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I guess my first question would be as follows;

Is the piston rod mounted down or up????

Mounted down with the boot and rod on the bottom it would keep
the water from pooling on the shock absorber wiper seal and it would drain away

With the rod mounted upright the water would pool on the shoulder of of the
shock absorber between the rod and inside the boot and the edge of the shock
absorbers barrel housing.

Perhaps a simple change of shock absorber brands to a higher quality shock absorber from a motor cycle brand would solve this issue since it is a "sealed gas" operated shock absorber????

If the machine is out of warranty I would not hesitate to take the old shock absorber to an automotive parts supplier to find an identical replacement for it as a shock like this is not a one all one only for a beautiful blue snow blower

All they need to do is match the barrel diameter, extended length, the rod diameter and thread size and the bushing eye diameter.

It could be as simple as finding an equivalent go cart or golf cart shock absorber for these beautiful blue snow blowers to replace the faulty ones for under $80.00.
The piston rod is mounted down. It seems to be easy to find aftermarket shocks with the same specs, the problem is finding aftermarket shocks with the "lock" feature. You can adjust the shock however you want by depressing the handlebar mounted lever. After you adjust it to your desired setting, you release the lever, and it locks to this position.
Many people have experienced both shock and lock failure. Others have experienced shock failure only, while others have experienced lock failure only.

The main issue is this is a $300 +/- dealer only item to replace. In all honesty, this item shouldn't be priced at more than $40.

Item 3 in the diagram below is the shock.

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The 1028 would be fantastic; however, the 624 is the absolute top of my budget, so I think I'll have to rule out the 1028. I don't have a very large driveway (25'x35') and I don't mind taking my time cutting through the heavy stuff. After watching a few videos on the 624 I think it will fit my needs. I'm in no rush to get it right now, I can use my Husky for the remainder of March and early April storms (fingers crossed no April storms this year). I just put down a deposit on the 624 so I'm pretty confident it'll be chewing through the snow come next winter. Thanks for your input and my apologies for hijacking this thread with my questions. :)
I would seriously go with the Honda 724. The Honda 724's also offer trigger steering.
While I love my Yamaha, replacement parts are only available at Yamaha Snow dealers (not all Yamaha dealers sell snowblowers) and parts are $$$$$$$$$$. Honda parts are only $$$$ 馃榿.

One of the pluses with the Yamaha are battery start (lower end Honda does not have this) and articulated chute (lower end Honda does not have this)
 

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The 1028 would be fantastic; however, the 624 is the absolute top of my budget, so I think I'll have to rule out the 1028. I don't have a very large driveway (25'x35') and I don't mind taking my time cutting through the heavy stuff. After watching a few videos on the 624 I think it will fit my needs. I'm in no rush to get it right now, I can use my Husky for the remainder of March and early April storms (fingers crossed no April storms this year). I just put down a deposit on the 624 so I'm pretty confident it'll be chewing through the snow come next winter. Thanks for your input and my apologies for hijacking this thread with my questions. :)
You can also add the euro front scoop or the Yamaha drift cutter to increase the snow intake of the 624.

Is there a reason you are not looking at the Honda's as well? For me, the electronic shoot control is a necessity for my situation (which the lower end Honda's don't have), but them being sold in the states as well makes parts much easier to come by.

Also note that the 624 doesn't come with extra shear pins. As the dealer to include an auger kit as well as impeller (they are different).

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I would seriously go with the Honda 724. The Honda 724's also offer trigger steering.
While I love my Yamaha, replacement parts are only available at Yamaha Snow dealers (not all Yamaha dealers sell snowblowers) and parts are $$$$$$$$$$. Honda parts are only $$$$ :D.

One of the pluses with the Yamaha are battery start (lower end Honda does not have this) and articulated chute (lower end Honda does not have this)
Thanks for the suggestion! I'm not entirely committed to the Yamaha yet. I put a deposit down to reserve one but it's 100% refundable if I choose not to buy it. I did briefly look at Honda but for some reason didn't give it a full consideration. Maybe I will go back and think about it a bit more. Both snow blowers are about the same price but I didn't realize parts for Yamaha would be more expensive - definitely something to consider. Both models are currently out of stock at local dealers so I have some time to think it over. To be honest, I do like the fact the Honda has an extra 1 HP. I wonder how much difference it would make? I have heard (anecdotally) that newer Hondas are not a reliable as their older models. I don't know how much truth there is about that.
 

