were unnecessary. So we let it sit for half an hour after the failed prime / choke startup attempt, and tried starting it right from the "off" position - and it worked just fine. The new instructions we got from the repair place was that it should only be primed / choked below freezing.

A few days later, my dad was using it as a far while my wife dealt with work things, and he didn't realize until he was nearly done with the driveway that he'd never turned the choke off, so he flipped the knob and immediately it stalled out.

And now, as of yesterday, my wife was once again unable to start it at all. It was in the low 20s or high teens, so she tried priming and choking before starting, and it wouldn't start at all. So she gave it half an hour, tried starting it again without choking, and....still nothing. Can't get it to start.

tldr: This is all a very long-winded way of asking: does air temperature have a drastic effect on operation? And does it help indicate what the problem might be? I'm gone for work and won't be back for weeks, and she's both far too busy and not mechanically minded enough to try to take anything apart, so attempting to fix it ourselves isn't really on the table. But can anyone help me understand just what the hell is going on? We keep getting wet heavy snow (we've beaten last year's total snowfall by 30% and climbing) and her back simply can't handle shoveling it all the time. But given that the shop couldn't replicate the issue when they had it the other week, I'm worried that sending it back to them yet again will just result in another "we don't really know, sorry".
 
#4 ·
A few days later, my dad was using it as a far while my wife dealt with work things, and he didn't realize until he was nearly done with the driveway that he'd never turned the choke off, so he flipped the knob and immediately it stalled out.
A machine that only runs on choke requires carb work. The pilot jet and or passageways are clogged. All my snowblowers will start at 0 degrees or 80 degrees and anything in between.
 
#5 ·
Unless it was changed, the ST824 should have a Tecumseh engine on it, and unless someone added something, there isn't a fuel filter other than maybe a coarse screen in the tank. Since this machine is older, you might want to check the fuel line to see if it is breaking down and either dropping junk into the carb, or restricting flow.

And yes, temp is a factor, but there are no hard and fast rules. Since you can't "unprime" and engine, if warmer, I'd just try to start unprimed (or lightly primed), and if no joy, then hit the primer.

This does, though, sound a lot like fuel line breakdown though. The fine crud sits in the float bowl and will gradually plug the passage in the bowl nut and kill it while running. If a break or just shaking the machine (puts the crud back in solution) helps, then change the fuel line, make sure the tank is clean, remove the carb bowl and flush fuel through the carb, and clean the bowl, nut, and any other yechh you find. (Just cleaning the carb will only help briefly, since the old line will just drop more crud back into it).
 
#6 ·
This does, though, sound a lot like fuel line breakdown though. The fine crud sits in the float bowl and will gradually plug the passage in the bowl nut and kill it while running. If a break or just shaking the machine (puts the crud back in solution) helps, then change the fuel line, make sure the tank is clean, remove the carb bowl and flush fuel through the carb, and clean the bowl, nut, and any other yechh you find. (Just cleaning the carb will only help briefly, since the old line will just drop more crud back into it).
You know, I wonder if this could be it. When I went to store it for the season last spring, I went to turn off the fuel line switch and the short piece that connects that to the gas tank literally cracked wide open (obviously I replaced it). That tells me it was in bad shape - I didn't look too closely at the inside of it, but maybe it had been degrading internally as well and passing all sorts of crud down the rest of the system. If we do end up having the repair place pick this up again, I'll make sure I tell them about that. They didn't do any work on the fuel system last time since they couldn't make it stall. I think this time instead of telling them what we experienced and asking them to just fix it, I'll ask them to just go ahead and take the carb off, clean it, and replace the parts of the fuel line that I didn't touch last time. Just give it an overhaul and cross my fingers. (DIY isn't an option given I won't be home for a while and my wife doesn't have the time to attempt to learn, and complete, small engine work)

Thanks for the idea!
 
#7 ·
A machine that only runs on choke requires carb work. The pilot jet and or passageways are clogged. All my snowblowers will start at 0 degrees or 80 degrees and anything in between.
Assuming we do end up fixing this, would you recommend something like routine Seafoam use in the future? Or anything else that could be easily done by someone who doesn't know the first thing about taking these things apart and putting them back together again? Or is this just a "fact of life" regarding snowblower use?
 
#9 ·
If the line was deteriorated that much the whole fuel system should be examined. Even with additives the fuel produced now attacks certain rubbers, synthetics, and plastics rather quickly. Another reason dry storage may be preferable. I thought there was mention recently of plastic tank problems as well. :unsure:
 
#12 ·
If I store my OPE in a dry state, so to speak, that means I've drained the fuel tank, run the engine until it stalls from fuel starvation, and then the carburetor bowl is drained. I'll also drain the now-warm oil, so that combustion by-products and/or other acids aren't sitting there until the machine is next started. Draining the used oil is no small matter because there's been a few Winters when I've not needed to bring the snowblower out of hibernation. I'd rather have peace of mind knowing that there's nothing inside of it that could cause worry over the long term. Dry means dry.

I'll also fog the cylinder, and do other stuff according to the OPE in question, but that particular discussion exceeds the scope of this thread.