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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Today I picked up this 30+ year old Toro

Model: Toro 724 - 38050 Ser 9000953
Engine: Tecumseh H70-130176D Ser 81320
Connecting Rod: Tecumseh 32591C eBay: $18

Photos:https://goo.gl/photos/pUg518MMahSJteiQ9https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipOmru4EfhOZckmxMPwMYpzDy4n4f6GDjH2vJOy2

As you can see, the case is cracked where the electric starter used to be.
The previous owner salvaged the starter for his other Toro. He was running it last week when it suddenly started blowing smoke and seized.

I have zero hands-on experience with 4 stroke engines but have watched lots of videos lately. My best guess is that the connecting rod shattered.

If that's true, a generic replacement is about $18 shipped on eBay.

Question: can JB Weld be used to fix the crack in the crankcase cover. I am hoping it should be fairly low pressure and reasonable temperature in there and that all it needs to do is seal well enough to keep the oil in place... does that sound about right? I've seen videos of people doing that and posted one below.

Any opinions would be welcome.

Links for reference:
Engine:
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/Jacks-Parts-Lookup/Model-Diagram/tecumseh/26253/88454

Snowblower:
Toro 38050 Parts List and Diagram - (1000001-1999999)(1981) : eReplacementParts.com

Connecting Rod:
Rod Connecting Tecumseh Rotary 6769 Prime Line 7 03864 Sunbelt SB 6769 | eBay

Links to DonyBoy73 repair videos:

JB Weld Crankcase:
https://youtu.be/zb-kXty8bTY?t=324
 

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It might work, or you can go to Harbor Freight and get a 212cc engine for $99. Remember, if the rod got seized and broke, other things are probably going bad in that engine too.
 

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I put a Harbor Freight Predator 212 on a Toro 724 this week. In my opinion the engine swap could not have been simpler. I had to buy four longer bolts for the tractor to engine attachment. On mine, the output shaft was the exact same size and location. Pulley swapped directly over and used existing belts. I did have to buy a new bolt to attach the old pulley to the Predator shaft because it was a different width.
Seriously Eeezee Peezee.

Oh, I also spent some extra time extending the more convenient Toro key switch wires so you didn't have to use the engine mounted kill switch to turn it off.

Modifying the crank handle location due to interference with the Honda clone valve cover however took a bit of creative fabrication.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It might work, or you can go to Harbor Freight and get a 212cc engine for $99. Remember, if the rod got seized and broke, other things are probably going bad in that engine too.
Thanks for the pragmatic and realistic answer.
I guess you mean these Predators (presumably Honda clone)..

Gas Engines – Save on Replacement Engines at Harbor Freight

Looks like they've gone up $20 to $119
Or were you thinking of a different engine perhaps?
If so.. can you add a link please.

The Snow engines from brandnewengines seem quite a bit more expensive.
Briggs & Stratton Snow Engines


I need to go find and watch videos and do some research. I'm sure there are good repower threads and videos explaining how to do this for a newbie like myself.
Hopefully it's a straight swap with matching bolt holes and shafts etc.
Who knows... maybe 4 bolts and a couple of pulleys and you're done.

Having said that, one day I *DO* want to play with fixing up an engine.. just for the learning experience and the satisfaction of spilling oil all over the place. ;-) Maybe I should do both.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I put a Harbor Freight Predator 212 on a Toro 724 this week. In my opinion the engine swap could not have been simpler. I had to buy four longer bolts for the tractor to engine attachment. On mine, the output shaft was the exact same size and location. Pulley swapped directly over and used existing belts. I did have to buy a new bolt to attach the old pulley to the Predator shaft because it was a different width.
Seriously Eeezee Peezee.

Oh, I also spent some extra time extending the more convenient Toro key switch wires so you didn't have to use the engine mounted kill switch to turn it off.

Modifying the crank handle location due to interference with the Honda clone valve cover however took a bit of creative fabrication.
This came in while I was typing message #5
So it sounds like it's so easy even I can do it.

Good idea to avoid that kill switch on the engine. I've been whining about them over on the MTD thread.
Get some cheese and crackers and enjoy the whine.
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/craftsman-snowblowers/75921-repower-trac-rebuild-craftsman-trac-1987-5-23-536884810-5-5hp-honda-c.html

When you say modifying the crank handle, what did you do?
 

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Yea, those Predators are the engines I was speaking of. The 212cc is often on sale or has coupons for $99. The 'normal' sale price is around $120-$130.
 

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Good idea to avoid that kill switch on the engine. I've been whining about them over on the MTD thread.
I soldered the Toro kill switch into the Chonda circuit so that you could use either, but the handlebar version is much more convenient.
When you say modifying the crank handle, what did you do?
The Chondas cylinder and head angle off the the left and occupy space that was available on the L-head engine. The shaft for chute rotation passes thru this once clear space. It truly is one of the more common snags with a Predator swap depending on how the OEM chute rotation was setup. I should post a pic, but basically a modification of the bracket to clear the engine is what I did.

Yea, those Predators are the engines I was speaking of. The 212cc is often on sale or has coupons for $99. The 'normal' sale price is around $120-$130.
They seem to be more strict about following the fine print in the coupons excluding the Predators. The do go on sale for $99 3 or 4 times a year.
 

