:welcome:

Let's back up a bit and tell us what the issue seems to be with the original carb. How old is the 2410?

Might be a matter of running a high concentration of carb cleaner

 

Thanks for the responses thus far.

So basically, I bought this Storm 2410 from Lowe's a little over a year ago. This is the first gas powered blower I have ever owned so basically, I didn't know very much about using it. I left the gasoline in there all summer without stabilizer. When I tried to turn the blower on following our first snowfall, I primed it and pressed the electric start. It made the typical engine noise; however, it never turned over or started. I looked in some forums that suggest that my problem is the carburetor. Apparently, from what I've read, with the quality of today's gas you can pretty much ruin a carburetor by leaving old gas in the tank for only a month or two.

If running carb cleaner might do the trick, I am willing to do that. Someone also told me that another possibility would be to be the carburetor once removed and a bath of carb cleaner.

Once again, I appreciate any kind of input; and I'm also going to include a link to a website that has the carburetor that replaces the one in my 2410 ( https://mowerpartsnation.com/products/troy-bilt-snowblower-model-31bs6bn2711-carburetor ). Unfortunately, the item is out of stock. As far as just replacing the shaft, that does not seem to be a possibility as it runs right down into the chokeplate and all seems to be one piece.

thanks, and I eagerly await your input.

 

Hello and welcome to SBF steve. If the carb appears to be identical to the original one, you may be able to just switch the shafts between the two carbs. I couldn't find what motor you are using to offer a better alternative, sorry.

 

the 2410 I believe has a 179cc engine, Will do a little search to see what I can find

 

pics would help of both old and new. and what was prob w/old carb

 

If you do have a small bore engine, these two manuals will help with future repairs.

MTD small bore service manual-
http://service.mtdproducts.com/Training_Education/769_04015_01_Small_bore_horizontal.pdf
　
MTD carb identification chart-
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-g4TpKUJnh7U2lOcjgwN2JodEU

 

Here are the two side by side.

 

the one on the left is for the newer revision 2410 with the 208cc engine

 

Great. Do you know where I can get that carbureter?

 

Ok, look for my old posts with how to clean the jets on the 2410 blower. There is a black pastic plug on the TOP of the carb It is crescent shaped and it is held in place by the rubber lip of the throttle screw holding it down. remove the throttle screw being very careful to count the turns exactly or screw it in till it bottoms out and then you can re-install it exactly as it was without affectin the idle rpm. Now remove the plug, by using a small flat bladed screw driver. It is held in place by two little o rings around it, they are a friction fit. When you look in it you will see a non- removable brass plug. it has a tiny hole that goes through it and is intersected by a hole that is perpendicular in the middle of the plug(sideways). This is probably your problem. Now cut a small piece of wire out of a wire brush held with small needlenose pliers, and spray gummout carb cleaner and run the wire repeatedly into the jet to clean out the obstruction alternating with sprays of cleaner. You should be able to see a pinprick of daylight fom the transvers cross drilled hole when it pops through. This is called the idle air jet and is a common issue on this type of engine. The hole is so tiny they fill up with varnish from the stale gas. Also pull the float bowl taking care to observe the float pivot pin orientation and us a carb cleaner in the main jet and another small piece of wire as well. The machine will run like new untill you forget to use sta-bil or seafoam at the end of the season! This fix is stone easy as the hardest part is getting the carb off! You already did that. Also, I have had great luck cleaning carbs on running machines with Mechanic In A Bottle.

 

Hey coastie,

Thanks for taking the time to get back to me. I just want to clarify your instructions a bit. Is this the area of the carb you are referring to? I assume the round part on top is the throttle screw. Now, I understand that I need to maintain its exact position; but I'm unclear as to how screwing it in until it bottoms out will help me to maintain its exact position....or maybe if it's all the way in, I don't need to worry about returning it back to its exact position? Also will screwing it all the way in give me the clearance I need to remove the plastic plug below?

Once again, thanks so much for helping this newbie out. Wish you lived in Jersey. I'd already be on my way to your place with my carb in hand and fifty bucks for your efforts : ) BTW, happy new year!!

 

I think the issue is that Troy-Bilt changed the engine on the 2410 machine. It used to be a 179cc and is more recently a 208cc. They bumped the price up $100 as well.

The model number may have stayed the same. So replacement parts sites may not list the correct carb for the current engine.

 

You're very welcome. First, yes that is the exact part. Second when you screw it in put a mark on the handle of the screwdriver and count the number of turns exzactly until it bottoms out then remove it or the number of turns untill it comes out if you simply remove it. then you have a reference to use when you reinstall it after you "pull the plug". Then your idle speed will be the same. Your carb is too new to be ruined {corroded) by the alcohol content in your gas in only one year IMO, and BTW mine was 18 turns out when I removed my idle screw. I also got a set of mini drill bits , found the largest that would go int the MAIN jet in the float bowl,A #60, I believe, and then put a number 68 in a PIN VICE (a small hand held drill bit holder) and simply screwed it in by hand, very slowlybacking it up frequently like a tap, which minutely enlarged the jet thereby enrichening the mixture slightly, probably unnecessary if I had been able to clean the IDLE JET first. This is a common fix for any of the yardman troybilt MTD style carbs sold after I believe 98 on the Chinese Honda clone motors. Few know where the idle jet is located because it was under the float bowl next to the main jet on most of the tecumseh and Briggs motors for 60 years or so LOL. There are a lot of perfectly good blowers for sale cheap that either surge or outright stall out the minute you turn off the choke or are at the side of the road in the trash for this 60 minute fix...I fix em and sell them when I find them and my first Troy Bilt was trouble free in Michigan for 8 or 9 years other then the 2 or 3 times I had to clear the idle jet. Also if the starter motor kicks out and free spins the solenoid gear just needs to have the spring loaded shaft cleaned and lubed after youu pull the little starter motor. About a half hour job....

