I have a TroyBilt Squall 208E, mode l# 31AS2T7G711, snow thrower and the auger stops turning after about five minutes use. I have replaced the OEM drive belt twice with no improvement. I have replaced the idler pulley with no help. I have replaced the cable with not help. I've checked the bearings on the auger and everything spins freely. I noticed that the repair websites show a cogged belt, while mine has the same part number, but is not cogged. Would a cogged belt help? Could the shave plate be heating up, expanding, and impinging on the impeller? Doesn't seem logical. However, the fact that the engine runs fine, and it will charge through heavy snow for five minutes, and then suddenly the impeller stops turning while the engine continues to run has me at my wit's end. (BTW this unit was given to me by my kids after they purchased a larger model. It has had little use since purchase, probably because of this balky problem. It was built in 2017 and, I believe, is out of warranty.
Thanks for any help or suggestions!
Thanks for your reply. It is puzzling because the belt I've replaced is from the manufacturer and has their part number on it. More puzzling is that this basic design is sold under numerous brands besides Troy-Bilt, (Craftsman, Briggs & Stratton, etc.), probably because it works well as a single stage blower. If it wasn't a reliable design they probably wouldn't be still making and selling it. I'll try a belt a half in shorter as you suggest and see if it works. I'd also like to know the reason why a cogged belt is shown on the machine repair videos, but mine is not cogged. Thanks again.
Check your belt tensioner springs, especially the one on the end of the cable. Likely some tightening needed. Make sure the CLUTCH CABLE BRACKET is free, as well.
Parts lookup and repair parts diagrams for outdoor equipment like Toro mowers, Cub Cadet tractors, Husqvarna chainsaws, Echo trimmers, Briggs engines, etc.
Sometimes a company will change to a clogged belt. It happens. A belt does not grip from the bottom, it grips from the sides, so cog or no cog doesn't matter. When a belt wears on the sides it will sit lower in the pulley. A clogged belt allows the belt to make a smaller radius turn, a sharper turn.
Thanks for your replies. Here's an update. I was talking with a service tech who pulled up a diagram of my snow thrower. He pointed out that the nut that holds the pulley driving the auger needs to be torqued to 60 foot pounds. That's a fair amount of torque, and that number is not reflected in the owners manual where it describes how to change the belt, nor in the repair videos Ive seen. For what its worth, I torqued it to specs and tried it on the new snow we received overnight. It worked like a champ. The snow was fairly light, however previously any snow would eventually stall the auger. I'll keep track of my progress with heavier snows and post how it does. Thanks again for your suggestions.
I don't see how tightening the bolt to specs would solve the problem, and I'd like to think EVERYONE on here would agree with me because it's impossible for the pulley to slip because there is a key, unless the key is missing.
I have the same machine except for mine the auger turns while not engaged. When I bought this thing I burned through 2 belts in 2 years. I am replacing with the same belt number which is a 1/2 x 35 measurement( its slightly larger than 35 ) and it still spins the auger when the bailor arm is not used. I went to a 1/2 x 36 and it is too loose. Why would the belt in the part manual and confirmed by a dealer when they ran the model # have a belt that spins the auger when not in use? The auger cable is exactly routed the way it should and the spring is in good condition. The tension pulley looks to be in a good position, meaning it can't go any higher up and out of the way. I'm stumped
There is nothing to adjust. The cable runs from the bailor to the tension pulley where it is attached with a spring on the end. There is no way to adjust it only goes on one way
Auger Control Cable
As a result of both the control cable and the auger drive belt stretching due to wear, periodic adjustments may be necessary. If the auger seems to hesitate when rotating, proceed as follows:
The upper hole in the auger control lever provides for an adjustment in cable tension.
To adjust, disconnect the end of control cable from the bottom hole in the auger control lever and reinsert it in the upper hole.
Insert the cable from the outside as shown in Figure 4-3.
Test the snow thrower to see if there is a noticeable difference. If after the adjustment to the control cable the auger still hesitates when rotating, replace the belt.
NOTE: When the auger control lever is released, the auger should stop rotating. If the auger continues rotating after the adjustment, contact an authorized service center.
thank you for the reply. I did try to switch the cable from hole to hole but it makes no difference the auger still spins when not engaged. I am stumped. I may try to take the plastic cover off and see if something is bent with the tension pulley arm or if something doesn't look engineered correctly. It has done this from day 1, probably should have taken it back then
Make sure belt is routed correctly with regards to the brake. Yes it happens.
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