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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all, new member, and my first snowblower ever. :nerd:

I just got this oldie Toro that has been stored in a barn for 20 years and not used in all those years. As it's my first blower, I thought I'd humbly ask for advice.




What has been done so far: new spark plug, new fuel lines, new oil in engine, a working battery.

It started fairly easily and runs great with no strange noises. Drive and mechanics seems to work ok.

Is there any more work that in your view must be done before taking it into proper use? Besides general oiling and some paint? Weak points? Should I change oil in auger gearbox? If so, do any of you know which kind?

Electric starter seems to have been mounted afterwards and the person doing that also seems to also have disabled the security features as it can be started without the handles being engaged. Dangerous even if one is careful?

Edit: Forgot one question: Can I use alkylate fuel in it despite the old engine?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

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Hi all, new member, and my first snowblower ever. :nerd:

I just got this oldie Toro that has been stored in a barn for 20 years and not used in all those years. As it's my first blower, I thought I'd humbly ask for advice.




What has been done so far: new spark plug, new fuel lines, new oil in engine, a working battery.

It started fairly easily and runs great with no strange noises. Drive and mechanics seems to work ok.

Is there any more work that in your view must be done before taking it into proper use? Besides general oiling and some paint? Weak points? Should I change oil in auger gearbox? If so, do any of you know which kind?

Electric starter seems to have been mounted afterwards and the person doing that also seems to also have disabled the security features as it can be started without the handles being engaged. Dangerous even if one is careful?

Edit: Forgot one question: Can I use alkylate fuel in it despite the old engine?

Thanks in advance for any help!
Never heard of alkylate fuel. just use non oxy 87 fuel if you have that there in Sweden. as for the gear box use 80/90 non syn gear oil. the seals will NOT HOLD the syn stuff. if it is in netural the handle's don't have to be engaged it is only when you are in gear and you let go of the handles the engine will die. but if the switches on the handles are broken. those parts are no longer available. no weak points on those machines, it will dig you out and dig you out fast. MAZEL TOV on that find. ALOHA from the Paradise City.:smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027::smiley-rpg027:
 

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Take the wheels off and grease the snot out of everything down there. TORO uses grade 5 bolts on the Augers. so no BLOODY SHEER PINS. I run stainless steel on mine which is the same as a grade 5 bolt. did you put new belts and a plug in it???? and throw a new fuel filter on there???????? let me know if you need any more help with it.:eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k:
 

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Hello and welcome to SBF MultiMan. Here are links to both the Toro two stage repair manual and the Briggs and Stratton engine manual to help get your machine in ready for winter condition.

Toro- (Thank you Shryp)

http://shryp.ashendust.com/Snowblowers/2stagdrv.pdf

Briggs and Stratton-

" Sorry, lost the link"
 
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the manual! I'll read it asap.

So, no shear pins? Hmm, what happens then if one runs into, let's say, a concrete football? Can it be modified to use such pins?

I'll grease it good and well, be sure of that, as it's one of my favorite moments in servicing machinery. I think I have a grease for every occasion! :grin:

The switches on the handles aren't broken, the previous owner seems to have disabled them at one point by re-routing the wiring.

Don't know what alkylate is called, lol. Here in Sweden basically everyone uses it as it can be stored for years without degradation and is a much cleaner fuel with lesser emissions, made from natural gas I believe. Edit: I was wrong: "made from alkylate petrol which is made from the gases from the top of the distillation tower which are synthetically modified into a liquid again"
First brand I came across: Aspen Fuel :: Aspen 4 alkylate 4-stroke petrol , probably around 15 years ago, but at least 10.

As the engine sounds like new, and I love old Briggs, I hesitate to gamble using that fuel even if they say it "should" be ok. First hand experience is always best, that's why I threw the question out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Started tearing the auger apart today. Decided to sand blast the whole shebang, rust proof and the paint it again. The machine feels really solid and worth some extra attention, despite the 34 years since manufacture.

I looked at the parts schematic on Toro website, and according to that this '83 still seems to have condensor and point ignition. I thought Briggs switched a bit earlier than that (81 maybe)? Is it worth to switch to the new type coil even if the machine runs good as is?
 

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You run in or over a iceberg oot there in Sweden. the engine stalls OUT. NO BLOODY SHEER PINS. you put those things in there and break them off out there in or on a berg. you will be kicking yourself all the way to Ibiza for a holiday.
 
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