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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Life in Manitoba was crazy this winter from hell. 216 cms of snow April 13 followed by two back to back weekend of 70 mm and 50 mm of rains .. crazy floods in many places. We did well.
Ariens Deluxe 30 served me well .
I am exhausted and with so much work ( we are on 5 cares property) , I want to do as minimum as possible to store this beast properly still ensuring a stress free start in Nov

So blower has some gas in it. Am I doing it right below
1) On purpose I did not put much gas in it for last few uses so that I can burn it all faster so I am going to start and let the whole gas burn so that the machine stops
2) Pour 1 liter of Trufuel that I bought and run it for few minutes. Thats where I have question. Should I just stop the machine with the key after few minutes of running or should I stop using the fuel knob so that all the remaining fuel from Carb gets burnt as well and Carb become empty.
3) Once the machine stops, change the oil . Give few quick pull to the cord ( with key OFF) to make oil splash
4) Store.
5) Any other critical item I am missing. Lots of info out there. Spark plug opening, spraying some WD40 through spark plus opening etc . Grease etc . Snow blower has been dried in the sun and well ventilated area. Are all these things really necessary. will it hurt anything if I dont do that.

Thanks in advance
 

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Do you have a lawn mower? If so and you haven't had any problems with winter storage for the lawnmower, do the same for your snowblower. The engines don't know what they are mounted to.

Empty or syphon out the remaining gas in the tank. About the Trufuel you don't need to pour the whole can in, that would be a waste, just a few ounces is enough to start it to get that fuel flushed through the carb. You can either run it just long enough to fill the carb then shut it down, or run it dry. I have found it makes no difference which way you do it. If you want to put a bit of oil into the combustion chamber through the spark plug go ahead. But yeah. keep the rain off it if possible.

But of course you'll get several different opinions on what to do and not to do so hang tuff.
 
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Store all my stuff with 91 fuel and sea foam full tanks, 32 yr old Honda pressure washer yesterday stored for 2 yrs, 2 pulls and runs smooth, snow blower and lawn mower get the same treatment, 270 honda motor sitting on the floor for 15 yrs same gas, same thing 2 pulls, and no plugged up carbs, don't believe in draining tanks so no rust problem's.
 

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Search Summer Storage ..... It's like politics and religion, everyone has there own thoughts and it has been hashed here many times with all kinds of choices and thoughts.
 

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Should I just stop the machine with the key after few minutes of running or should I stop using the fuel knob so that all the remaining fuel from Carb gets burnt as well and Carb become empty.
I don't think it makes a difference when you stop the engine since the non-E fuel should keep for the short time it is in storage.

...spraying some WD40 through spark plus opening etc .
I am not a fan of spraying WD-40 in the cylinders because it is more of a "solvent" in its qualities. If it were me, I would just use a couple of good squirts of motor oil and then pull the cord to coat the cylinders if there is any concern. I don't think this is neccesary because of the short term storgae. I do this to my antique motorcycle because it might be a couple or more years in between riding.
 
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I agree to not use WD40 as a lubricant in the cylinder. Use proper oil or nothing. I also recommend greasing the wheel shafts and the auger shafts. You can google how to do this if you haven't tried yet.
 
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I agree to not use WD40 as a lubricant in the cylinder.
I used WD40 (the WD stands for Water Displacement) starting in the 1960s for coating cylinders in outboards prior to storage. It always worked well, but in the late 1990s, I discovered Bombardier lube, which smells evil but seems to do a very good job on both 2-stroke & 4-stroke innards prior to storage.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you so much everyone.
I also did search the forum and found good information but I will still like to continue this thread as a bare minimum TO DOs for the Snowblower.
My fuel tank capacity is 3 liters ( It is a deluxe 30) , the 1 lite bottle Trufuel that I will pour will be filling it one third( bit less as I will run the machine for 5 minutes to get this thing circulate through the system)
I guess the tank is metal. Will a 2/3 empty tank cause condensation and rust issue? Storage is inside a Garage which is dry but uninsulated and unheated . Our summer is sometimes dry and sometime rainy.
 

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first of all, most on this forum would say that "bare minimum" is not enough. If it is worth doing, then it is worth doing right. Anyways, yes, a partial tank will create condensation more than a full or empty one.