 

Thank you so much for everything . I'll let you know how it all goes. Don't think I'll be widening any jets though. I'm a bit scared to try that; but all the rest seems doable.

 

PS Do not pull the round end cap off the durn starter. The little wierdo at the parts counter will laugh at you when you can't get the durn thing back together becuse the brushes are spring loaded....

 

This video will help ease your fears, if any.

Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Carb 16100-ZF6-W10 on Honda GX390 QA2X Engine

 

Sad to report cleaning the carbureter as described did not work. After investing over 4 hours between taking it apart and putting this beast back together, there is no joy. Anyone know how I can tell if I'm getting spark? Anyone know a reputable (and cheap) place in Central New Jersey (Princeton area) that does small engine repair?

Any other ideas?

Once again, thanks so much to all who tried to help me.

 

BTW, the carburator seemed pristine even before I cleaned it. The spray was running right through the jet before I even agitated the hole with the wire brush bristle.

 

Remove the spark plug wire and stick your finger in the end of the wire and pull the starter rope. That's what my dad always made me do.:devil:


Honestly, pull the plug wire and remove the spark plug. Put the plug wire back onto the spark plug and lay the plug on the engine where it makes a good ground.
Pull the starter rope several times and watch for a spark across the electrode.


If you have the time run down to the local auto parts store and pick up a spark tester. They are pretty cheap.
Just plug it in between the spark plug wire and spark plug and pull the starter rope. watch for a spark in the clear tube.

 

Remove the spark plug wire and stick your finger in the end of the wire and pull the starter rope. That's what my dad always made me do.:devil:

Good thing you clarified that you were joking. I might have done it : )

 

Ha, ha, ha. Disregard my previous post. Yesterday, I was sitting in my office between patients when I realized that after cleaning the carb as per Coastie's recommendation, I pulled the spark plug wire to change the plug before attempting to start it up. Long story short, I could not find the plug I had purchased from Autozone and when I went to start the blower, I did so without connecting the spark cable. This morning, when i woke up, I reattached the cable and BAMMMM away she roared. Coastie and his recommendations saved me and my back from having to shovel the eight inches we just got!!!

Thanks so much to all who took the time to lend a hand and happy plowing.

 

Alright Steve! Remember it only hurts the first time! Never be afraid to take anything apart, you can always pay somebody later if you can't figure it out. A couple tips, 1 take pics on your cell phone if it's complicated. 2 You tube videos are your friend, There is a video by a country boy splainin' how to fix ANYTHING. 3 If you drop a piece and you didn't put a tarp, light colored, on the floor before you started take a big magnet from ace hardware on a stick and go directly to the biggest, heaviest thing in your garage and sweep it under it. parts NEVER roll under anything light or moveable. 4 Drive immediately to the nearest Harbor Freight and buy several steel parts bowls with the magnets on the bottom. And heavy duty rough service lightbulbs for your trouble lights. 5 Battery tenders are your friend and pick up a couple of the extra wire ends that you can screw directly to the battery and leave the pigtails tie wrapped to an accesible spot on the bike, car, blower, quad, boat whatever. 6 Buy socket bars so when you get done you can see all the sockets are lined up so they don't roll off the freakin valve cover when you're driving down a gravel road. A cheap ass tool set in a plastic case in the trunk is better then a snap on rollaway filled with All American tools in the garage if your battery cable busts in the woods or in a boat in a gale. 7 LED head strap flashlights are your friend with spare batteries wrapped over the contacts with duct tape and kept in a backpack with a softball glove, ball, and old fashioned wooden bat wink wink. 8 Get a wool army blanket cheap or camo tarp to lay on if you have to fix something and it also keeps dog hair and pecker tracks from your boxer off the front seat and the OLs tight black jeans. A big boxer and a bat is cheaper than an attorney. 9 When you're in the Coast Guard, there is no one to call for help....Press On Regardless...Onward and Upward Through the Fog of the Unknown!

 

Roger that, Coastie.

 

Just a quick thank you to all that helped in this tread, I was able to get mine running again with all this information.

 

Finger in the spark plug wire fix?:wink2:

 

on that carb you need to go in at the base of the plastic rod for the choke and pop it out with a skinny blade screwdriver and place it on the new carb

 

If you bought this Troy-Bilt 2410 within the past couple of years, they changed the carburetor to a different version. The part number you need is 951-15236 for 2016-newer.

Complete listing of part numbers for Troy-Bilt 2410 models

 

Don't forget these engines have a small replacement fuel filter, typically at the tank. Page 12 in the manual.

 

Hello I’m about 30-40 minutes from you. I’ve been involved in mechanics auto , truck gas and Diesel engines and small engines. I presently work in a full service outside equipment sales and small engine service. I have worked on plenty of machines like yours any others new and used can order any part needed to complete any job.

 

Has anyone found the correct replacement carburetor. I can't seem to find it anywhere. Mine too has black plastic stick thingy.

 

Hi Steve. By any chance did you every figure this problem out? I have the same exact issue. New carb (for replacement) has no Choke "stem". What did you end up doing? Thanks and Happy Thanksgiving!