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Toro 826 - 38150 - SN 4002088
Hey there everyone. This is my first snowblower. A friend got it at a farm auction and I got it in trade. At first it would not start and I eventually got it going by fixing a break in one of the wires. It starts and Idles. In general it sounds good. The wheels both engage and the auger engages as well.

The P.O did some rewiring and "modding" to this thing as far as I can see. No key is required to start and the safety interlock system is removed.
When I push the throttle lever towards High/fast it will die. Could this be due to the interlock system being removed?? The levers are gone and the wiring(or what is left of it is just hanging there. there is a plug on the engine that seems to be what the system connected to. Can it be bypassed?
I'm also thinking it could be the the carb needs rebuilt and cleaned...possibly the gas cap vent is clogged. The two stage manual posted in the sticky has nothing on my model and I searched about the interlock system with no luck.Any help would be much appreciated and apologies if this has been covered before
I'll include some pictures in case that could help anyone.









 

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:white^_^arial^_^0^_ Kevinrco. Your machine is a 1984 model according to the model and serial number you posted and you can go to
https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro to see the parts breakdown for your machine.

The engine dieing when the throttle is moved from idle to fast indicates your carb will need to be cleaned and adjusted. This link will give you information to do it.

Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Briggs and Stratton Medium Two-Piece Flo-jet Carburetor


Your safety interlock system has already been by-passed, so care must be taken when operating your machine and the interlock system being disconnected will have no effect on the engine running. Will your engine stop when the throttle is pulled all the way down to the stop\slow position?

Link to some interlock discussions on this forum.

http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/search.php?searchid=3482034
 

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Hey thanks for the welcome. The machine will(did) idle fine when the throttle is in the slow position.I fiddled with the screws on the carb and couldn't get it started back up. I found a really helpful YouTube video(link below) showing a partial dis-assembly and cleaning of the carb, same motor but a Lawn-boy snowblower. Gonna do it tomorrow first thing. I've found the model on the Toro site but unfortunately they don't provide the user manual online as many before me probably have already figured out.

Weird, I tried searching with the word "interlock" in the Toro forum and got nothing??? Haven't been on any forums in a bit. Thank you for the links, I hope it is not too dangerous to use without the interlock....

Thank you


 

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hello kevin, welcome to SBF!! my 826 only has one working safety interlock and I'm glad it does
 

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That chute is something else. Looks like the cream colored deflector is from an old Sears unit and it's sitting on a newer style chute ??

Good idea if you have a chance to hit it with some cleaner and hose it down before removing the carb.

I was going to say check on the price of a new carb but when I looked it up I saw what style it is. Haven't worked on one of those yet ??

 

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I hope it is not too dangerous to use without the interlock.
As long as no children are using it and you make sure "you" put the gear shift in neutral, disengage the auger and turn the engine off before leaving the operator position to unclog snow from the chute or debris in your path, you shouldn't have any problems. They are called safety interlocks for a reason, but the machine will function without them. The machine was designed so that releasing either handle bar lever with the shifter in gear or the auger engaged would kill the engine. I hope this helps to keep you safe.
 

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Toro 826 - 38150 - SN 4002088

The P.O did some rewiring and "modding" to this thing as far as I can see. No key is required to start and the safety interlock system is removed.
When I push the throttle lever towards High/fast it will die. Could this be due to the interlock system being removed?? The levers are gone and the wiring(or what is left of it is just hanging there. there is a plug on the engine that seems to be what the system connected to. Can it be bypassed?
I'm also thinking it could be the the carb needs rebuilt and cleaned...possibly the gas cap vent is clogged. The two stage manual posted in the sticky has nothing on my model and I searched about the interlock system with no luck.Any help would be much appreciated and apologies if this has been covered before
I'll include some pictures in case that could help anyone.
The interlocks basically are a short circuit device that takes the ignition wire to ground and stops the spark. Pushing the key in breaks the ground circuit, and on some models, moving the throttle to the OFF position grounds the ignition and stops the engine. Mine has a key, and an on/off switch, but no interlock to the throttle. Both interlocks work, no reason to defeat them...so far.

