[tpenfield]

Greetings,

As I mentioned in some of my other recent threads, I am now the proud owner of a Toro 1128 OXE (Model 38654, S/N 31000XXXX) 'sans' engine. I have bought an LCT 369cc snowblower engine online and will be mating them up.

.

.

.

.
The story I got from the PO, was that he used the engine for another need, but I cannot imagine he felt that this machine was his front-line piece of equipment. Functionally, it seems to be all there, but definitely needs some love. . . mostly rust removal, painting, and general lubrication.

We shall see.

My first check was the engine mounting holes/studs. Width-wise the existing studs are fine, but they are about 11/16" short on the depth (front-back). Additionally, it looks like the engine would really like to be mounted an inch or 2 more forward based on the crankcase & shaft dimensions. So, it looks like I'll be re-doing the mounting holes.

Here is a picture of my checking of the mounting hole pattern - engine vs. chassis.
.

.
This is my first hands-on view of a Toro PowerMax . . . and I had originally thought that the re-engineering from the PowerShift years thinned out metal and 'cheapened' the machine. After having to load/unload it and muscle this thing around, I am impressed with how heavy duty and durable this machine really is. H-E-A-V-Y . . . even considering it's a larger machine. . . and that's without the engine.

Since the engine will not readily mount, I think I'll test run the engine on a bench and then go about disassembling this machine for some restoration work.

I'm excited about the 11 HP, trigger steering, the joystick chute control, along with the light. I may add a tachometer and a few more lights, considering I have a 60 charger system on the new LCT engine.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

I love a good show and tell

Let the repowering begin !

 

[tpenfield]

The engine runs . . .
.

.
I ran the engine for about 30 minutes just to check it out and test the charging system output. These LCT throttles don't do much . . . full 'slow' was 3200 RPM and full 'fast' was 3800 RPM.

The charging system put out a nice sine wave as per my oscilloscope . . .

.
I was getting about 12.7 volts AC. I connected the AC/DC converter that bought for this project and it is getting a solid DC at around 12 volts, but I have yet to put a load on it. I'll probably connect the light to give it a load.

 

[sledman8002002]

Additionally, it looks like the engine would really like to be mounted an inch or 2 more forward

That would be a plus IMO. The chassis seems identical to my 1028 and I immediately noticed I'd be adding weight to the bucket on first use. That may resolve having to add any weight.
Since you plan on doing some restoration, I'd get all the mounting and fitment taken care beforehand.

 

[carguy20]

I look forward to your progress.

 

[tpenfield]

I'm thinking that I will get the engine mounted, pulleys sorted out and then disassemble the machine for restoration. That way I am doing any drilling/cutting/retrofit before re-painting.

I also need to get a set of pulleys, since the originals are 1" shaft and the LCT engine is 3/4". Measuring the existing pulleys I get"

Drive = 2.75"
Engine - Auger/Impeller = 3.125"
Auger Shaft pulley = 8"

So, it looks like the pulley (gear) ratio for the impeller is 8/3.125 = 2.56 (2.56 engine : 1 impeller) seems a bit high, but not overly so. 3,800 RPM spec on the engine would result in 1,484 RPM of the impeller. (1200 - 1500 RPM is typical)

I still have not gotten the engine to idle at the slow throttle setting . . . runs 3200 RPM at 'slow' and 3700+ at 'fast'. I believe the spec idle is supposed to be 2,000 ish RPM. Just wondering if there is a linkage setting

 

[tpenfield]

Engine Mounting Design Work . . .

That old saying, if it doesn't even work on paper, then . . .

Today, I did a whole bunch of measurements to see what the engine mounting will look like.
.

The shaft height off the deck is fine @ 5.25" The front studs would want to go forward 0.25" and the rear studs would be 4.06" behind the front studs. So, I'll have to see what I can do in terms of slotting the existing front stud holes, since the movement needed is only 0.25". The rear studs will be aft of their current location as shown.

The output shaft is a wee bit short for the pulley assembly, as are many of these engines. It looks like I'll want to add a 3/4" x 1" spacer on the end of the shaft to cover the distance needed.

As far as pulleys . . . the Impeller/Auger pulley will probably be a double grove type so as to extend out with a solid piece - TB Wood #2BK3034. I think this is the same pulley that I used on my Troy-Bilt repowering. The drive pulley will be a single TB Wood pulley (#AK2834). I'll need to 'shave' a bit off the hub of the drive pulley to get the alignment just right and also need a thin spacer at the base of the shaft to get everything to fit tight and in alignment. The key for the auger pulley will have about 1.25" of 'bite' along its length and another 1" will be the spacer. The end bolt should snug everything up.

At least it works on paper . . . we shall see what surprises might be lurking when I try to install the engine mount studs in their new locations.

 

[paulm12]

so the shaft is short? or just the wanted shaft OD part is too short?

 

[tpenfield]

The shaft seems a bit short, but I have not seen any that are the 3+" that are really needed, This one is about 1/2" shorter that some re-powers that I've done.

I think the original engine has/had a 2-1/2" shaft. This one is 2-1/8"

Not sure what "wanted shaft OD part" means though.

 

[paulm12]

sorry Ted, just wondering if the spacer is solid or if the crankshaft is just smaller ID for the last portion.

 

[tpenfield]

Ok, got it.

I have not bought the spacer yet, but I plan on using a similar thing as I did on my Troy-Bilt, which is pictured below.

The spacer was 3/4" dia and 3/4" in length and held on by the end bolt. I may need a 3/4" diameter by 1" for the LCT engine since the shaft is 2.125". In referencing my thread on the Troy-Bilt/Briggs 305cc, the shaft length was 2.25" . . . so not much difference.

The spacer essentially extends the shaft a bit, but does not have the slot for the key. The auger pulley will have about 1.25" worth of key mating it to the shaft, so that should be plenty.

 

[tpenfield]

I am not using a shaft sleeve adapter if that is what you are asking . . . The original pulleys are 1" bore, but I''m buying 3/4" bore pulleys to fit the LCT engine. The 'spacer' in this context is really to extend the shaft, not adjust the diameter.

 

[paulm12]

thanks

 

[tpenfield]

Update:

I took the belly pans off the chassis to get a look at the drive & trigger steer mechanisms.

Everything looks OK . . . It all needed a bit of lubrication but it seems to be all there and working fine.

Modifying the engine mount is going to take some work. The studs are pressed into a backing plate and it looks like everything has got to come out of the chassis in order to remove the backing plate. I may cut the studs off and drill out the remnants, since I have to drill all new holes.

 

[paulm12]

yeah, looks good under there. How are the axle bearings? And I think you are right on that backing plate and studs, cutting and drilling out may be easier.

 

[tpenfield]

The axle bearings seem to be in good shape - very little play. The impeller bearing has just a wee bit of play . . . maybe 0.050" . . . about like my PowerShift 824. I may try to go with a roller bearing retrofit for the impeller bearing.

The chute control works fine and is in good shape. Not sure it would need any lubrication - the chute pivot gears are the FRP molded type.

 

[paulm12]

good to hear on the bearings. Though I use the OEM style impeller bushings on my replacements. I haven't worked on those chute controls yet, but the manuals do not call out for any lube.

tx

 

[tpenfield]

Quick Update:

I am still waiting on the pulleys, but I was able to remove the existing engine mount studs from the chassis without cutting. So, I put the engine in place for a test fitting.

.

.

I located the engine in the place of the existing forward stud holes . . . it still needs to go forward about 1/4" . . . maybe 5/16".
.

.
More to come, once I get the pulleys and the related hardware for the shaft.

 

[oneacer]

Looking good ......