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The stick between the flywheel and the alternator is broken...
If the shaft has a simple break and you have both ends, can you use a shaft coupler like one of these to join the parts?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5mm-Moto...6aa9042ee:m:mcBNXk4k431P8F2v5LUYRKQ:rk:1:pf:0

Or is this by any chance the correct part?
https://www.ebay.com/p/Tecumseh-Alt...LK-Packing/2292124494?iid=263790685788&chn=ps

Or this one?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-NE...h=item4d70db1cb8:g:z8AAAOSw5cJawNg0:rk:3:pf:0
 

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...I can't say for sure but you might be getting confused on someone saying they went to an LED with more light output (watts) but at the same watt draw...
When they're referring to light output, they should be saying lumens (output), not watts (input/consumption). Not to mention heat output (waste/inefficiency), except that it does keep the snow off the lights! :wink2:
 

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Don't really know why it's always the americans who don't want to sell to anyone outside their country. I wonder if they would sell to me if I showed them that I got an american passport as well ;P
If you order it and send it to my business, I'll be happy to forward it to you at cost.

Focused on You
162 U.S. Route One
Scarborough, ME 04074-8975

I've already done this for a couple of list members in Canada.
 

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Can anyone explain how to wire the switch ?
Assuming you're using a standard 5-post Carling-type illuminated switch, here's the wiring schematic. Basically, run source positive to post 2 and jumper it to post 6. Load positive goes on post 3. Ground connects to post 8 and jumpers to post 7.

In this example, "Dual LED Light Bars" will be illuminated whenever the blower is running, and the light bars icon will illuminate when the switch is On.
 

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I recently upgraded all of the lights on my Case 580SK from their original incandescent sealed beams to LED light bars and spots. Each of the LED lights had a current consumption rating, and I picked them based on using just a bit less current than the incandescents I was replacing so I would get the maximum light possible. But when I hooked them up at home, they consumed about half their rated current!
I believe that what they're trying to advertise is that the LEDs emit about the same number of lumens as a given halogen drawing X watts. Typically the LED arrays draw 1/3 to 1/2 the "wattage" they mention. For example, my 32inch "180W Equivalent" LED light bar (which is incredibly bright - photos here: https://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...69-post13.html) draws about 6.5amps with no charging occurring, i.e. hooked directly to a battery through a meter. So 12V*6.5A=78W actual draw/180W = 43% of the equivalent halogen that would consume 180W while wasting lots of it as heat.
 

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But those that I've actually worked with and tested 1) published pure electrical specs, not "incandescent equivalents" or whatever; and 2) ended up actually consuming about half what they spec'd. I wish I had a calibrated way to measure lumens because it would be nice to know if I'm getting the full published lumen output for half the current, or if LED light bars and spots are just habitually overspec'd by 50%.
I guess my point is that they apparently publish watt equivalences as though they are actual current draw, simply because they don't know the difference. I have sampled numerous LED arrays now (more than 10) and they have always drawn 1/3 to 1/2 the current that the published spec calls for.
 

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I added a auger housing led light. All I did was tap into the original headlight wiring. Been running 2 seasons with no issues. Keep reading about these rectifiers and wonder why you need them.
It depends on whether your blower supplies AC or DC and whether your LED already has a built-in rectifier to accept AC.
 

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I tapped into the original headlight wiring and yeah.. 2 seasons now.. No problems.
You haven't mentioned what make/model blower you have, but that's listed as a DC-only light, so you must have a machine that generates DC - you lucked out.
 

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"Built-in IC Circuit of wide Voltage Range 10-30V AC to prevent LED Bulbs from being damaged by voltage variation and spikes."
It appears that these have the necessary circuitry to work on A/C.

But I noticed other (brighter) options that do not explicitly state that they can operate off of AC.
These do not, so probably D/C only.

Can all these new LED lights operate off AC or DC, or is that a special feature only on some of them?
Only the ones with the onboard circuitry are suitable for A/C use. Another clue is if they state that they're iBus/CanBus compatible, which also requires onboard circuitry.
 

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I read somewhere that some 928 Hondas stators only put out 15W
They can be 15W or 25W or 50W...
I find it hard to believe that they would have put in a much stronger stator for a 928
An HS928 lighting coil would be 50W maximum, which would be two 25W coils with no charging coil installed.
 
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the switch doesn't turn off the light.
Are you sure you have it wired as shown in the diagram? With illuminated switches it's easy to do it incorrectly. If you're seeing DC voltage that high, you may also need a regulator in the circuit.
 

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Hey guy's, I am not about to read through 1500+ post to look for what I think I read on here., Are there led light bars that will work on 12V ac/dc? If so will the work on the blower without adding a bridge rectifier? And if so how do you tell if a light would? Thanks'
The Search Community box at the top of the page with the "In This Thread" option would help you quickly narrow your search without having to read every post...

You want to insure that the lightbar has a built in rectifier (and perhaps a regulator) to accept an input of 10-30V A/C or D/C.
 
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