[theeplaymaker]

Here is what I was trying to explain. The red wire going to the lights is the AC power and the green wire goes to a ground on the motor if I traced it right. Plan was to cut into them and mount the rectifier in between the two lights. Also I am still not 100% sure how you splice the caps in. I was looking at this at work and pictures don't show up, are there any pictures in this thread of the wiring of the caps? I know what they look like and how they work just want to make sure I do the best job I can once the rectifier arrives.

 

[superedge88]

Here is what I was trying to explain. The red wire going to the lights is the AC power and the green wire goes to a ground on the motor if I traced it right. Plan was to cut into them and mount the rectifier in between the two lights. Also I am still not 100% sure how you splice the caps in. I was looking at this at work and pictures don't show up, are there any pictures in this thread of the wiring of the caps? I know what they look like and how they work just want to make sure I do the best job I can once the rectifier arrives.

Splice the cap(s) in as if it was a battery, so connect from rectifier + and - then from the capacitor + and - to the leds.

 

[J_ph]

warm vs cool light?

Are warm LEDs of the same wattage less bright? Do you find that the higher kelvin (more blue) better or worse in snow. I just tried a direct replacement LED lamp which was close but not as bright. But even so I was biased to the warmer color of the incandescent.

what are your thoughts on the color of the lamps?

Also, the LED that I used to replace a 1141 bulb BA15s base, was listed as 4w ac/dc and used 126 SMD LEDs of a current style. They must be including some electronics to control the flicker because there was none visible.

Are any of the Cree 10w spot/work lights like this photo built with components to reduce flicker?

 

[Coby7]

I personnally prefer the whiter light just as it turns to blue, so around 5300-5800°K. You are definitely into the bluish tint at 6000°K. On my cars I run 5300°K when I can find them. Most of these lights are designed for boats and motorcycles and input voltage ranges from 10-30V. Here are typical specs for one.


Operating Voltage: 10-30V DC
Waterproof rate: IP 67
Beam Pattern: Flood beam,Spot beam
Color Temperature: 6000K (pure white)
Material: Diecast aluminum housing
Lens material: PMMA lens
Mounting Bracket: Stainless Steel
Theoretical Lumens Output: 1400 LM
LED Power: 18W (6pcs*3w CREE high intensity LEDs )

 

[J_ph]

btw, your Yamaha is outstanding!

It seems like most LEDs either go too warm or too cool, here's the fixture that I'd really like to mount on my snowthrower:

 

[superedge88]

warm vs cool light?

Are warm LEDs of the same wattage less bright? Do you find that the higher kelvin (more blue) better or worse in snow. I just tried a direct replacement LED lamp which was close but not as bright. But even so I was biased to the warmer color of the incandescent.

what are your thoughts on the color of the lamps?

Also, the LED that I used to replace a 1141 bulb BA15s base, was listed as 4w ac/dc and used 126 SMD LEDs of a current style. They must be including some electronics to control the flicker because there was none visible.

Are any of the Cree 10w spot/work lights like this photo built with components to reduce flicker?

The cree light you posted does not come with any rectification, very few floodlights that I have found do.
The Kelvin temperature is VERY relative. Home bulbs, compared to car bulbs compared to aquarium lighting etc. all can vary quite a bit as far as what they'll call 6000K, 10,000K etc. As a general rule, if the LED light is listed as White you should assume that there is a touch of blue to the light. The color rendering of a "white" LED light is typically not as good as a Warm LED light. Warm LED lights are pretty darn close to the yellow light of and incandescent and are better at color rendering to our eyes since our eyes have evolved to utilize this color temperature of light. Color rendering is not very important in a snowblower light, after all, everything is white as snow when you are blowing. I actually prefer the White LED lights for snowblowing because it is very bright, and very noticeable when folks are driving by the end of the driveway which can keep you a little bit safer.
It is not difficult to wire up a rectifier for your situation, if you need help just ask questions.

 

[Coby7]

The Kelvin scale is a set scale 4300°K is daylight and is predertimed by it's emmited wavelenght. Different people might perceive it as a different color depending on their eye's acuity, colorblind people need no explanation. So setting the temperature of an emitting Diode is not done by color but rather measured by a wavelenght measuring meter. Photographers used these. Color temperature meter.

The only reason I prefer 5300°K is because it makes whites more visible like lettering on signs, deer chest & tail and of course the side line on the road. Very important. None of these will be a factor in your yard of course and you don't want too bright either or you will wash out any edges giving contour to your work.


The color your eye is most sensitive to is yellow towards the green around 3200°K but not a lot of yellow with snow so I'm still going with white as a good source of light in the snow. I assume that's why Yamaha went with white LEDs.

 

[J_ph]

>I prefer 5300°K

That's actually quite close to the 5500K that is used by the photo industry for standard daylight. It's a good number use for neutral white, but I find that the LEDs tend to go much bluer than than my preference. I'd be happy anything in that neighborhood.

 

[superedge88]

The Kelvin scale is a set scale 4300°K is daylight and is predertimed by it's emmited wavelenght. Different people might perceive it as a different color depending on their eye's acuity, colorblind people need no explanation. So setting the temperature of an emitting Diode is not done by color but rather measured by a wavelenght measuring meter. Photographers used these. Color temperature meter.

