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Hi everyone -
I have an old 1971 Ariens (910995?) - 7hp, 24" - my first snowblower purchase ever, bought this season. Been a decent machine - starts on 2nd or 3rd pull consistently. However, couple weeks ago when I was blowing - the machine died. Found that the carb had rattled loose where it mounts to the block. Popped the aircleaner shroud off and tightened up the two philips screws and away I went. However, it has become loose again...

So how does a guy keep those screws tight? Loctite? Split washers? Weld the **** thing on?

Thanks!
 

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I had an old carb similar to yours, with the same problem. I wound up taking the carb off, and putting new lock washers on the second flange. Locktite wouldn't hurt, also new nuts, and bolts, and good gaskets.
Sid
 

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Like people have said...

If the threads are OK and things are just vibrating out... use any product that claims to be a "non-permanent thread locker"
(so you can get them out again later to work on the carb if you need to).
Don't go crazy with the stuff... just a little drop.

Don't use anything that claims to be "permanent".... you'll probably not be able to remove the carb to fix it later.

Loctite is one trusted brand.... they have "Red" and "Blue".... one is permanent.. the other is non-permanent.
It's a bit confusing because the plastic tube is red even for Loctite "blue"!!
Get the "Blue" non-permanent type.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/threadlockers.shtml

Permatex is also a trusted brand.
Once again there is the "red" type and "blue" type.
Get the "Blue" non-permanent type.
Once again the color of the plastic tube can be confusing! The "Red" type is in a blue plastic tube!
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/thread-compounds/threadlockers

There are other cheaper generic brands too. Harbor Freight for example.

If the threads are stripped and trashed.... insert a helicoil to replace the threads

This video came from simply googling for Helicoils. He's working with a two-stroke chainsaw so his carb is tiny.


By the way, things should run much better when the carb is properly snugged into the gaskets and the screws/bolts are tight (but not too tight).
When a carb starts to come loose, air creeps in through the gap and the fuel mixture runs too lean (too much air).

You can test the seal by squirting carb-cleaner at the join..... if the carb-cleaner makes its way into the engine, it will change how the engine runs for a few seconds and you know you have a leak.
If the engine does not change the way it runs, then the seal is probably good and the carb-cleaner is not sneaking through the gap.

This works because carb-cleaner is highly flammable.... and for that reason... take care... it's highly flammable! I just use a short squirt... not half a can!
 
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