Your problem with dying at full throttle sounds carb related. Does it run OK at full speed with the gas cap off? If so, that would point to a blocked vent. Check and see if you find a wire in the throttle mechanism that gets grounded when you move the throttle to full speed, which would indicate somebody put it together backwards. I would also take a look at that splice under the black tape and see whats going on there. Perhaps you have a bad connection under it that breaks contact when the unit vibration increases at higher speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey, thanks for all the input. I took off the carb, cleaned, and reassembled. It runs at full throttle now. Its not running good enough though. It will just stop itself. I think i need some new gaskets for it. I'm heading to get a new fuel line and filter for it now to see if it helps. The fuel line looks clear to me and the filter looks ok too but they are old and need replaced anyway.

Another thing came to my attention. now that it will throttle up the auger wont spin when the lever is fully engaged. When i push the lever about halfway or more up the auger will spin. I'll have to search for how to adjust this.
 

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You may need new belts if they were never replaced. It is always good to have a spare set anyway, since they have a tendency to break during the worst storm of the century and all the parts stores are closed.
Your parts list shows the drive belt as 17-6540 and is a 1/2"x44" or (4L440) and the auger belt as 26-960 and is a 1/2"x40" or (4L400).
 

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Cool, I'm gonna get a set. Are these available at a store like Hope Depot? I only have ACE here and they dont carry them. Thanks! I hope after all this learning and repairing to have a solid working machine
 

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Classic CAt - I have not checked compression but it looked to me that some exhaust was escaping from the head. It kinda chirps when starting it now and will only start with the throttle on Fast and no choke.The throttle seems to bounce up and down until it steadys. I did just have it running and "drove it around for a few minutes without it dying.
 

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I'm gonna definitely order the belts and pull the head to inspect. If a compression tester is cheap enough I'll buy one. Thanks again everyone!

I've been on some forums where people are not so nice to novice noobies like myself. It is refreshing to get some good advice without being picked on!
 

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Classic CAt - I have not checked compression but it looked to me that some exhaust was escaping from the head. It kinda chirps when starting it now and will only start with the throttle on Fast and no choke.The throttle seems to bounce up and down until it steadys. I did just have it running and "drove it around for a few minutes without it dying.
Sounds like you might still have some carb issues there. Does the carb have adjustment screw(s) for the jets? The bouncing you see is likely the governor trying to maintain an engine speed which will even out as the engine warms up and choke is turned down, then off (under normal conditions.) Not much point if messing around too much with the carb if you have a blown head gasket. Once that is fixed, then take another crack at getting the carb adjusted.
 

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It has one for the jet.I Think it only has one jet. The other one I'm not sure about, Im guessing one is the idle and the other is the "High"? I set them both at 1 1/2 turns from the further most in position and then adjusted the Jet as I saw in the video I posted.
 

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I've been on some forums where people are not so nice to novice noobies like myself. It is refreshing to get some good advice without being picked on!
Everyone starts out as a newbie no matter what you are doing. There are some great knowledgeable people here that are always happy to help fellow snow blower enthusiasts. As Powershift93 says, "your a brother".
 

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Soooo... I got my hands on a new auger belt and it seems to have helped that problem. The store didn't have the drive belt so I'm working on getting a couple of those as well.The machine is dying under load though and I'm suspecting it is the head gasket leak as Classicat suggested. I'm guessing that for a machine this old I will have to order the head gasket online???? In the meantime I can try to resurface the head according to the post by Kissafrog.
 

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Soooo... I got my hands on a new auger belt and it seems to have helped that problem. The store didn't have the drive belt so I'm working on getting a couple of those as well.The machine is dying under load though and I'm suspecting it is the head gasket leak as Classicat suggested. I'm guessing that for a machine this old I will have to order the head gasket online???? In the meantime I can try to resurface the head according to the post by Kissafrog.
I was lucky enough to have an OPE shop that was well stocked with gaskets for older equipment.

Check the torque on the head bolts before tearing it down completely. Chance of low hanging fruit there. Definitely try to get a new gasket..and dress the head as kaf suggested. I coat my head gaskets with permatex copper gasket spray. Valves may need to be adjusted (remove stem to gain proper clearance) and reseated (lapping) as well. Quite a few vids on u-tube illustrating the process!
 
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