Snowblower Forum banner

41 - 60 of 77 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
I agree with everything except using any variant of a 20 weight oil. You'll never see an Xw20 spec'd for an air cooled motor because they're exceptionally hard on oil. In an air cooled motor, the oil is doing double duty as both lubrication and direct cooling of components as they lack a water jacket to dissipate heat. Honda, specs a 20 hour/yearly replacement for their HS/HSS line for that reason, and I imagine most others do too.

I know oil is SUPER subjective on the internet, but I think running thinner oil than spec'd is bad news. Even if you are changing it often. I know it's hyperbole, but try running 5w30 in an old Harley shovelhead and you'll have a really bad time.

Ninja edit: very interesting to see the remark about running 10w30 at temps above 27C on a snowblower engine!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
I buy most of my my machines used and the first thing i do is change out the oil even if it looks clean, the first season I buy the auto parts store brand synthetic 5w30 for the snowblowers and if they don't use it like gas, the following season i use amsoil or royal purple. my lawnmower has only seen amsoil small engine formula since it was new and only change the oil once a season or sometimes every 2 seasons, the snowblowers get an oil change every season since they are run in mainly wet conditions and moisture can get in the oil very easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
I use Royal Purple Synthetic oil on my small engines: lawn mowers & snowblowers. I contacted the support department of Royal Purple when I was first interested in using their product in my Ariens 921018 Deluxe 30 Platinum Series and what would be the best way to go about it on a new snowblower. Here was their response:

Good morning Steve,

Thank you for contacting us!

If your brand new Ariens snowblower comes with oil already in the engine, or has engine oil included in the packaging, we recommend using that factory fill engine oil as your break in oil. Run that until the first factory scheduled oil change and only then upgrade to a Royal Purple synthetic oil. If your Ariens unit does not come with an oil, use any high quality API licensed conventional 5W-30 oil for your initial startup and first oil usage.
New engine break in is all about controlled wear, as the new piston rings wear in and match up better with the new cylinder walls. A proper break in can potentially provide better piston ring to cylinder wall seal and compression. All Royal Purple synthetic oils tend to prevent wear a little too well and as a result are not appropriate for engine break in purposes.

After your brand new Ariens snowblower engine break in is complete, Royal Purple HPS 5W-30 (part #31530, quart bottle)(part #36530, 6 pack case) is an excellent choice, if Ariens factory warranty compliance is not a serious concern.
HPS: HPS ? High Performance Street Synthetic Oil | Royal Purple

If Ariens factory warranty compliance is a serious concern, we recommend using our API licensed version of our oil during the warranty period and wait to upgrade to the HPS version after Ariens warranty is off the table.
Royal Purple SAE 5W-30 (part #01530, quart bottle)(part #51530, 5 quart bottle);
This our SAE 5W-30 API-SN and an ILSAC GF-5 licensed oil, and should absolutely be Ariens warranty compliant.
SAE/API: Synthetic Oil | High Performance Motor Oil | Royal Purple

Fuel System: Royal Purple Max Clean (part #11722, 20oz bottle);(cleaner and fuel stabilizer)
Max Clean: Max-Clean Fuel System Cleaner | Fuel Injector Cleaner

Thank you for choosing Royal Purple!

Best Regards,

James Morrissey
Sr. Automotive Technical Support
_______________________________________

If I didn't know better, I'd swear the Ariens is running smoother with the Royal Purple than it did with the factory oil.
I also use the same oil on my Toro single stage 518 ZE Model #38473.
Great stuff.....
Steve in Central Vermont

 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4 Posts
There are four Type of Motor Oil, and they are:
1. Full synthetic oil. This one is good for vehicles that demand peak level performance and high levels of lubrication.
2. Synthetic blend oil. This oil is a mixture of synthetic and conventional base oils, and some additives.
3. Conventional oil. This is the most commonly used type of oil.
4. High mileage oil. This type of oil can help reduce oil consumption.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
454 Posts
Love me some oil thread!!!!!
Amsoil for M/C
Mobil 1 for Ariens and John Deere!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
JSUP, my manual says the same thing. We usually clear snow between the 14 or so degree temperature mark up to 45 degree mark if we are lucky. So I took the synthetic option. I figured that I would be covered in all temperatures. I was not sure what was used in the 2015 Pro 28 for the last 3-4 years, so I just decided on the synthetic. I know the Briggs And Stratton 420CC will really not be working all that hard most of the time, but I fiured anything to help it run as easy as possible could only help. I picked the Castrol Edge Extended Performance Advanced Formula with the Titanium technology with being stronger under pressure. :icon-shrug: Plus it does say I am good for 20,000 miles. :giggle:

A lot of these motor oil weights are given by car manufacturers for fuel efficiency purposes, thinner oil posts better mileage. It also corresponds to the oil pressure gauge, or light depending on what you have. A thinner oil shows lower pressure, and it's noticeable.

