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Discussion Starter #1
My Toro stopped and had no spark after.
Removed flywheel and check condenser points gap, .025. Set to .02 and cleaned
Ohmeter from HT to coil block was open. Cut an inch off and reattached to spark plug boot and now have 7.3K ohms.
Still no spark (checked plug seems ok with ohm meter)
What should the readings be on the ignition coil primary and HT?
 

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Not what you want, but I'd scrap the points and put on a electronic ignition module, Mega Fire, Nova.
 

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This is the only info I could find about Tecumseh coils.


Is the kill wire disconnected? Could be grounded?
 
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Check to see if the Flywheel magnets are intact, and in the correct position.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is an older unit . The points and coil are under the fly wheel. The magnets are in place. I disconnected the ground wire where the throttle grounds out when slowed down, Anyone know how to evaluate the condenser itself?


If the coil was outside of the flywheel, I would have put an electronic ignition in. I will buy the parts I need but want to make sure it is not a wiring problem. I'll look into the other modules
 

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It is an older unit . The points and coil are under the fly wheel. The magnets are in place. I disconnected the ground wire where the throttle grounds out when slowed down, Anyone know how to evaluate the condenser itself?


If the coil was outside of the flywheel, I would have put an electronic ignition in. I will buy the parts I need but want to make sure it is not a wiring problem. I'll look into the other modules
I bet your points are corroded/pitted; you're not going to get a spark with bad points.

I've had good luck removing them and sanding them until the pits are gone and the faces are completely shiny & uniform.

be sure to not rotate the magneto...if you do, you'll have to reset the spark advance; that's "fun".
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys, been too cold to work on it. But I did clean the points and when they make contact i was getting a continuity reading with my meter. I read some of those newer modules don't last not sure. I'll check it out when the weather gets a little warmer.
 

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Thanks guys, been too cold to work on it. But I did clean the points and when they make contact i was getting a continuity reading with my meter. I read some of those newer modules don't last not sure. I'll check it out when the weather gets a little warmer.
We look forward to hearing from you in April.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update

So weather decent and I think I found the problem. But I have a question.
I pulled the wire connectors off the back of the key switch so I can testy the switch better with wires off.

At first I wasn't getting continuity, I cleaned spade connections (on the switch) and now switch works.
The wires to the switch:
There are 2 spade connectors, one has 2 wires the other one has one wire. One wire has broken off and I am not sure which side to hook it up to? The single wire spade or the 2 wire spade?
Anyone have this machine? can you check on each side of the switch please.
 

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This wiring diagram shows two wires on each side of the kill switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This wiring diagram shows two wires on each side of the kill switch.
Thank you for that, I did hook it up that way. Still no spark. I wonder if I messed up hooking up the kill wire.
I noticed my key switch when turned on there is no continuity, and OFF there is continuity. Are these normally-closed key switches?
 

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Are these normally-closed key switches?
Yes, the contacts are closed in the off position (killing spark) , open in the on position. Are you checking for spark with the throttle up or off? There is a set of contacts on the carb that kill the spark when throttle is moved to off, the key switch is redundant and basically used as a safety. I'm not sure on the 5/24, but on my 8/24, if the auger is engaged or the transmission in gear, no spark unless the safety handle is squeezed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes, the contacts are closed in the off position (killing spark) , open in the on position. Are you checking for spark with the throttle up or off? There is a set of contacts on the carb that kill the spark when throttle is moved to off, the key switch is redundant and basically used as a safety. I'm not sure on the 5/24, but on my 8/24, if the auger is engaged or the transmission in gear, no spark unless the safety handle is squeezed.
Yes the 524 is the same. I put throttle full open.

There is a screw with a plastic grommet that the ground kill wire attaches to. Then a grey wire from the controls attaches to that also. what I forgot is wether those 2 wires are in contact all the time or is the grey wire isolated via the grommet. not sure I am explaining correctly.

Maybe I'll isolate it tomorrow and retry.
OK question: If I remove the kill wire under the carb, do I connect the grey to anything to test for spark?
 

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Leve the grey connector with the 2 wires unplugged, those are for the ignition switch and safety switch. Shutting the throttle off will kill the engine. Yes I know, not the best, but if she runs...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Merry Christmas everyone. My daughter moved in while fixing her house and I cant even reach the blower to work on. Oh well.
In Jerusalem, Christmas was a lot less commercial and more spiritual and actually very joyous.



Longing for the old days.
 
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