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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. I have an older ariens snowblower with a tecumseh carb. I bought this kit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141483704268

Anyways, carb kit is in and the sb starts. I have to prime and choke every time. At full throttle 3500rpms, if you engage the auger, it bogs and dies. If you operate the choke back and forth, it and engage the auger you can get it to keep running. Eventually it dies.

It runs fine with no auger. It idles ok but tries to die if you throttle it up.


I've played with both screws and can't get it figured out.

Ideas?
 

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Hi guys. I have an older ariens snowblower with a tecumseh carb. I bought this kit:

Carb Kit for Tecumseh Jiffy Ice Auger Model 30 and 31 Kit | eBay

Anyways, carb kit is in and the sb starts. I have to prime and choke every time. At full throttle 3500rpms, if you engage the auger, it bogs and dies. If you operate the choke back and forth, it and engage the auger you can get it to keep running. Eventually it dies.

It runs fine with no auger. It idles ok but tries to die if you throttle it up.


I've played with both screws and can't get it figured out.

Ideas?
1.5 turns out should get you in the ballpark. If it stalls when you engage the auger it is probably lean. Make sure you have good fuel flow to the carb. make sure the float is working correctly and check for vaccume leaks.
 

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Sounds like a lean condition. Why did you rebuild the carb in the first place? Reason I'm asking is there may be other issues. Are you sure there's no air leak, maybe around the intake gasket? Float level too high, not allowing the needle valve to open all the way? Did you clean ALL the holes out in the mixture screw?
Another thing. You can buy a new carb for about 20 bucks. Just installed one of them on a hm80 and it runs fine. Just did put it on a few days ago.
 

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You may have an issue with auger bearings, bent impeller shaft, etc. that is causing an abnormal load. Generally an engine will not stall engaging the auger if it is running at wide open throttle. With the engine off and the spark plug cable off, reach inside the chute and turn the impeller by hand. It should turn freely as should the impeller. If you feel it binding, you have a mechanical issue. MH
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. Carb was super gummed up and wouldnt start.

New fuel line and spark plug.

I put the card in a ultrasonic cleaner for days and ran it multiple time. All screws were removed and it was completely apart.

I'll check the main auger to see if it's free.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The auger moves but it is stiff. I will take it apart today and see what is binding it up.

The carb leaked fuel out of it overnight. frustrating as its got a new kit in it.....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sounds like a lean condition. Why did you rebuild the carb in the first place? Reason I'm asking is there may be other issues. Are you sure there's no air leak, maybe around the intake gasket? Float level too high, not allowing the needle valve to open all the way? Did you clean ALL the holes out in the mixture screw?
Another thing. You can buy a new carb for about 20 bucks. Just installed one of them on a hm80 and it runs fine. Just did put it on a few days ago.
Link to the carb you bought?
 

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The carb leaked fuel out of it overnight. frustrating as its got a new kit in it.....
Assuming it's a float type carb, you're at the needlevalve area. If the seal isn't good or installed incorrectly or the float is at the wrong height that can happen.
There can also be crap behind the welch plugs that can mess it up when the engine is running.

Just some thoughts.

PS I like to add a gasline shutoff valve on my machines. Prevents that accidental leakage from happening.
 

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Could you post the numbers off your engine so we know what your working with? This is a single stage snow blower? What model?
 

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You can get a brand spankin' new carb for about $20.. From ebay. Bolt it on and light it up.
 

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There should be numbers on the top of that carb. Should be next to the manifold.

We could use some more info here. This is a single stage blower with a two cycle engine? More pics? One of the blower? Model number of the blower itself?
 

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Partstree says obsolete.
Looks like you can get a'float type carb it possibly. Part # 297A?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
There should be numbers on the top of that carb. Should be next to the manifold.

We could use some more info here. This is a single stage blower with a two cycle engine? More pics? One of the blower? Model number of the blower itself?
Its a 2 stage blower with a 4 stroke engine. Ill have to search for a model # on the snowblower.
 

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I have the same carb on my old Toro S200 single stage. Look on the face of the carb near the choke plate for a stamped letter "F". If an "F" is present, the diaphragm goes on the carb body, then the gasket, then the cover plate. If no "F" , gasket goes on carb body, then the diaphragm, then the cover plate. The correct assembly is critical to operation.

The carb screw closest to the engine is the low speed adjustment and is set to give best running at idle speed. The screw nearest the choke plate is the high speed adjustment and is set to give best running at full throttle. Set the low speed first, around 1 to 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Below are some service manuals to help.

Engine Parts list-
http://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/Tecumseh/H30-35359P.pdf
Engine Service Manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf
Carb Diaphragm Install for TYPE-F Carb-
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Jacks-Parts-Lookup/Model-Diagram/TECUMSEH/127901/55063
Carb Service-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehcarburetormanual.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have the same carb on my old Toro S200 single stage. Look on the face of the carb near the choke plate for a stamped letter "F". If an "F" is present, the diaphragm goes on the carb body, then the gasket, then the cover plate. If no "F" , gasket goes on carb body, then the diaphragm, then the cover plate. The correct assembly is critical to operation.

The carb screw closest to the engine is the low speed adjustment and is set to give best running at idle speed. The screw nearest the choke plate is the high speed adjustment and is set to give best running at full throttle. Set the low speed first, around 1 to 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. Below are some service manuals to help.

Engine Parts list-
http://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/Tecumseh/H30-35359P.pdf
Engine Service Manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf
Carb Diaphragm Install for TYPE-F Carb-
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/Jacks-Parts-Lookup/Model-Diagram/TECUMSEH/127901/55063
Carb Service-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehcarburetormanual.pdf
Thanks. I have the diaphragm set correctly. Didnt know about that till I read about it in the tech manual.

I think Ill end up getting a new carb. This one was so gummed up who knows if I got all the crud out.

I just have to see if I can retro fit one of the float and bowl carbs onto it.
 

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Thanks. I have the diaphragm set correctly. Didnt know about that till I read about it in the tech manual.


I just have to see if I can retro fit one of the float and bowl carbs onto it.
In my last pic up above the diagram shows a float type'carb. Also shows a diaphragm carb so ther must be one out there somewhere. Hope you find it. Let us know what happens.
 
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