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I guess my first question would be as follows;

Is the piston rod mounted down or up????

Mounted down with the boot and rod on the bottom it would keep
the water from pooling on the shock absorber wiper seal and it would drain away

With the rod mounted upright the water would pool on the shoulder of of the
shock absorber between the rod and inside the boot and the edge of the shock
absorbers barrel housing.

Perhaps a simple change of shock absorber brands to a higher quality shock absorber from a motor cycle brand would solve this issue since it is a "sealed gas" operated shock absorber????

If the machine is out of warranty I would not hesitate to take the old shock absorber to an automotive parts supplier to find an identical replacement for it as a shock like this is not a one all one only for a beautiful blue snow blower

All they need to do is match the barrel diameter, extended length, the rod diameter and thread size and the bushing eye diameter.

It could be as simple as finding an equivalent go cart or golf cart shock absorber for these beautiful blue snow blowers to replace the faulty ones for under $80.00.
It's not that simple. The shock is not a traditional one in that it's not pressurized. It's just a rod in a tube with a locking mechanism. I can't see how there would be anything aftermarket that would allow the use of the cable trigger lock.

Here is the shock mounted:
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle


Here you can see the rubber boot lifted. On mine when I lifted this boot for the first time, a bunch of water came out so it was holding water and each time I raise or lower the unit, I bet water was getting sucked in:


Here's the shock removed from the machine and closeup of the locking mechanism:



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I bought my Yamaha in December of 2017 and I've already replaced the one tilt assembly and in need of another. I got 2 years our of the shocks. It's a $300 price tag for parts only. I love the machine other than this repeat issue.

This one is holding fine the issue is it doesnt assist. Pulling the trigger and lifting up on the handles the track should go down to the ground instead im having to shove it down with my foot. This is exactly how my last shock started to fail before it no longer held locked.

I plan to see the local dealer tomorrow and see about getting an appointment to get it replaced. Im just concerned this will continue to be a repeat issue. Once the machine is out of warranty I will have to pay out of pocket.
 

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If you are looking at a Honda, I can testify the new HS724 are good. That is from a very happy YS624T owner. I can't compare current Yamaha but that old one was and still is a beast. Its still the better engine over the Honda 7 hp (it lugs down but does not stall)

Our nearest Yamaha blower dealer is 600 miles away in Canada so that was not an option.

I got the Honda for the electric start and the trigger control. I had a disk repair some years back and the recoil pull on a cold start (out in a shed) is hard on the back (braced as best I can) and the body English to turn had gotten harder,.

That said, the old YS has a better gripping track.

That said the Honda throws snow further (not a big need but its impressive and sometimes useful.

I like the speed control. If the engine bogs (really deep wet or packed snow) you just adjust the speed down and you can pick a speed as fast as it can without bogging the engine.

I liked the control layout of the YS624, I removed the one interlock and I just used the shifter to neutral to stop it. Honda is right chute control and that is hard for me to adjust to. The electric chute works fine but its slower than they hand crank of the YS. It better than the old Honda with the low down chute control.

Frame wise I think the Honda is as solid as the Yamaha.

Price vs price and capability I don't think you can go wrong with the Honda.
 

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I bought my Yamaha in December of 2017 and I've already replaced the one tilt assembly and in need of another. I got 2 years our of the shocks. It's a $300 price tag for parts only. I love the machine other than this repeat issue.

Do you still have the 1st old assembly? Maybe you could cut it apart to see what caused it to fail. It would be interesting to see how they work inside since others have also experienced this failure.
 

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I bought my Yamaha in December of 2017 and I've already replaced the one tilt assembly and in need of another. I got 2 years our of the shocks. It's a $300 price tag for parts only. I love the machine other than this repeat issue.
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With the two weldments exposed like that in the cross members you have enough room for an inexpensive trailer tongue jack and some weldments to attach it to those mounting yokes.

The least expensive screw jack I have seen is $30.00USD and it has a base tube that can accept either a landing pad or a wheel set and you could have a welder fabricate the weldment to attach the landing pad to the base yoke and the triangle weldment on the outer tube for the upper yoke and then the screw jack would raise and lower the snow blower using the hand crank. The hand crank has a large knob that rotates as the crank is rotating to spin the screw so it is glove/mitten friendly.

I have had the same screw jack on my dump trailer for 10 years and all I use is a little Fluid Film on it to lubricate the worm by spraying it in the barrel using the red tube nozzle extension.
 
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