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No real need to run dino oil to break in an engine today. I use full synthetic Amsoil 10w/30 or 5w/30 in all my small engines from the day I buy them and change it after a relatively short period of time to flush any casting flash and wear metals from the breaking in. I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GT with over 436,000 miles on it with the original engine and original transmission which uses Amsoil ATF. I bought the car back in 2007 when it had 91,000 miles and I switched it over to Amsoil right away and it keeps going like the energizer bunny. Here is a picture with 430,578 miles on it. It is my son's daily driver and a picture of the car. I also rustproof my cars with Amsoil Metal protectant inside of the rocker panels and an exhaust guy said it has very little rust for a 2003 which is driven in the land of the Salt and ice and snow since I live in Minnesota.
That is impressive..the car looks great.
 

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That is impressive..the car looks great.

I also do a transmission drain and fill about every 30,000 miles with Amsoil ATF in addition to regular oil changes at about 10,000 miles. I use Amsoil EA oil filter too which traps over 99.5% of wear particles. Amsoil oil filters are very good and I have used Mobil 1 oil filters too when an EA filter does not exist. I plan on keeping the car until it gets to 1/2 a million miles and right now it is about 64,000 miles away.
 

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its amazing how many miles and non rust for an area with lots of salt....here in upstate ny we use a lot of salt as well.
 

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lets try to keep this thread about type of motor oil!!
for me i'm using walley world super tech full syntech, it's bottled by the warren oil company who bottle for many oem's. 5 qt container today was $14.88 a pretty good deal, esp. for a full syntech
 

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God I wish we were back in the "Good Olde Days" sometimes, especially when I get an OIL headache... If only there could be just ONE! Just went and looked at the oil shelf:

  • 1922 Model T Ford = 30W non-detergent Dino
  • 2004 BMW 325xit = Mobil1 0W40
  • 2013 Subaru Crosstrek = Shell Gas Truck 0W20
  • 2004 Hyundai XG350 = Shell Gas Truck 10W30
  • Mower/Zero Turn/Chipper = Shell Gas Truck 10W30
  • Snowblowers/Generators = Shell Gas Truck 5W30
  • Honda Motorcycles = Honda HP4/HP4S 10W40
  • And a whole bunch of synthetic 2-stroke oils for outboards, chainsaws, trimmers, RC vehicles, etc.
 

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My garage is heated to 42°F so I am using 10W30 Supertech Synthetic in my carbed Ariens Deluxe 30
Waboom, using any full synthetic will give you the performance you desire irrespective of storage. The full synthetic SAE grade temperature ranges are 0W-30: -31F to 95F, 5W-30: -22F to 95F, 10W-30: -13F to 95F. I like full synthetic 5W-30 because it makes it easier to pull-start.
 

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Waboom, using any full synthetic will give you the performance you desire irrespective of storage. The full synthetic SAE grade temperature ranges are 0W-30: -31F to 95F, 5W-30: -22F to 95F, 10W-30: -13F to 95F. I like full synthetic 5W-30 because it makes it easier to pull-start.
Right on. An easy pull start isn't a big priority since it's in 40° garage. Its simpler for me to buy jugs of 10w30 and use the same oil for my John Deere E140.
 

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God I wish we were back in the "Good Olde Days" sometimes, especially when I get an OIL headache... If only there could be just ONE! Just went and looked at the oil shelf:

  • 1922 Model T Ford = 30W non-detergent Dino
  • 2004 BMW 325xit = Mobil1 0W40
  • 2013 Subaru Crosstrek = Shell Gas Truck 0W20
  • 2004 Hyundai XG350 = Shell Gas Truck 10W30
  • Mower/Zero Turn/Chipper = Shell Gas Truck 10W30
  • Snowblowers/Generators = Shell Gas Truck 5W30
  • Honda Motorcycles = Honda HP4/HP4S 10W40
  • And a whole bunch of synthetic 2-stroke oils for outboards, chainsaws, trimmers, RC vehicles, etc.
mercruiser 25w40
harley d is 20w50 for the newer models yet my pan head needs 60w
Cats in the big boat need 15w40
the plane needs 15w50

we can all go crazy just keeping what we need in stock
 

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I have had good luck with Mobil 1 5W-30 Full Synthetic. Not sure what was in the Yamaha YS828W that I just picked up but I know what's going in it now. I always have plenty on hand as a few of my vehicles use it as well. I wait for it to go on sale at Costco when it's $10 off a case of 6 qts = $26.99.
 