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on my toro 824, i did not have to modify the chute crank. i did have to put new belts on because the crankshaft sits lower and get a sleeve for the pulley but thats it, otherwise it was a direct swap
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)

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Today we have a complete sub-forum on "re-powering".
Re-Powering - Snowblower Forum : Snow Blower Forums
You will find many threads where members used this engine.
I dont remember them ever selling for more than $119, but it probably has said "on sale" at this price.

Jackmels posted a code a month ago for $99, but it expired yesterday. I'm not sure if that worked for in-store pickup.
 

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If you look in the back of magazines like Popular Science and Handyman - you will find 20% off coupons and special offers. I see one in there for the 212cc right now for $99. You might also take a look on your local craigslist and make sure you can't snag something that has a different problem other than the engine to grab for parts. For instance I got a power washer with a Honda GX engine for less than $50 and it worked out great. Other people say theirs has "carb problems" quite often - that would be a good grab.....
 

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i payed 20 for a gx200 once, only thing i had to do to it was replace the sump cover(the screws that held the pump on were stripped) but i had a used cover in stock
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the buying recommendations. I'll check out the re-powering thread too.

I just called Harbor Freight online number and told them a tale of woe regarding the expired coupon code. Their call center gave me the engine for $99.99 plus $7.25 tax and $6.99 shipping. (I should have said $99 even but I said $99.99). I thought that was pretty decent of them.

So I've got an engine on its way!

I think I will go ahead and take a peek inside the old Tecumseh and see if it looks OK except for the (anticipated) connecting rod issue. Maybe I'll then try some JB Weld and see if I can Frankenstein the case back to life. Nothing to lose. It's a great low-risk way to learn and to make all my newbie mistakes on a "disposable" engine.

Thanks everyone... I'll keep you posted with my usual overkill on documentation and pictures as I re-power this machine and hack the old engine back together.

Wish me luck!
 

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More than likely the reason it chucked the rod is due to the fact it lacked oil/lubrication and the rod seized to the crank which is what breaks them most often - or it over-reved and let go. If the crank is toast your fighting a losing battle on cost.....
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Thanks for all the buying recommendations. I'll check out the re-powering thread too.

I just called Harbor Freight online number and told them a tale of woe regarding the expired coupon code. Their call center gave me the engine for $99.99 plus $7.25 tax and $6.99 shipping. (I should have said $99 even but I said $99.99). I thought that was pretty decent of them.

So I've got an engine on its way!

I think I will go ahead and take a peek inside the old Tecumseh and see if it looks OK except for the (anticipated) connecting rod issue. Maybe I'll then try some JB Weld and see if I can Frankenstein the case back to life. Nothing to lose. It's a great low-risk way to learn and to make all my newbie mistakes on a "disposable" engine.

Thanks everyone... I'll keep you posted with my usual overkill on documentation and pictures as I re-power this machine and hack the old engine back together.

Wish me luck!
The sales folks weren't doing me any favours.

Current coupon shows $99.99 - Expires 1/31/2016

This link will change over time as their offers change... but at the time of this post, the $99.99 coupon is halfway down on the right hand side.

Predator for $99.99:
6.5 HP (212cc) OHV Horizontal Shaft Gas Engine EPA/CARB

Coupons:
Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Coupon number: 39431263
Standard Emissions - Item: 69730
CA Emissions - Item: 69727
Expires: 1/31/2016
 

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Question: can JB Weld be used to fix the crack in the crankcase cover. I am hoping it should be fairly low pressure and reasonable temperature in there and that all it needs to do is seal well enough to keep the oil in place... does that sound about right? I've seen videos of people doing that and posted one below.
I've done quite a few of them that way. It works well. I can't see your pics but if you have a large hole pop rivet some fine aluminum mesh over the hole first to give the JB weld something to stick to. If it's just cracked carefully tap it down so it's flat or close to flat and clean it up really well with brake clean and then apply the JB Weld.

More than likely the reason it chucked the rod is due to the fact it lacked oil/lubrication and the rod seized to the crank which is what breaks them most often - or it over-reved and let go. If the crank is toast your fighting a losing battle on cost.....
The crank almost never goes bad, but everyone thinks they do. They look destroyed because of the aluminum transfer from the rod, but they can be cleaned up with some emery cloth, I've done quite a few of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I've done quite a few of them that way. It works well. I can't see your pics but if you have a large hole pop rivet some fine aluminum mesh over the hole first to give the JB weld something to stick to. If it's just cracked carefully tap it down so it's flat or close to flat and clean it up really well with brake clean and then apply the JB Weld.



The crank almost never goes bad, but everyone thinks they do. They look destroyed because of the aluminum transfer from the rod, but they can be cleaned up with some emery cloth, I've done quite a few of them.
Forgot to share the pictures... they are now shared.
https://goo.gl/photos/pUg518MMahSJteiQ9

On my youtube travels I bumped into a video showing a before and after while removing the aluminium off the crank.
I will try to remember where that was and post it here.... I seem to remember it was while researching acetic acid versus evaporust versus hydrochloric acid.

Here it is:
Hydrochloric (muriatic) acid
(you can rewind to see the whole thing)
The mumbling is because he has his head in a gas mask at this point to avoid fumes.
https://youtu.be/m-gO3bcSneM?t=265


and then sanding:
(rewind here too if you wish)
https://youtu.be/bCyACIpxJng?t=103
 

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That crack looks pretty serious to me, I wouldn't hold my breath on your suggested repair proposal.
But, if you have nothing to lose really but experimenting, what the he**.

 

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Another option besides jb weld is aluminum brazing. It is basically like soldering it, but it melts at a higher temperature.


 
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