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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. New to this snow blower stuff but it's fun.

Cleaned the carb for the first time. I wasn't able to remove the carb from the engine so I cleaned I removed float and main jet and bowl and cleaned them directly. And, then just sprayed the carb directly with it still on the engine.

I reset the main jet screw and the idle mixture screw by turning counter clockwise from stop, 1 full turn and 1 and 1/2 full turn respectively.

Now, I was ready to start the engine!

I pressed the primer twice and gas started dripping right away from the carb air flow area. Hopefully, that's ok.

I pulled the cord and the cord yanked me back. I yanked it again and the engine started.

The engine seems to be running really really fast so I pushed the throttle down. The engine didn't do anything for a second or two but then the engine slowed down.

I opened up the choke to full but the engine cut out.

I closed the choke and put the throttle back to fast and started the engine. It seems the throttle isn't very responsive. And, it's only fast or idle. There doesn't seem to be any middle ground and it's not very responsive.

Questions:

1. Is it ok that gas was dripping when the primer is pressed just once?
2. Is it ok that the cord yanks back?
3. The throttle doesn't seem to be very responsive. What could the cause of that be?
4. When I open the choke all the way, the engine cuts out. What could the cause of that be?

Sorry if I sound like a newb because I am. Please let me know if there is anything out of the ordinary. Thanks again!
 

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when you choke a running engine. it will DIE OUT. yes the cord is supposed to reel back in. no there should not be gas dripping from the primer area. and the throttle linkage is still binding up. post some pics of this problem that is presenting itself unto us.:eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k::eek:k:
 

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If the engine will only run with the choke closed, you still have a dirty carb and it will need a more thorough cleaning. The throttle response may be attributed to the engine running on a closed choke also. If you post the engine brand an model numbers, someone will find you instructions on how to better clean the carb. We ALL learn from each other and everyone here is more than happy to help you with any problems. The kickback could be a few different things such as, ignition timing is off (usually associated with a points type ignition) or a possible but rare sheared flywheel key, or the dirty carb??

Sorry brother powershift, if the carb is primed to MUCH, gas will drip from the carb throat and is a common occurrence.
 

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If the engine will only run with the choke closed, you still have a dirty carb and it will need a more thorough cleaning. The throttle response may be attributed to the engine running on a closed choke also. If you post the engine brand an model numbers, someone will find you instructions on how to better clean the carb. We ALL learn from each other and everyone here is more than happy to help you with any problems. The kickback could be a few different things such as, ignition timing is off (usually associated with a points type ignition) or a possible but rare sheared flywheel key, or the dirty carb??

Sorry brother powershift, if the carb is primed to MUCH, gas will drip from the carb throat and is a common occurrence.
You are the man there BROTHER GRUNT. you know more about those carbs then I will ever care to know.:emoticon-south-park
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks for the help.

The snow blower is a Toro 824XL, Model Number: 38083 (Serial 7912088).

The snow blower was running pretty well before I touched the carb. The only thing wrong with it before was when I pushed down on the throttle, it wouldn't respond that well. I think the reason was the spring next to the throttle is old and I notice that the governor doesn't move that much as a result.

But, now that I've cleaned the carb and reset the power adjusting screw and the idle mixture screw, it seem the engine revs really really fast now. Also, when I open up the choke to let more air in, the engine dies out.

The engine dying out is probably because I need to let more gas in via the power adjusting screw and the idle mixture screw?

But, I don't know why the engine is running so fast now. Did I put the carb back together incorrectly? I didn't touch the governor or the throttle so don't know why the engine is running so fast now.

Questions

1. How can you measure if an engine is running too fast?
2. What would be causing the engine to run so fast?
3. Why does the engine die when the choke is opened? (mixture is too lean on gas?)

*I've attached a picture. I drew a orange box around the spring that looks old. When I love the throttle up and down, the carburetor linkage doesn't move that much because the spring seems a little old. Or maybe that's normal?

Do they sell replacement kits for this spring?

If the engine will only run with the choke closed, you still have a dirty carb and it will need a more thorough cleaning. The throttle response may be attributed to the engine running on a closed choke also. If you post the engine brand an model numbers, someone will find you instructions on how to better clean the carb. We ALL learn from each other and everyone here is more than happy to help you with any problems. The kickback could be a few different things such as, ignition timing is off (usually associated with a points type ignition) or a possible but rare sheared flywheel key, or the dirty carb??

Sorry brother powershift, if the carb is primed to MUCH, gas will drip from the carb throat and is a common occurrence.
 

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#1- You need a small engine tachometer to accurately set the engine speed to between 3400 and a maximum of 3600 rpm.

#2- Throttle linkage sticking and needs lube?? Throttle speed adjusting screw?? See donyboy73 vide below.