I typically ran what was called "4 stroke small engine oil" and straight weight 30 for a long time. Even specific air cooled motorcycle oil. I'm going to go lighter now. The weights aren't really that critical. The difference between 10-30 and 5-30 or 0-20 in this particular application is negligible, if you're using synthetic.

Here's the page from my manual. View attachment 124562
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
The engines in snowblowers all rely on a splash type lubrication, there is no oil pump, filter or pressurized lubrication. Synthetic oil is proven to not thicken as much at low temperatures, therefore it's going to "splash" better than a cold, thick dino oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
I have done my first oil change on my Ariens 30 deluxe efi and have put in the 5-30 synthetic. I also used 1-2 ounces of oil additive that claims it sticks to metal parts to help with dry start. I use the Lucas oil additive, looks and flows like honey ha.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
I have done my first oil change on my Ariens 30 deluxe efi and have put in the 5-30 synthetic. I also used 1-2 ounces of oil additive that claims it sticks to metal parts to help with dry start. I use the Lucas oil additive, looks and flows like honey ha.
My thought is that a quality full synthetic will provide excellent lubrication and protection. What benefit do you see from OTC oil additives in an almost new snow blower?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Meh, I'll toss in an ounce of redline engine break in stuff that adds zinc if I'm lazy, I'm running dino oil in my blower though because the engine is breaking in still. I'll switch to synthetic when I get around to using up the dino oil I already have for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,503 Posts
Meh, I'll toss in an ounce of redline engine break in stuff that adds zinc if I'm lazy, I'm running dino oil in my blower though because the engine is breaking in still. I'll switch to synthetic when I get around to using up the dino oil I already have for it.
No real need to run dino oil to break in an engine today. I use full synthetic Amsoil 10w/30 or 5w/30 in all my small engines from the day I buy them and change it after a relatively short period of time to flush any casting flash and wear metals from the breaking in. I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GT with over 436,000 miles on it with the original engine and original transmission which uses Amsoil ATF. I bought the car back in 2007 when it had 91,000 miles and I switched it over to Amsoil right away and it keeps going like the energizer bunny. Here is a picture with 430,578 miles on it. It is my son's daily driver and a picture of the car. I also rustproof my cars with Amsoil Metal protectant inside of the rocker panels and an exhaust guy said it has very little rust for a 2003 which is driven in the land of the Salt and ice and snow since I live in Minnesota.
 

Attachments

·
Read Only
Joined
·
871 Posts
one thing i see in this thread is that most people today do not know,

almost all of today's motors care factory filled with a syntech blend or that included bottle for break in, in fact a lot come with a full syntech right from day one. by doing a premature oil change during the break in time. we are all guilty (self included) of not giving a engine enough time for those suspended wear particles of helping seat all the moving parts ,before blasting that motor with the super cleaning additives of these new syntech oils that wash away whats needed,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
All of us here have our own approach to machine care - including motor oil. Some (like me) choose full synthetic, others go part way with blends, and many go with conventional. Oil additives are somewhat popular. Some change annually, others focus on usage or perhaps have their own, unique approach.

My view, while it's interesting to pontificate on the one best approach (the holy grail that only we know), the fact is that a reasonable level of motor oil care will allow our snow blowers a long life. After all, most non-commercial snow blowers travel only 1/4 mile or so and operate under 24 hours a year. It's hard to imagine any API current standard motor oil option that will damage a machine over many years, assuming some level of care is taken.

Having said that, my approach is best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
I hope it helps with a dry start ( hopeful thinking) . sometimes the snowblower will sit for quite some time. I put a little in all my small motors (1 ounce or 2 ...no problems yet).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have done my first oil change on my Ariens 30 deluxe efi and have put in the 5-30 synthetic. I also used 1-2 ounces of oil additive that claims it sticks to metal parts to help with dry start. I use the Lucas oil additive, looks and flows like honey ha.
My thought is that a quality full synthetic will
provide excellent lubrication and protection. What benefit do you see from OTC oil additives in an almost new snow blower?
There is no benefit especially with Lucas oil additive which basically is just viscosity index improvers(oil thickener) is the last thing you want in cold weather operations, A quality name synthetic like Mobil 1, Amsoil, royal purple, Redline, etc in the proper viscosity is all you need.
 
41 - 60 of 77 Posts
Top