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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I have a 1968 10M6D. In this model year, it defaults to drive and you pull in the clutch lever in order to stop it and shift. It had started to get difficult to shift into different gears, and now the clutch lever won't move at all.

A picture is attached and it is similar to ones at Scotty's site in the 10,000 model range. The clutch lever is connected to a clutch rod that connects to a ball joint than into a throwout lever. This picture shows how the clutch rod connects. I am just reading from the manual some parts names and how they are connected. I am not sure how the mechanism works. I'm assuming that pulling the clutch lever lifts the friction wheel off the drive wheel, which enables you to move the shift lever, which slides the friction wheel left or right.


My problem is that the clutch lever won't move anymore, I can squeeze as hard as I can, and the clutch rod just tenses but doesn't move. Hence, the friction wheel won't move and can't shift it.

I am not sure where to start troubleshooting. Judicious tapping with a hammer here and there did nothing.
 

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Since you said the problem has been getting worse to the point where it doesn't move now, I'm going to say you prob have some lubrication issues (crud build up) on the sliding parts within the drive carrier assembly. I would flip the machine up on the bucket, drop the belly pan and start to clean everything inside, then re-lube with some marine grade bearing/axle grease where parts contact each other.
 

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Hi All,

I have a 1968 10M6D. In this model year, it defaults to drive and you pull in the clutch lever in order to stop it and shift. It had started to get difficult to shift into different gears, and now the clutch lever won't move at all.
Here's a pic of my '65 10md6 before I replaced the friction disc (which is another story). The clutch is a simple, sping-loaded lever (kinda hidden up in left side of pic) that pivots the disc bracket up and away. Can't think of much binding it except the throw-out bearing for the disc is really crapped up inside its housing, not letting the disc bracket rotate away from the shifter slide rod/pin (across the top of the pic). Once you open it up it'll make sense. Be careful spraying lube in there. I had the shifter slide freeze up, got ticked off, sprayed WD40 every where through the shift rod opening and got the drive plate all wet! Good luck and report back!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
that pivots the disc bracket up and away. Can't think of much binding it except the throw-out bearing for the disc is really crapped up inside its housing, not letting the disc bracket rotate away from the shifter slide rod/pin (across the top of the pic).
yes mine looks similar. The disc bracket is not rotating. I couldn't figure out what path it is supposed to move on to rotate out of the way.

One thing I noticed, is if you look in the picture in my first post, it was taken a few months ago. The rod that is part of the throwout lever is sitting in the middle of the slot, not touching any sides.

Right now that rod is all the way forward in a little indent that looks to have been worn into the housing.

Here is the parts breakdown. I tried to upload the manual but it was too big If you can suggest part numbers to focus lubrication on that would help a lot.
 

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Earl,
Have you tried adjustments to the clutch rod itself? From yor photo, it looks like the rod end can be tightened some. Also, as Ray noted, dirt free and lubed are keys to smooth operation on these mechanisms. MH
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Earl,
Have you tried adjustments to the clutch rod itself? From yor photo, it looks like the rod end can be tightened some. Also, as Ray noted, dirt free and lubed are keys to smooth operation on these mechanisms. MH
So adjustments would include tightening the ball joint to take u some of the 'slack' in the adjustment rod


Dumb question. Can I stand it on the bucket with the engine on it and filled with gas?
 

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Dumb question. Can I stand it on the bucket with the engine on it and filled with gas?
You can if you are careful. Make sure the oil cap is on tight so oil doesn't leak everywhere. Preferable to have a fuel shut off and burn the gas out of the carb first so that doesn't leak. Also helpful to have the fuel tank less than half full so the fuel level is lower than the vent in the tank cap. I have heard of people pulling the cap off and putting something like a plastic bag under the cap to make a temporary gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think there is something wrong with drive gearing too. Should the wheels be able to spin freely where I can roll it forward and backwards. With the differential lock pulled out, the wheels can rotate in opposite directions, but both won't move forward or back at the same time.