#3- Engine is running to lean and with the choke closed, you restrict air and allow more gas to reach the cylinder. The low speed screw on the side of the carb is initially set to one turn out from lightly seated. The high speed screw on the bottom is set to 1 1/2 turns and both need to be adjusted after the engine is warm to optimum settings for your engine.


Carb rebuild-
Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh (Lauson) Series 3 Carburetor 632334a

Tecumseh engine manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The thing I'm puzzled about is I didn't change the linkages when I cleaned the carb. So wondering why the snow blower is reving like crazy now?

#1- You need a small engine tachometer to accurately set the engine speed to between 3400 and a maximum of 3600 rpm.

#2- Throttle linkage sticking and needs lube?? Throttle speed adjusting screw?? See donyboy73 vide below.

#3- Engine is running to lean and with the choke closed, you restrict air and allow more gas to reach the cylinder. The low speed screw on the side of the carb is initially set to one turn out from lightly seated. The high speed screw on the bottom is set to 1 1/2 turns and both need to be adjusted after the engine is warm to optimum settings for your engine.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDe-VH4X5EA

Carb rebuild-
Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Tecumseh (Lauson) Series 3 Carburetor 632334a

Tecumseh engine manual-
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/manual/tecumsehlheadmanual.pdf
 

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it could be a situation more common for two stroke engines, but does happen with some four strokes. have you ever been mowing the lawn with a push mower and just before it runs out of gas, it revs up a fair bit then dies ? as mentioned, thats what happens when a lean condition occurs.
its quite easy to remove the carb from that engine for a proper cleaning, you just need to take the intake manifold off with carb attached. take pics , mark the linkage location, etc etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the help. I tried removing the carb but one of the screws is stuck. Tried WD40 but didn't work. Wanted to hurry and clean it. But, looks like I'll have to go buy some lquid wrench.

it could be a situation more common for two stroke engines, but does happen with some four strokes. have you ever been mowing the lawn with a push mower and just before it runs out of gas, it revs up a fair bit then dies ? as mentioned, thats what happens when a lean condition occurs.
its quite easy to remove the carb from that engine for a proper cleaning, you just need to take the intake manifold off with carb attached. take pics , mark the linkage location, etc etc.
 

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I will agree that the idle and main screws not being properly set can attribute to the engine not running properly. There is a 3rd screw that adjusts how fast the engine idles with the throttle all the way down. Did you mess with that one? If that is screwed in too far it is full throttle all the time regardless of the setting.

The last thing I didn't see anyone mention was the initial backfire could have been from the carb cleaner. That stuff can be almost as flammable as starting fluid so if you tried to start it before it evaporated that could have added to your issues of the backfire and the flooding from the primer.

The 1 to 1.5 turns out on the 2 screws are just to get the engine running. With those settings it usually won't run well.
 

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In the picture you posted, the throttle is set to the fast position and the throttle plate tab is away from the idle speed screw (normal condition). If you move the throttle to off, does the throttle plate tab rest against the idle speed screw? In the down position(stop), can you push on the linkage to the carb (your orange box) and the spring returns the throttle tab to the idle speed screw? Let us know the answers to continue further. It is possible, although unlikely, that the over speeding and or the backfire damaged the governor assembly inside the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
When I move the throttle off, the throttle plate tab does rest against the idle speed screw. Actually, it rests there before the throttle gets to the idle position. I guess it shouldn't do that.

Also, in the down position, I can move the linkage to the carb and the spring does return to the idle speed screw.

I also notice that the governor doesn't respond to the throttle that well. I'll move the throttle from the fast position a little bit and the governor doesn't move at all. I have to move the throttle about a quarter down before the governor actually moves. Is there a way to get it to be more responsive? Maybe replace the spring? If so, where could I get the spring?

Also, before I cleaned the carb, I used to be able to start on 1 pull but now I need to pull at it 2-3 times. Now, I kinda' regret cleaning the carb but I know it's the best thing to do. =(

Should I also buy a tachometer? I notice on Amazon, they sell for about $25.

Thanks again for your help, guys.




In the picture you posted, the throttle is set to the fast position and the throttle plate tab is away from the idle speed screw (normal condition). If you move the throttle to off, does the throttle plate tab rest against the idle speed screw? In the down position(stop), can you push on the linkage to the carb (your orange box) and the spring returns the throttle tab to the idle speed screw? Let us know the answers to continue further. It is possible, although unlikely, that the over speeding and or the backfire damaged the governor assembly inside the engine.
 

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Worst case scenario you can buy a cheap replacement carb for about 20 bucks. Pretty much plug and play.
Welcome to the forum.
 

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The only down side to that suggestion, would be that the old carb would have to be removed. Then again, have you replaced the governor spring?

And just to see if there is a neighbor that is a member here, whereabouts are you located. Somebody may be able to drop by and scratch their head beside you.
 
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