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The small engine with square head drain bolts respond very well to another clever process. Grab ye a fist full of metric and us box end or sockets about the right size. Chances are you will find one that fits the evil little booger like it was made to. That should easily break it loose without needing heat. I never even try open ends anymore on those just grab the suitable box end and off it comes.
If you do tear up the square portion taking it off by all means (if it's a beast to get at due to obstructions) go buy a replacement at the hardware store. Also do put it back on there using only your fingertips or as I call it "Best Limp Wristed Style" so it doesn't happen again.
 

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As other people have said, you need one wrench to secure the small pipe (pipe wrench or vice grips) and another to loosen the cap (turning counter-clockwise ... the opposite way). Once you are done draining the oil, put Blue Loctite, pipe thread sealant or (my fave) Teflon tape on the threads. This will keep the cap leak free and (especially the tape) will make it easier to remove next time.


If you think the cap is rusted onto the pipe, try a squirt of PB Blaster on the threads. Let it sit for an hour … or overnight. Then try again to loosen. The fact that these pieces extend away from the machine improves your access and makes the whole job a lot easier. It's also easier to place a container behind the machine to catch the oil.


Folks, I see everyone here is trying to helpful, and that is to be commended. But come on. Changing oil in a snowblower with an extended drain plug is the easiest oil change you can perform on any piece of machinery humanity has ever created. If you are struggling with this … well, I don't know what to tell you. Just be sure to choose a profession other than mechanic.


Not trying to be mean, but if you find this task to be difficult, ask a neighbor, friend or return it to the dealer for proper service.
 

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Yep :eek: I struggled with taking the cap off the first time. I didn't expect it to be loc-tited on and the tube from the engine not . :confused:

But , then again it DID take me a few tries before I passed this class :eek:





 

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When you do get out, I HIGHLY recommend taking a trip down the plumbing aisle at your local hardware store and putting a ball valve on like this. They run around $10-15 but IMO, well worth it if you want to do regular maintainance. Then I just put the orig plug back in the end to keep water out of it. Easy peasy...
Thanks Ray......Now that I can live with....
 

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For people who've installed a ball-valve, does it restrict the flow of oil at all? I think oil in these machines with the tiny drain pipe flow poorly to begin with. I'm not sure I'd want to add something to restrict this even further ... even if the end result is more convenient.
 

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For people who've installed a ball-valve, does it restrict the flow of oil at all? I think oil in these machines with the tiny drain pipe flow poorly to begin with. I'm not sure I'd want to add something to restrict this even further ... even if the end result is more convenient.
The ball valve opens up to pretty much the full inside diameter of the pipe. Just run your engine for a few minutes to get the oil nice and hot, open the fill cap when draining to keep it from forming a vacuum and it flows right out no problem.
 

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For people who've installed a ball-valve, does it restrict the flow of oil at all? I think oil in these machines with the tiny drain pipe flow poorly to begin with. I'm not sure I'd want to add something to restrict this even further ... even if the end result is more convenient.
It's interesting that you should mention poor flow and slow draining because I added a "Drainzit" hose to mine and yesterday used it for the first time and it sure was slow. :(. I had time to go make a cup coffee, and put a few tools away but I must say it's convenient to just be able to put it into a container and put a cap on it after so I still think it's worth it. Kind of needed the coffee anyway :cool:
 

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Folks, I see everyone here is trying to helpful, and that is to be commended. But come on. Changing oil in a snowblower with an extended drain plug is the easiest oil change you can perform on any piece of machinery humanity has ever created. If you are struggling with this … well, I don't know what to tell you. Just be sure to choose a profession other than mechanic.

Not trying to be mean, but if you find this task to be difficult, ask a neighbor, friend or return it to the dealer for proper service.
Beginning of you post is all good advise, this is unnecessary. We try to help each other here no matter what the skill level.
 

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Beginning of you post is all good advise, this is unnecessary. We try to help each other here no matter what the skill level.
Couldn’t get the nut off without the whole drain pipe turning….tried all methods here. Ended up flipping the machine into service position removing the pipe and clamping it in a vice to get the nut off. Ridiculous malarkey. Surely must be a better way to design this.
 

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Couldn’t get the nut off without the whole drain pipe turning….tried all methods here. Ended up flipping the machine into service position removing the pipe and clamping it in a vice to get the nut off. Ridiculous malarkey. Surely must be a better way to design this.
You need to hold the pipe with a wrench across the flats. Failing that, even a vise-grip or channel-lock pliers.
 

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1979 (or so) Toro 724 (38050) and 2018 Ariens Platinum 24
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To clarify: There is clearly a crush washer on the plug . . . The other end (that goes into the block) is a tapered pipe thread, which seals itself, as well as not presenting any surface on which a washer could be used . . .
 

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Most all square drain plugs are standard 3/8" or 1/2" sizes. Use a ratchet adapter and a wrench to loosen the square plug and you won't round over the corners.
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This adapter is 1/2" to 3/8" and can be used to loosen a 1/2" square drain plug.
If you want to use a bigger wrench, use the 1/2" to 3/4" adapter. That way you can use a 3/4" wrench.
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I would remove both pipe and plug and separate them in the vise. When you reinstall the pipe, put a little red Loctite on the engine end of the pipe and thread sealant on the plug end of the pipe and you won't have this issue again.
Or better yet install a Drainzit hose.
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Most all square drain plugs are standard 3/8" or 1/2" sizes. Use a ratchet adapter and a wrench to loosen the square plug and you won't round over the corners.
View attachment 197833
This adapter is 1/2" to 3/8" and can be used to loosen a 1/2" square drain plug.
If you want to use a bigger wrench, use the 1/2" to 3/4" adapter. That way you can use a 3/4" wrench.
View attachment 197835
I would remove both pipe and plug and separate them in the vise. When you reinstall the pipe, put a little red Loctite on the engine end of the pipe and thread sealant on the plug end of the pipe and you won't have this issue again.
Or better yet install a Drainzit hose.
View attachment 197834
winner winner chicken dinner

interesting 7 year old thread
hope you all didn't strip yours.....
 

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all done w oil change. I cannot see that drainzit makes a tube that fits my Ariens engine. Installed tube nice and tight. added Teflon tape to nut. Went to several places for a crush washer...apparently my nut is not designed for one. Manual could be better written. Thanks for help and feedback all.
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