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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I received an older snowblower that has not been used in 5+ years and had some running issues as well as the auger not moving. I have been at it replacing parts and still have not solved either issue.

Snowblower Info - Tag Image https://i.imgur.com/BV3QQjJl.jpg
Noma/Dynamark Plus Branded 10/28 10HP Tecumseh
DP1028E 3316 584249

Auger
Upon inspection I found that the auger belt was severely stretched/deteriorated and off the pulleys. I purchased a Murray 585417 auger belt however it is also too large, so now I am at a loss how to identify which belt I need exactly and hope someone here can help me identify which part # I need to buy.

Surging
I was able to start the snowblower very easily using the electric starter after only putting in fresh gas. The snowblower was previously empty of gas. It started but would only run with the choke on, and after warming up would start surging. Since then I have done the following:

1. Clean the carb - This did not produce any different results
2. Ordered a new $15 carb on ebay - This did not produce any different results which means my cleaning job was probably OK in step #1
3. Changed spark plug and all fuel lines - Now it runs nicer and can run with the choke off but I still get backfire and surging. I tried opening the fuel jet more to see if the backfiring would stop but it still backfires while surging.

Next I was going to look at the valves ( I really don't want to ), but I wanted to post my issues on a forum first to see if there are any other things I can try to stop the surging.

Thank you.
 

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A couple of things,

If you still have the old belt you can usually find the numbers that identify it in the top carcass of the belt.

Is the V belt tension spring still connected to the snubber pulley if it has one?


Can you drain the fuel bowl as it sounds like you have sediment/dirt/gum-varnish in the fuel bowl.

Spray some sea foam engine fogging spray in the carburator inlet and round the float if you can remove the fuel bowl.

High octane fuel with the normal fuel settings and seafoam in the fuel. set the spark plug gap at 25 thousandths.

I think you need to remove the tank and clean it with a few pebbles and some alcohol to break up the rust.

You need a fuel filter not one of the flat ones but a good clear plastic one with the fabric in it and a fuel shut off valve.
I think they are five or six dollars each now at retail.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for replying and the suggestions.

I do have the old belt and will check again. The top side didn't have markings last time I looked, and the inside/bottoms side is mostly torn off and missing. I am not however sure what the v belt tension spring is but the whole pulley tensioner function seems to be engaging and disengaging well. The tensioner is as far forward towards the belt as can be. Waiting for a new belt to test once I figure out the part number.

The carb float bowl has been cleaned and I just tried a new (clone) carb, but my symptoms are still the same. I also ran seafoam through it which I am sure was good to do regardless but it did not solve my surging issue.

I did not gap the new sparkplug, I did not know that was needed. Will have to go to the store to buy the tool.

The tank is plastic and in really great shape. All the fuel lines have been replaced. I will add that to the list and clean it over the weekend as well as add an inline fuel filter.

I am now thinking maybe the carb is just not getting enough gas. I am always trying to run it with too little fuel in the tank in case i have to take it apart again. Going to try with more fuel as well.
 

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Fill Tank at least Halfway. The Carb is Hunting for the Right Mixture. Adjust the screw on the side of the carb along with the main jet screw to get the Right Mixture. GL.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So since yesterday, found the right belt at a local store so that issue is out of the way. Having more fuel in the tank definitively helped, but I cannot tune the carb perfectly. Here is a video if you have two minutes, better audio near the end and i keep messing with the mixture screws.

Carb tuning. High speed jet at 1.5 turns out, low speed at 1 1/4

 

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sounds like its starving for fuel, and u changed everything that should be changed.
is the outlet nibble coming out of the bottom fuel tank clear.
fuel cap? run w/out to test.
did u clean fuel shutoff valve, mine was full of gunk.
is intake metal tube, the one from carb to engine, free from any obstructions like cobwebs etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Float was set too high and the carburetor was flooding. Everything seems to be running well now but I will spend some more time tuning tomorrow and finally give it an oil change.

Thanks everyone.
 

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picked up a free Murray 8 hp in pretty good shape and want to tune carb right.

i can start it with choke. It backfires a little so i turned out side screw until it seemed to running better. I am not familiar with the adjustable main jet. do you adjust this first and then the side screw? How about the idle? do you adjust that after everything else seems right?

I got it running fairly well with the main and the side screw but can't get it to idle right. it stalls . I did clean carb out before doing all this. The bowl and tank is very clean.

Thanks.
 

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picked up a free Murray 8 hp in pretty good shape and want to tune carb right.

i can start it with choke. It backfires a little so i turned out side screw until it seemed to running better. I am not familiar with the adjustable main jet. do you adjust this first and then the side screw? How about the idle? do you adjust that after everything else seems right?

I got it running fairly well with the main and the side screw but can't get it to idle right. it stalls. I did clean carb out before doing all this. The bowl and tank is very clean.
If you have an adjustable screw on the bottom, through the fuel bowl, that is the high speed adjust that running at full throttle.

If you have an adjustable mixture screw on the side, that is the low speed. It should have a shooting on it with a rubber O ring and a small brass washer, same with the bottom mixture screw but they are not interchangeable.

Some Tecumseh carbs have a side jet, not a mixture screw. This is not adjustable. If you are unsure, unscrew it. If it's a needle valve, it's a mixture screw. If it's blunt at the end, it's a jet. The jet also has a smaller screw head than the mixture screw, and screws all the way in, flush. The mixture screw does not screw all the way in.
 
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There is a Murray belt 585417 but most take 585416. Right now I have several Murrays, 5, 8, 10hp, 2 Nomas 5 & 9hp, and a 8/26" Dynamark. They all take the 585416, 1/2" x 38" auger belt. For accurate belt length, I only buy D&D Power or Pix, prefer blue, and prefer Kevlar. Before you scrap the belt, measure the outside length.
 

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If you have an adjustable screw on the bottom, through the fuel bowl, that is the high speed adjust that running at full throttle.

If you have an adjustable mixture screw on the side, that is the low speed. It should have a shooting on it with a rubber O ring and a small brass washer, same with the bottom mixture screw but they are not interchangeable.

Some Tecumseh carbs have a side jet, not a mixture screw. This is not adjustable. If you are unsure, unscrew it. If it's a needle valve, it's a mixture screw. If it's blunt at the end, it's a jet. The jet also has a smaller screw head than the mixture screw, and screws all the way in, flush. The mixture screw does not screw all the way in.
thanks. found a video from donyboy73 that shows the exact carb . almost have it dialed in. still working on proper idle.
 

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Keep in mind the mixture will be different if there’s are significant temperature change

Dial it in when your in the garage and it’s warm then in the cold it doesn’t run as well.

I find I pick up 100 rpm running in the cold.

Also I find the tecumseh 8-10 hp do not idle down as well as other single cylinder engines.

Red


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