The only reason I prefer 5300°K is because it makes whites more visible like lettering on signs, deer chest & tail and of course the side line on the road. Very important. None of these will be a factor in your yard of course and you don't want too bright either or you will wash out any edges giving contour to your work.


The color your eye is most sensitive to is yellow towards the green around 3200°K but not a lot of yellow with snow so I'm still going with white as a good source of light in the snow. I assume that's why Yamaha went with white LEDs.

This is all assuming that they are actually using a photometer to "rate" the bulbs. The scale itself is pretty straight forward, but within different industries the rating is VERY relative. A metal halide aquarium bulb that is 10,000k is very white with nary a hint of blue. An HID bulb for you car that is rated as 10,000k has a ton of blue. Kelvin ratings are sadly only as honest as the company that stamps it on the bulb.

 

[Coby7]

Unfortunately your right, some companies do intentionally misrepresent their product because consumers think that the higher °K number the brighter the light which is not the case. A 100W 4300°K has about 40% more visible light than the same wattage 6000°K. So in a perfect world with all honest people consumers would better understand and would be able to make better choices. I like 5300°K because to me and my eyes it seems to be right of the verge at turning blue. If they made 5000°K I would probably get those but the closest I found were these.

 

[Coby7]

I just ordered the light which I posted specs for previously. I will do some comparitive test when it is delivered. Since I have a light meter I'll also do a brightness test at 1 metre. The only thing that I hope is that the power cord is long enough that I don't have to splice it. Lenght is not specified.

 

[J_ph]

If you own photoshop and a camera that can shoot in RAW format you can approximate the color temp without a color meter.

I just purchased a 2 pack of those headband/headlight LEDs from Costco for $10 because I want to look even more ridiculous when I'm out in the middle of the night with my snowthrower

I actually purchased them to help out with some minor plumbing projects, but they are surprisingly good. I may just give them a try in the outdoors!

 

[SumDumJerk]

I put 2 of these Cree's on my Craftsman.....the cord was 12-14 inches If I had to guess....2 of them run very bright on a 9hp Tecumseh

 

[Coby7]

Does your craftman have a battery for electric start?

 

[J_ph]

I found the following information about the current MTD 357cc, would this change any of the instructions that you have for installing an LED light system? Do the installed diodes eliminate the need for the additional bridge or do all stators include diodes to run DC halogen bulbs, but still need an additional rectifier to smooth it out further for LEDs? There are 2 leads from the stator, why do they test one wire for AC and the other for DC? Is half the system DC? thanks in advance...

The charging system used on MTD engines consists of three
components, the rotor, stator and the rectifier….

Rectifier: A set of four diodes that convert the AC
current into DC current. The rectifier is built into the
stator and it is not serviceable.

Set the multimeter to read AC voltage. Back probe the red wire of the charger harness. The multimeter should read 17 - 26Vdc

Back probe the red wire of the charger harness. Back probe the yellow wire in the charger harness with the red (+) lead of the multimeter. The multimeter should read a voltage of 13 - 18Vac

pg 78 -

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/MTD...epair-Manuals/MTD-Big-Bore-Engines-78-277cc-83-357cc-90-420cc-Repair-Manual.pdf

 

[Coby7]

The bridge rectifier he's talking about converts a sinusoidal wave to DC but without a large capacitor you will have AC riding on the DC above the battery Voltage. Let me see If I can find drawings, if not I'll draw it myself.

 

[J_ph]

thanks, this unit uses an AC starter motor so there's no battery, but there are 2 separate leads, one is intended for heated grips and the other is for the halogen light. Not sure if this makes any difference...

Also, I do see that a new Craftsmen ships with an LED lamp, and uses the same motor but I can't find any parts manuals to see what they used.

33" Gas Snow Blower: Clear Your Drive With Power from Sears

 

[Coby7]

Okay couldn't find clear enough drawings so did these on Paint.

What comes out of the stator is AC voltage. This means it has positive and negative voltage alternating and passing through zero volts at each half cycle or twice through one periode.



Once it passes through the 4 diodes (bridge) it get's fully rectified and you get this wave now DC with AC component but not going negative anymore.



Now when you add the battery in the circuit you will get a DC component (drawn here in green) but will still have some AC riding on top of the battery and this is what charges your battery.



If you have any questions just ask.

 

[Coby7]

thanks, this unit uses an AC starter motor so there's no battery, but there are 2 separate leads, one is intended for heated grips and the other is for the halogen light. Not sure if this makes any difference...

Also, I do see that a new Craftsmen ships with an LED lamp, and uses the same motor but I can't find any parts manuals to see what they used.

You are correct and LED light doesn't need a battery but it does need DC. Heating elements on the other hand can be heated by AC or DC same as an incandescent bulb. If you slow the engine enough you will see LED flicker because of the AC riding on the DC unless regulated by light circuitry.

 

[J_ph]

Okay couldn't find clear enough drawings so did these on Paint.

amazing... I don't really understand it but being able to draw these is still amazing! Looks like I will need some time to dedicate to understanding this before venturing forward.