I would recommend either filling the tank, running the machine periodically thru the offseason, or emptying the tank for storage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Can you get zero ethanol pump gas? Just as good as the overpriced scam called Trufuel . . .
I would if I could. Government has mandated. Zo ethanol free gas period. Hence the overprice scam called Trufuel.
My situation has been very overwhelming. From owning nothing but a very reliable Honda Accord Car. I suddenly now own this Ariens Deluxe 30 snow blower, a Honda EU 2200 generator and a Cub Cadet Z Force SX lawnmower.
For the entire snow period ( 6 months here) never had a problem running the premium grade fuel. Its just now when the matter comes to storage for Ariens, I have to decide, if I want to go treated fuel route or TruFuel. At least for Trufuel there will be no ethanol.
But for my Honda Generator, I am reading that use the treated fuel all the time because that engine has a carburetor as well and Generators are not normally run very often( I am running once a month just to keep it running for like 1/2 an hour) and then I will have Snow blower out and functioning, I will have to worry about my Lawn Mower storage ( That even has two gas tanks).
With all this overwhelming things, For snowblower, I was just thinking to dump 1 liter Trufuel and relax for 6 months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
first of all, most on this forum would say that "bare minimum" is not enough. If it is worth doing, then it is worth doing right. Anyways, yes, a partial tank will create condensation more than a full or empty one.

I would recommend either filling the tank, running the machine periodically thru the offseason, or emptying the tank for storage.
Will running the machine periodically , not defeat the purpose of an oil change after the season is over. These engines might have quite some fuel adulteration on the start, so if I change the oil now and run it once every month, I might be starting with dirty oil when the season starts.
 

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In Ontario, non ethanol premium fuel is available at Shell and Canadian Tire gas bars (the pumps will have a sticker stating no ethanol).

According to this website, that is the case for all of Canada, and other stations also offer it depending on the province.


I use only non ethanol pump fuel in all my OPE and I still store the equipment with empty tanks and run the carbs dry. I have never had an issue with rust forming in the metal tanks (snow blowers, pressure washer and generator) or starting issues at the beginning of the season. I do store my equipment in a well ventilated and dry shed or garage.

If you want to store the equipment without draining them. Use fresh stabilized E10 if you can't get non ethanol fuel, fill the tanks, run the equipment for a few minutes, turn fuel shut off to off. Once the engine dies, prime or full choke and start engine again, until it no longer starts.
You should be fine for at least 6 months of storage. You can start the equipment every month or 2 and repeat the process if you wish.

If equipment is going to be stored for longer than a year, I would store with the fuel system empty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
OK so completed the ritual yesterday...
after burning the old fuel, I poured 1.5 liter Trufuel in there. started again for 5 minutes. Stopped it by turning the key to stop and not by the Fuel shut off valve because I did not want the Carb empty . Changed the oil. Now the Fuel shutoff valve is Open. Does it matter if it open or closed?
I bought the 3.25 Liter Can of Trufuel. The remaining will go in my Honda EU2200 generator which essentially in storage all the time. I start it only once per month.
In the summer, I will try to find any airports ( perhaps chase those small aircrafts that fly on the farms to spray pesticide etc :) ) that can sell me ethanol free gas at lower price than Truefuel.
 

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Life in Manitoba was crazy this winter from hell. 216 cms of snow April 13 followed by two back to back weekend of 70 mm and 50 mm of rains .. crazy floods in many places. We did well.
Ariens Deluxe 30 served me well .
I am exhausted and with so much work ( we are on 5 cares property) , I want to do as minimum as possible to store this beast properly still ensuring a stress free start in Nov

So blower has some gas in it. Am I doing it right below
1) On purpose I did not put much gas in it for last few uses so that I can burn it all faster so I am going to start and let the whole gas burn so that the machine stops
2) Pour 1 liter of Trufuel that I bought and run it for few minutes. Thats where I have question. Should I just stop the machine with the key after few minutes of running or should I stop using the fuel knob so that all the remaining fuel from Carb gets burnt as well and Carb become empty.
3) Once the machine stops, change the oil . Give few quick pull to the cord ( with key OFF) to make oil splash
4) Store.
5) Any other critical item I am missing. Lots of info out there. Spark plug opening, spraying some WD40 through spark plus opening etc . Grease etc . Snow blower has been dried in the sun and well ventilated area. Are all these things really necessary. will it hurt anything if I dont do that.

Thanks in advance
I bought my Rapidtrak in 2019. I've only used non-ethanol fuel in it from day one. During the winter I'll buy the non-ethanol fuel from a busy gas station. At seasons end, I'll run it out. Than a fill the steel gas tank up with VP Small Engine Fuel. It's similar to TruFuel, but I think better. It's non-ethanol 94 octane, and lasts several years in its steel container. Anyway, I than run the machine for a little bit to get the VP fuel through, than turn off the gas and let it die out. I make sure the tank is filled to the top so as to avoid "rust". With my Honda lawnmowers, I run the tank dry because they're plastic but with steel gas tanks, I fill um all the time. I have zero rust in my gas tanks running non-ethanol fuel and keeping um full. Than I pull the plug, spray some "engine fog" in the cyclinder, crank it slowly several times, and put the plug back in. I spray silicone on all the bare metal, and cover it up. I'll change the oil either at seasons end or to start, depending upon how much use the machine got all winter. When winter comes, the machine starts on first or second pull every time. Runs like a champ, as it should only being a few years old, but this has worked well for me. It's pretty quick too putting it away in Spring.
 
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