I would use regular gas with a lil marine stabil. Then drain at the end of the season. If you want, then run ethanol free gas thru it for a little while then drain again.

 

TruFuel is a waste of money. If you you add Stabil or a similar product to you regular ethanol gas you will have the same thing for for $3.00 a gallon. I buy gas about 3.5 to 4 gallons at a time at the BP station and use 1 ounce of Stabil, 1 ounce of Sea Foam and 1 ounce of Marvel mystery oil to the 4 gallons. I don't get anal about the precise amount but stay close to that ratio. Been doing this since we got ethanol gas here in WI in 1982. I have as of yet to have a fuel related small engine problem and there are about 25 small engines around my house. Briggs, Tecumsehs, Kohlers, Lawn Boys, Kawasakis and several different Chinese clone engines. Roger

 

I have a station also about 1/2 hour away that sells ethanol free 91 Octane Gas. I took down a 5 gallon can and added the Briggs & Straton stabilizer just as an extra preventative measure.

I started using this ethanol free in my leaf blower this summer as well (mixed with oil of course). I noticed it starts a lot easier and seems not to leave that oil/gas smell as much on your clothes. I used it in my my Honda mower as well and had good luck.

I just bought another 5 gallons in October for this winter for the snowblower. It is a little of hassle to drive a half hour for gas but my dealer tells me the gas should be good for at least a year without any stabil. Knock on wood no issues so far.

 

Don't know where you live, but any marinas closer than an hour? They usually sell "recreation" gas. Also if you have any equipment rental places closer, ask them. We have a local one and they get ethanol free delivered and sell it. I'm lucky as my parents live on a lake and their neighbor owns the local mini mart gas station. He is an avid water skiing fan and put a "rec" gas pump in during a remodel 2 years ago. Nearly the entire lake gets their boating, snowmobile and lawn tractor gas there now. Guy has a gold mine.

 

I would buy the oxygenated/E10/ethanol added fuel that was close by and add a little stabilizer (Stabil Marine) before I started spending $23 a gallon for canned gas. If there was a station not too far away I'd make the drive for it but not over 30 minutes away.

Folks, please add a location to your profile so we have a better grip on what might be a good suggestion based on your location or in some cases even different country. Thanks

 

Guys, I live in surburban Philadelphia, PA.
Isn't the "Ethanol-Free" gasoline better than gas with ethanol added?
Not sure why some of you say use ethanol laced gas when I can buy E0.

 

Detail, definitively buy Ethanol free gas if you have Gas Bars offering it and even if it is 88 or 89 octane then the better it is.

 

Ethanol free gas is the way to go. no additives or stabilizers needed. I run it in all my equipment and vehicles.

 

For a small engine ethanol free is the way to go as it's less likely to break down and cause carburetor problems.
BUT if that ethanol free gas is $24 dollars a gallon then in my opinion it's not worth it and I'd just get the regular fuel (E10) at the corner gas station and use some stabil in it.

I can get non-oxygenated fuel (E0) at the local gas station and I still add a little stabil to it just for cheap insurance in case I forget to drain something and leave fuel in it during it's "off" season.

 

The OP said he had a source of ethanol free gas at a cost of $17.50 for 5 gallons. Ethanol free gas is the best solution. It's all I run in my small engines and vehicles. One thing to keep in mind is that ethanol has only 25% of the energy of gasoline, so any ethanol added to fuel reduces it's efficiency.

 

You didn't mention that the OP said the pure gas was an hour drive away. Unless I was already going there I'm not making a two hour trip just to get mower/snow blower fuel and I don't know anyone who would. I'd get the E10 and use stabilizer, Seafoam or ... .

I agree pure gas is best but common sense plays a part in my thinking. Many people run the oxygenated (E-10) fuel without stabilizer or cleaners and don't have any problems. I like to do the best I can but within reason.

 

Slightly off topic but I let my Troy-Bilt power washer sit for 5 years without starting it. It dried the E10 gas up in the carb and the tank. Well this year I sprayed the carb with cleaner, filled the tank and after about 6 pulls it started and ran fine, go figure. My 2 cycle engines are not as forgiving.

Whimsey

 

So with that all said, my final post on this topic would be do I need to add a stabilizer to E0 (Ethanol FREE) gas or not. It seems some of you do and some do not. Just wanted to be sure.

