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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All,

I am considering searching for a new Carburetor for my '73 Ford (Jacobsen) 726. Where would I find the engine identification, so I know what I should be shopping for?

Was let down tonight, first night that I would have been able to blow some snow, but the Ford would not start. I did run it in warmer temps in preparation for the snow season, and it started right up. This time I could get it to chug along a bit only by introducing starting fluid. Was having issue even late last season where I needed to leave the choke partway 'on' to keep the engine going with the impeller clutch engaged. It would idle fine without choke, but any load was causing trouble. I'm sure that something is dirty in the carb, but for the cost of some of the new carbs I have been seeing online, it seems like it will be easier to just bolt on something new rather than fight with this one in the cold weather.

Would appreciate any guidance you can share. Thanks!
 

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true but faster to clean if needed sooner rather than later, those low priced carbs come from china so it takes awhile to get delivered.
i cleaned mine to working condition but ordered one as i needed a new bowl gasket, cheaper to buy the whole carb than parts for the carb.
fyi, remove rubber parts b4 spraying carb cleaner on them.
 

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true but faster to clean if needed sooner rather than later, those low priced carbs come from china so it takes awhile to get delivered.
i cleaned mine to working condition but ordered one as i needed a new bowl gasket, cheaper to buy the whole carb than parts for the carb.
fyi, remove rubber parts b4 spraying carb cleaner on them.
and be careful not to lose the rubber needle seat that's hard to see due to how small it is. without it you have a big leak
 

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Hey All,

I am considering searching for a new Carburetor for my '73 Ford (Jacobsen) 726. Where would I find the engine identification, so I know what I should be shopping for?

Was let down tonight, first night that I would have been able to blow some snow, but the Ford would not start. I did run it in warmer temps in preparation for the snow season, and it started right up. This time I could get it to chug along a bit only by introducing starting fluid. Was having issue even late last season where I needed to leave the choke partway 'on' to keep the engine going with the impeller clutch engaged. It would idle fine without choke, but any load was causing trouble. I'm sure that something is dirty in the carb, but for the cost of some of the new carbs I have been seeing online, it seems like it will be easier to just bolt on something new rather than fight with this one in the cold weather.

Would appreciate any guidance you can share. Thanks!
I could've swore that the old Fords had Briggs 170000 and 190000 snow engines... I guess they were the Gilson (?) models.

A alot of guys on here have had success with those chinese aftermarket carbs... I'm not one of them; I could never get them to run as good as the original after a thorough cleaning.

I recommend a rebuild kit as well as a float in case yours has some fluid sloshing around inside. Make sure the kit has the needle o-rings. If the float bowl has a drain, there is a rubber gasket on the drain that's worth replacing.

Also, when you mentioned "any load was causing trouble", it may be time to a valve job, decarb and head gasket (compression issue).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info and ideas everyone. If I can get the garage warmed up a bit I might tinker on the machine a little bit more. It was cold and dark and I was angry that it didn't start, so my mood was a little sour to spend much time on it last night. Calmer head now and maybe I'll pull the carb and see what I can do to clean/refresh first before tracking down a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, so far, thwarted in locating any type of engine ID tag. I did look at the diagram suggested in the link, and it seems like it could be very close. I do not have any type of 'air cleaner' in place. There is actually a small flat plate that used to be spring-loaded, that one could depress and it would block off the air flow into the throat of the carb. I can't seem to locate any diagrams that show that style of setup. Which is unfortunate as I did lose that spring a few seasons back, and have just run without it, blocking that plate into the 'open' position.


What I DID do was get the engine to fire briefly, but it ran poorly for the short time it ran at all.
I guess I need to see if I can find the ID number on the carb itself to aid in locating the appropriate service kit.
 
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