Should I replace the disc while I am in there?

When I did my bearings a couple of years ago, I did the disc as well... and this was after about 5 years of hard usage of using the blower a couple dozen times a year.
This is what my disc looked like when I replaced it, you might be able to do a visual comparison and judge for yourself...
I might have been able to go further with it, but I had the whole schmee apart and I had to R&R the disc, so why not do a new one:

 

any other suggestions?

Check the cables.
My opinion is this: If they are remotely questionable then replace them... I hate do this chore in the middle of winter.

 

Check the cables.
My opinion is this: If they are remotely questionable then replace them... I hate do this chore in the middle of winter.

The cables are all quite loose, is their a guideline for high tight they should be?

 

Should I buy the OEM Ariens disc?

 

Yes, yes and yes.
It is 11 years old, wheels are rusted on, rubber bits in the underbelly, etc...
You have all summer to work on it. Get yourself an ultrasonic cleaner. You will be amazed at how well it cleans all the nuts and bolts and parts, in ways you can never do by hand.
Get some grease, anti-seize, paint, shear bolts, spark plug, oil and anything else that you can think of.
Since this is a new-to-you-machine, while you have it all apart, change all the consumable parts, like the rubber drive wheel, oil, spark plug.
There are a few reasons to do this. It will look and work better, it will last longer, and you will know everything about your machine to be able to troubleshoot it in the future.
No need to make it a chore. Take your time, close the door and walk away when you need to. Enjoy working on it and learning how it operates. Talk to it nicely, it likes that.
Like a car, restoring an old machine is a great feeling.
Good luck and have fun.

 

Great ideas!

 

Here's pics of the disc-

 

I watched two videos on replacing the disc and on both of them they only showed the u shaped clips on the axles not the additional "c clip" that was on one axle of mine. is this not needed?

 

Your rubber drive wheel looks ok. Lots of rubber and no missing pieces on it that I can see.
The friction plate that it makes contact with needs to be cleaned. It should be smooth and shiney.
Don't use any grease on it, use a scotch-brite pad and get it nice and smooth. That will make the rubber wheel last longer.
Clean and regrease the axle that the rubber wheel slides on. That is the speed control for the wheels. Should operate nice and smooth.
You are going to have a nice machine when it is done.
On my Honda, I remove the augers and impeller every year because where I live, I need to repaint the impeller and housing as well as the inside of the chute. Lots of rocks and crap from the city.
While it is apart I clean and grease everything.

 

Thanks. This one is ion great shape, I just need to rust convert the small round cover on the auger drive.
How tight should the cables be?

 

I would replace tfriction disk, your's still looks ok, but rubber turns hard over the years and a new one will have better friction. I know there's a lot of opinions but I only use OEM parts. Never have a disappointment later.

As for the axles, use anti sieze on the axles. White grease goes bad over time, I've never had a problem after two years with anti sieze.

My electric starter doesn't engage either. I will either hit it with the start button over and over until it catches, or hand pull. (I'd have the local dealer replace it if I could, but he's in another city.)

I haven't even started mine in the last two years. A neighbor sends his son down on his JD tractor with blower attachment.

 

I would replace tfriction disk, your's still looks ok, but rubber turns hard over the years and a new one will have better friction. I know there's a lot of opinions but I only use OEM parts. Never have a disappointment later.

As for the axles, use anti sieze on the axles. White grease goes bad over time, I've never had a problem after two years with anti sieze.

My electric starter doesn't engage either. I will either hit it with the start button over and over until it catches, or hand pull. (I'd have the local dealer replace it if I could, but he's in another city.)

I haven't even started mine in the last two years. A neighbor sends his son down on his JD tractor with blower attachment.

Just an fyi, assuming your starter turns over, just doesn't catch - but I have had 2 people tell me you can move the starter around a little bit and get it in the correct position to turn the motor over. Another one said you need to file out the top mounting hole on the starter a little...

 

Can't find an Ariens friction disc for it! The Ariens p/n is 30310700 (this p/n replaced the original number). Ariens is out of stock and doesn't know when they will come in.

 

OK, got the lower end done. I did find an Ariens disc at my Deere dealer! It's packaged as a Deere, but it's stamped Ariens with the same p/n as my old one. Cleaned everything, anti-seized axles, oiled chain and greased it up.
Will try to get shear pins out and grease up Augers good next week.

 

The augers are done, the were free already so it was an easy job to remove shear pin, add grease, spin and ut pins back.

Question - I greased the gears that turn the chute. Inside it there is a loose fairly large (maybe 5/8"?) push on lock washer. Any ideas what this might be for?

Pleasantly surprised to see two new shear pins and nuts attached to the blower at this gearbox. Nice touch by Ariens!