 

You do NOT need to add stabilizer to E0 gas.

 

Not about which fuel to use, but more about the container i just bought and use, i just bought a container with no vent cap on it like the one I've had for many a year but only holds 5 liters(4.7) so i bought a new and bigger but now with no vent hole this things swells up considerably and when i open the cap to pour it makes such a hissing sound with the release of pressure thank goodness there's no open flame or anything that could cause a spark or else it'll be like a bomb i'm sure, do any others have the same container for fuel and the same swelling problem. I think i'll return to the vented container, not to keen on the non vented new one.

 

It's a personal choice. Everything that's suggested is simply a recommendation to try and keep your gear in better shape.
Do you need stabilizer ... no. Is it helpful ... a lot of people think so. Will it cure some problems with oxygenated fuel ... most likely. Which stabilizer is best ... the discussion is still going on.

I think using stabilizer and cleaner is cheap insurance against having a problem with a machine that most people don't have a spare, only a shovel. In some cases if the machine doesn't work you don't make it to work.

 

Can anyone recommend one stabilizer over another?
I see that there are many out there. Should I just pick one? Sta-bil?

 

Stabil is fine but with no ethanol and if you use the gas you purchase within the next few months there is simply no need for it but that is a personal choice as stated. Stabil or equivalent is meant for long term storage and for gasoline containing ethanol more than 30 days is considered long term storage as for without ethanol many consider 6 months long term. Good Luck

 

I am also in the Philly area and use high octane gas in my Honda blower and at the end of the winter season start adding a bit of stabil marine and run it one last snowfall, with the mix. Then shut it off at the petcock till the engine stalls, then open the carb bowl and let the last drops come out and pack her away till next winter. Never a problem. I would never drive 2 hours up and back just for NON Oxy gas

 

I've always taken the same approach with small motors. Even though I've been using snow throwers and generators for more than 25 years I have more bad experience with small outboard motors than any other kind, and despite using Stabil religiously (at the time the fuel comes out of the service station pump) I've seen that in some cases it only takes 60+ days for "phase separation" to occur with E10 fuel. Maybe it's the harsh marine environment. The fuel in a sight glass gets cloudy and the engine just dies. I've had my engine stop running a mile offshore and that's even worse (potential consequences) than having your snow machine stop in the middle of job when you're snowed-in during a Sunday blizzard.

In addition to the procedures used by NJHonda, I now change stabilized fuel every 60 days by putting it in the car, and cycling new fuel into the small-engine reserve tanks. At the end of the season I siphon out any remaining fuel and drain the carb bowls/lines. Ideally that last tank will be E0 or TruFuel so any residual is higher quality. If I want stored fuel to last more than 60 days I use E0 or TruFuel.

It's expensive but if you value dependability it might be worth it. It's an individual judgment about whether it's worth it. Anyone who says stabilized E10 is as reliable as E0 just hasn't experienced phase separation (yet).

 

Lots of ideas based on personal experiences. That is what makes this Forum great.

Where I live I can't get E(0) unless I go to an air port and buy AV gas which is 91 octane. Which I do, when convenient.
Otherwise, I buy small amounts of E(10) so it does not sit for too long and add Stabil.

Tru Fuel is great but as everyone pointed out it is a very expensive option. I think it may only make sense if you buy the 2 cycle oil for engines you don't use a lot of. This way you don't have to buy 2 cycle oil, mix it and keep another gas can around that may be accidentally used in the wrong place.

I think taking care of your fuel to mitigate the problems related to water absorption and corrosion is easy and can save you a lot of time, frustration and money. The more humid your region the more important it becomes. When you start to see that white powdery oxidation on the inside of your aluminum carburetor, or pitting on the steel carb bowl you are on the way to trouble. Especially if you continue use untreated E10 fuels.
I know there are anecdotes of people not having any issues with untreated E10 but maybe all of the sensitive factors were tilting in their favor.

 

Stabil Marine, Marine because it's made to handle higher levels of moisture or Seafoam and measure whatever you do choose to add to your fuel. Don't just pour a shot or two in.
There are others mentioned but they seem a little expensive but then again it depends on how fast you use up your fuel and how much fuel you use and if it's E0 or E10.

It's just insurance against having a problem you may never have even if you don't use anything. Try a couple and see what YOU come up with as best