The friction disc is in the middle of the drive wheel and the drive clutch lever is disengaged.
 

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Earl..
Something you may want to check that can jam up on these older Ariens...under the belt cover is a large spring loaded clutch dog that engages with a similar engine driven dog when you engage the main engagement clutch by the belt guard. Pull the belt cover and make sure it is able to move freely on its shaft. If it is stuck, spray some PB or like lube on it and tap on it with a hammer. When they stick, they cause engagement probs. MH
 

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Sounds like you need to get in there and free some things up. Possible your drive disc is out of adjustment or stuck on the sliding shaft and/or the differential is gummed up. Drain the gas from you tank, flip the machine up and take a pic of what it looks like in there.
 

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If you're engine has a "dipstick" style oil fill it's a good idea to put a drain pan or cardboard down as I've had a couple of those leak even though they felt tight. Depending on if you leave it up overnight it can drip enough to make a mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sounds like you need to get in there and free some things up. Possible your drive disc is out of adjustment or stuck on the sliding shaft and/or the differential is gummed up. Drain the gas from you tank, flip the machine up and take a pic of what it looks like in there.
This is a comical picture.... I took off the bucket and the engine in the shed. I made a path though the 2' of snow from the shed to the garage with my push shovel, which incidentally was able to handle this latest snow (with a lot of elbow grease, but was a trooper). .

I dragged my tractor through the path with both wheels locked up to the garage.

anyway, I'll post back with some close up pictures and am going to take off the wheels and get in there Thanks guys.
 

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This is a comical picture.... I took off the bucket and the engine in the shed. I made a path though the 2' of snow from the shed to the garage with my push shovel, which incidentally was able to handle this latest snow (with a lot of elbow grease, but was a trooper). .

I dragged my tractor through the path with both wheels locked up to the garage.

anyway, I'll post back with some close up pictures and am going to take off the wheels and get in there Thanks guys.
Sounds a lot like how I work on things, lol. Good to know I'm not alone! :D I'm doing a friction disk on my blower tomorrow so maybe I can offer better advice when I have mine opened up and get a good look in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If you disconnect the rod from the clutch lever (on the tractor), are you able to move lever by hand?
Negative.
I have the clutch rod disconnected and am trying to push up on the throwout lever to mimic the motion of pulling the clutch lever which pulls up on the clutch rod.

I am assuming that the bracket on which the friction disc is mounted should rotate in some arc that lifts the friction wheel off the drive wheel? I'm going to try and take a video to show what happens. When I press up on the throwout lever and the lack of movement of the friction disc bracket
 

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I didn't look your machine up so .... there are two ways they work. One is the friction disc is pulled against the driving disc but there is a system that the friction disc's shaft is stationary and it's the driving disc that gets pushed out against the friction disc.
If you post a photo of your machines "guts" it should be pretty clear.

If that lever isn't moving now that the rod is disconnected it's likely the friction disc is seized or gummed up and isn't moving on it's shaft. Some penetrating oil should help get it freed up. Just remember to try and keep the oil and goo off the friction disc's rubber and the driving disc. That one is easy enough to clean up though.
 

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Fyi, when the drive disc is in the neutral shift position there is very little play on that clutch. However when you are in a gear, 1,2,3,4 or R, there is significantly more movement on that clutch lever. That's why I think your drive wheel may be stuck somewhere near that that neutral position.
I think if you free up that drive disc (get it sliding freely on the shaft) you will free up the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
All con,
Attached are some pictures, and here is a video on you tube. In the video, I am attempting to push up on the throwout lever. This is assuming that when I pull in the clutch lever it pulls on the rod, which translates into the end of the throwout lever moving up.

But frankly, There is something dead simple here that I am not getting, as it looks like pushing up on that lever serves to drive the friction wheel more into the drive wheel.
 

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Disconnect the shift linkage and try to move the drive disc by hand along the shaft. The drive disc looks like its right in the middle, near the neutral spot like I said in my earlier post.
 
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