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Yes probably -snake oil- ha , but l do not put in much. Did finally get to use my new deluxe 30 efi and put her to the test (40 cm plus of hard packed snow), Will give some detailed pros and cons later. In all , l am satisfied.
 

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I will admit that I have used Marvel Mystery Oil in some of my older 2 stroke weed wackers and backpack blowers as a fuel additive. Just a cap full or so. True story... I bought a brand new Echo BP500T Backpack blower off a guy who had run regular gas in it and seized it. Got it for $50. Drove 7 hours total to get it! I was going to use it for parts. Over last winter I kept adding MMO in the cylinder through the spark plug hole every week. I would try and pull on the recoil each time. Lo and behold after a month the piston started to move. Eventually it was totally free. Last spring I mixed a heavier oil to gas mixture than what it usually runs, 25:1, I believe. Cleaned the plug and fired it up. I smoked out the surrounding neighbors for a while but the thing ran and idled great. I slowly leaned out the gas / oil mix and it stopped smoking and runs great! My wife uses that one as it is lighter than my vintage Solo BP blower that was converted from an orchard sprayer to a leaf blower. I have even added a little MMO to the gas in my Kubota lawn tractor. If nothing else the stuff has a great history behind it. Burt Pierce and the Marvel Carburetor!
 

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MMO is a honestly great product. I've used it several time on new and old cars to free things up, and make noises go away.
 

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You would be fine to run the non-synthetic oil. My wife's car uses 4 quarts of oil (5w30) and normally the quart left over gets dumped into an empty single quart either for future use in one of my four stroke engines (power washer, Honda lawnmower or snowblower) Normally use either Mobil 1, or havoline/valvoline in a semi-synthetic. Never have had an engine issue related to oil....I change annually....and any 5w30 oil is better than no oil.


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Everyone is entitled to their opinion (and a wide variety of opinions is guaranteed when talking about motor oil LOL). Here's my opinion about using "synthetic blend otherwise known as semi-synthetic". If you want the definite superior lubrication advantages of full synthetic, why would you dilute it down with less effective shorter lived dino oil? To me it makes about as much sense as mixing a top shelf Scotch like Glenlivet 18 year old (over $100) with Cutty Sark blended at about $16/bottle.

I run Mobil 1 5W-20 in my 1972 Ariens 7HP 24" which I bought new. Compression is still great, runs like a champ, doesn't burn much oil, change every three years. Here in Rochester NY where avg. snowfall is 100" a snowblower gets a workout.
 

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There is no benefit especially with Lucas oil additive which basically is just viscosity index improvers(oil thickener) is the last thing you want in cold weather operations, A quality name synthetic like Mobil 1, Amsoil, royal purple, Redline, etc in the proper viscosity is all you need.
excellant..i suspected the same but was not sure ..thanks buddy
 

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Everyone has different ideas. Most of us recommend using Synthetic. I run Mobil 0-40 Synthetic in everything except my tillers since they only work in warm weather and usually have a pretty heavy load.
My Walmart stocks it and has the best price.
 

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It gets there from the Humidity in the air.
No, it gets there because the products of complete combustion are Carbon Dioxide and Water (And Carbon Dioxide, Water, and miscellaneous hydrocarbons for incomplete combustion.)
2 C8H18 + 50 O2 --> 16 CO2 + 18 H2O (By Formula)
2 Octane and 50 Oxygen (Yields) 16 Carbon Dioxide and 18 Water (By Name)
 
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