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hi, i had some time to kill today so i thought i would look at a toroS200 that was given to me. i could only get it started if i squirted fuel into the carb but then it would stall. i took the carb apart and cleaned it but it still would stall.i'm thinking maybe the diaphram is no good. the manual says that tha diaphram works off of crankcase pressure, how is the pressure fed to the diaphram. i know on my outboard there is a passage that the fuel pump mounts on.
thanks
 

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Yep, those diaphragms just plain get old and aren't as pliable as they should be. They're easy to replace, and pretty cheap. There is a proper way to install the diaphragm and gasket, depending on the carb you have.

The diaphragm works on atmospheric pressure. It's explained in here on page 6. They put it better than I can.
http://www.cpdonline.com/692508.pdf

And the diaphragm installation is shown on page 10.

There's lots of those S200's still tossing snow, and lots of folks who swear by them.
 

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be careful

DIAPHRAGMS. Inspect diaphragms for cracks, tears
or brittleness. Replace if necessary. Rivet head on
diaphragm must always face toward the inlet needle
valve.
If the carburetor has an "F" designation on the casting,
it will identify the installation sequence of the gasket
and diaphragm on the carburetor. "F" designated
carburetors have the diaphragm installed first then the
gasket then the cover. If there is no designation, the
sequence is gasket, diaphragm and cover.

Many people miss this. If you don't put the gasket on the correct side of the diaphragm and cover, it effectively changes the needle valve opening.
The middle portion of the diaphragm contacts the needle valve and controls when it opens and closes. If the gasket is placed on the wrong side it will either not allow fuel to enter or cause the carb to flood.
Last year I bought 26, S200 machines from a dealer that was going out of business. He had serviced all of them to some degree and many were dis-assembled. I went through them all to prepare them for sale.
I was quite surprised to find over half of them would not run simply because the gasket was installed on the wrong side. If the diaphragm was pliable and had no tears, I was able to re-use them. Some had the gaskets stuck to the wrong side which required them to be replaced.
My S140 uses the same "F" style carb. It was assembled wrong. I corrected the gasket, re-using original parts, and she has been a great machine ever since.:D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok, mine is an f style and gasket was installed properly, i will probably buy the diaphram and needle kit, i found one on e-bay for around eight dollars. i just have one question, the diaphram has a stainless disc about 1 inch in diameter on one side the other side has a 3/8 disc, what side goes to the needle valve side?
thanks
 

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The picture on page 10 shows it. It goes with the ridge in the diaphragm and the rivet head up.
 

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be very careful with the needle valve lever and spring. Walbro makes a gage for setting the lever height. I forgot the website, but if you google Walbro I'm sure you can find it.
You can have a brand new needle and seat and still have trouble if the lever is not set right.
 

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Let me start off by saying I had a S-200 and sold it and wanted it back so I got a powerlyte for free and does a good job but still missed my S-200. Well one day coming back from the store I got another one for free sitting on the side of the road. My old land lord that I rented from also got one and I fixed it for her and still is working great.
Any ways if you down load the manual from Toro it tells you that the 2 jet screws need to be cleaned and that is what I have done on all 3 of them and each one runs great. The S-200 is a great great little single stage snowblower with a lot of power, and I like that it does not have a chute that it has to go through but uses vanes to direct the snow.
Great little machines.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for the tips, i found the service manual, very helpful, when my diaphram and needle comes in i will update my progress.
 

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I just used my free S-200 and after I was done with most of the driveway (one small stripe left) it started running like at idle or bogged down, so I finished with it and listed it on craigslist since I don't want to deal with it plus my powerlyte runs great and works great but I do love the S-200 I just don't have time to deal with it.
 

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those are great machines. i gave my to my dad when i found a 25+ year old single stage Snapper with electric start. Pretty easy to maintain and parts are still available.
 

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Yes, I will regret getting rid of it but I just don't have the time to deal with it (like it would take long to fix) But still I just have to much stuff and need the room in the garage. I will end up getting one again I bet.
Plus I have had over 20 responses to it already, for $35 someone is getting a great deal as it is in perfect condition with electric start.
 

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I "inherited" an old S200 and am trying to get it ready for winter. It had been sitting for almost 10 years so I removed and dissembled the carb and soaked in ChemDip.

I purchased a rebuild kit and re-assembled it (did NOT replace any welch plugs).

The engine won't start and it appears to be leaking gas (not an uncommon problem on this carb) past the needle.

Other than checking to see if I have the diaphragm and gasket installed correctly, what else should I double check ?

On page 8-1 of the Service Manual mentions a check ball behind the high speed screw but I don't recall seeing one and I'm 99% certain I did NOT put one back in ! Problem ?
 

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You won't actually see the ball check. Take a look at this diagram. You'll see that it's buried deep inside, and shouldn't come out.

http://i40.tinypic.com/pn88x.jpg

They will seem to leak fuel if the primer is pumped a lot, or maybe too much. If it's leaking fuel without priming, then the inlet needle and seat may be installed wrong. There is a "top" and "bottom" to the seat.

This Tecumseh manual is helpful too.

http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/html/engine-specs/tecumseh/Tecumseh_2-Cycle_Engines_Service_Information.pdf
 

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Seat orientation for the needle valve in the carburetor

I am rebuilding a 1979 TORO S200 (38130) that has set in a barn for over 30-years. The diaphragm kit came with a new needle valve and seat but no instructions. The seat that the needle valve passes through appears to have one flat end and the other end has a groove all the way around. Which way should the seat be installed? Should the flat end of the seat face toward the point of the needle valve or the other way around?
 

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They are good little machines - but I quit picking them up since they are getting so hard to sell. If you want a machine you can haul up on a ladder to clean off an overloaded roof - that is really the only one! It's a shame there are so many of them near free.....
the 620's are the top of the line IMHO but all the S series are good
 

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Should the flat end of the seat face toward the point of the needle valve
:welcome: to SBF dvanman. The flat side of the rubber seat should face the needle valve taper, meaning the ring side is installed facing down in the brass nut. Here is the service manual for the Tecumseh 2 cycle motors. Pay attention to the type of carb you have on page number 10 which shows the gasket and diaphragm installation depending on a regular carb or a type "F". Here is the Toro single stage service manual also. Have you checked for spark yet? Chances are the points will need a cleaning after sitting unused for all that time.

http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumseh2cyclemanual1994.pdf

http://gicl.cs.drexel.edu/images/0/02/Service_manual.pdf


 
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