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Discussion Starter #1
If anyone has one of the recent years 826's-

Have they slowed down the first gear on the 826??
Or is there enough room let on the hex shaft to slide
the rubber traction wheel inward to readjust the
forward speed to a slower speed????
 

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928 max here and yes i was able to move it a little bit to a more grannie gear like movement by sure accident after i had to remove the shaft to clean off the mouse pee rust off it that caused the wheel to lock up on it .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello Captchas,

Thanks for getting back to me about the speed issue as I am about to go to the credit union and ask/beg/hope for a small loan to buy one.

I tried calling TORO this morning and that became a circular firing squad as they do not answer questions about the mechanical side of their snowblowers.

If the one that I looked at is still there I have to remove the wheels, cross auger shaft and impeller to lather the shaft stubs up with neversieze as they are all rusty.

It would give me a good excuse to go to KAMAN in Horseheads to get real bearings for the cross auger stub shafts.

I am going to get finicky and fussy about it before I coat the housing with at least 3+ coats of Fluid Film before I
reassemble it and put it in the shed next to the S200 and the CCR3000GTS and hope I will not have to separate them due to their barking and growling at each other as the other two still have their certified and serial numbered cans of whoop ass from when I brought them home.

What worries more is the lack of a front weight now as even the larger models do not have holes for the weight kit from what I saw on Saturday at the home despot and on the TORO web site.

I have chains I can use and I can load the tires with windshield washer fluid but I am more worried about it climbing rather than staying on the ground and eating the END OF DRIVEWAY MONSTER to feed the little moat monsters.
I cannot put a weight in the belly pan as it is plastic from what I remember. There is enough room there to stack some plate steel on the front edge; I just have to see what my local steel reseller has for thick flat stock as it will need to be drilled out to mount them on the cross auger housing.

I have out find out if the electrical system can handle a small light bar along with the OEM TORO supplied light to.
 

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auger cast side bearings i was able to with out removing drill and tap for a zerk fitting in the smaller part, while at it also fully tap though from out side the housing to add a extra 1/4 inch of flange bolt throw away the self tapper's toro uses , rear main auger bearing is more of a pain but i did remove the allen head screw they use to keep it form spinning , drill though there, clean the drill bur from the inside tap for a zerk, more or less peace of mind that i can add a small short of grease to help the oi lite bearings

something i found the hard way with mine being it's a lever turn, those grade 8 bolts with spacers holding the wheels on, can and do snap off from side thrust, keep spares, i stopped using the longer bolts toro uses with spacers for a shorter one with out staying grade 8. seems IMM anyway to help as instead of loosing a few a year i've dropped to only non in a full winter

watch the stamped skids, soft and cheap steel, they wear fast , lucky you can flip them over and reuse but the the cast iron replacements are much better

still i look at the rust from under the welded sections and paint and cry, that toro told us TOUGH cookies on your own
 
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