If the shaft has a simple break and you have both ends, can you use a shaft coupler like one of these to join the parts?
When they're referring to light output, they should be saying lumens (output), not watts (input/consumption). Not to mention heat output (waste/inefficiency), except that it does keep the snow off the lights! :wink2:
If you order it and send it to my business, I'll be happy to forward it to you at cost.
Assuming you're using a standard 5-post Carling-type illuminated switch, here's the wiring schematic. Basically, run source positive to post 2 and jumper it to post 6. Load positive goes on post 3. Ground connects to post 8 and jumpers to post 7.
I believe that what they're trying to advertise is that the LEDs emit about the same number of lumens as a given halogen drawing X watts. Typically the LED arrays draw 1/3 to 1/2 the "wattage" they mention. For example, my 32inch "180W Equivalent" LED light bar (which is incredibly bright - photos here: https://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...69-post13.html) draws about 6.5amps with no charging occurring, i.e. hooked directly to a battery through a meter. So 12V*6.5A=78W actual draw/180W = 43% of the equivalent halogen that would consume 180W while wasting lots of it as heat.
I guess my point is that they apparently publish watt equivalences as though they are actual current draw, simply because they don't know the difference. I have sampled numerous LED arrays now (more than 10) and they have always drawn 1/3 to 1/2 the current that the published spec calls for.
It depends on whether your blower supplies AC or DC and whether your LED already has a built-in rectifier to accept AC.
You haven't mentioned what make/model blower you have, but that's listed as a DC-only light, so you must have a machine that generates DC - you lucked out.
I installed a set of those on my Toro Zero Turn mower. They actually draw a fraction of 18W, so you should be OK.
It appears that these have the necessary circuitry to work on A/C.
These do not, so probably D/C only.
Only the ones with the onboard circuitry are suitable for A/C use. Another clue is if they state that they're iBus/CanBus compatible, which also requires onboard circuitry.
You'll need to get your engine model & serial numbers and then look up what lighting coil your engine is equipped with.
They can be 15W or 25W or 50W...
An HS928 lighting coil would be 50W maximum, which would be two 25W coils with no charging coil installed.
No, those are Husqvarna drift cutters and a 32" LED light bar kind of like yours... And now it also has a Gripo auger housing extension...
Are you sure you have it wired as shown in the diagram? With illuminated switches it's easy to do it incorrectly. If you're seeing DC voltage that high, you may also need a regulator in the circuit.
But my cell phone warp charger requires 6A @ 5V = 30W...
Ground path for an illuminated switch LED?
The Search Community box at the top of the page with the "In This Thread" option would help you quickly narrow your search without having to read every post...
