[Toooldforshoveling]

HI all,

I am planning my LED hookup to my new Ariens Deluxe 30 and I'm wondering where the 2 capacitors go. I can see one from DC + to DC - but where does the other one go? The thread is so long, its hard to find the answer in it.

Also does anyone have a schematic drawn up of this task. I speak schematic better than words.

Thanks in advance

After posting i found a schematic and it seems that the 2 caps suggested here should both go from DC+ t0 DC-...........correct?
The schematic shows one but I'm assuming 2 are suggested here to add more capacitance.....correct?

 

[hfjeff]

HI all,

I am planning my LED hookup to my new Ariens Deluxe 30 and I'm wondering where the 2 capacitors go. I can see one from DC + to DC - but where does the other one go? The thread is so long, its hard to find the answer in it.

Also does anyone have a schematic drawn up of this task. I speak schematic better than words.

Thanks in advance

After posting i found a schematic and it seems that the 2 caps suggested here should both go from DC+ t0 DC-...........correct?
The schematic shows one but I'm assuming 2 are suggested here to add more capacitance.....correct?

Yes, they both go in the same spot next to each other in parallel. So the schematic shows 1 but use 2. The leads on the capacitor are marked + and -. Make sure you get the polarity correct.

 

[Toooldforshoveling]

Thanks hfjeff........
So last night I got under my blower and drew a wiring diagram of what exists there now. This includes the halogen light, the hand grip heaters and the hand grip switch.
I then added my circuit which includes the rectifier, caps, on/off switch, led light and fuse.
I would really appreciate if someone here could just take a look at the attached and check that my wiring plan looks good.

Thank you in advance, Jim

 

[JerryR]

Thanks hfjeff........
So last night I got under my blower and drew a wiring diagram of what exists there now. This includes the halogen light, the hand grip heaters and the hand grip switch.
I then added my circuit which includes the rectifier, caps, on/off switch, led light and fuse.
I would really appreciate if someone here could just take a look at the attached and check that my wiring plan looks good.

Thank you in advance, Jim

Why did you Chassis ground one side of the AC input to the bridge rect. ? (I have the 24' deluxe(921045) and it too comes out with 2 wires to power the light and grip warmers, but neither Red nor Black wires are at chassis ground.-Is yours actually grounded?
Did you power up the system the way it's drawn? did it work?
HTH
JerryR

 

[Toooldforshoveling]

Why did you Chassis ground one side of the AC input to the bridge rect. ? (I have the 24' deluxe(921045) and it too comes out with 2 wires to power the light and grip warmers, but neither Red nor Black wires are at chassis ground.-Is yours actually grounded?
Did you power up the system the way it's drawn? did it work?
HTH
JerryR

Hi Jerry,
Thankfully you picked up on my one concern. When skimming thru this thread, I kept seeing that you had to chassis ground the other AC input. I assumed it is because the black AC input wire is chassis grounded but maybe its not. I did plan on ohm-ing that wire out tonight and if it is not chassis gnd then I will just run the black wire to it.
I haven't done anything yet, I'm still planning it out. I'm curious why the thread mentions chassis gnd for the other AC wire though.

 

[Toooldforshoveling]

This is from the very first thread by superedge88:
"By connecting the positive and negative from your LED light(s) to the DC output of your bridge rectifier, and then connecting your single headlight circuit wire to your one of the AC inputs of the bridge rectifier (it doesn't matter which AC input) and then attaching a wire from the metal of your snowblower to the other AC input you will have light!"

This is from page 82 by MnP40c:
"To complete this install, take the yellow wire that comes from the engine (stock halogen bulb) and connect it to a 5AMP inline fuse, then connect the fuse to the AC+ connector on the bridge rectifier. The AC- on the bridge rectifier needs to be grounded to the snowblower (this can be grounded to any part of the frame or control housing)."

Why chassis ground guys? Why not bring it back to the other AC input wire? Is it chassis gnd on some machines and not others?

Thanks

 

[JerryR]

This is from the very first thread by superedge88:
"By connecting the positive and negative from your LED light(s) to the DC output of your bridge rectifier, and then connecting your single headlight circuit wire to your one of the AC inputs of the bridge rectifier (it doesn't matter which AC input) and then attaching a wire from the metal of your snowblower to the other AC input you will have light!"

This is from page 82 by MnP40c:
"To complete this install, take the yellow wire that comes from the engine (stock halogen bulb) and connect it to a 5AMP inline fuse, then connect the fuse to the AC+ connector on the bridge rectifier. The AC- on the bridge rectifier needs to be grounded to the snowblower (this can be grounded to any part of the frame or control housing)."

Why chassis ground guys? Why not bring it back to the other AC input wire? Is it chassis gnd on some machines and not others?
Thanks

I think they are talking about older machines that had only one wire(yellow or red) come out, and used chassis ground to complete the circuit.
If I were to add lights I would tap into the 2 wires coming from the engine.
If you were to ground the bridge the way you drew it, I don't think it will work.
btw I assume it's a typo-one of the diodes on the left side of the bridge is drawn backwards.
HTH
JerryR

 

[Toooldforshoveling]

I think they are talking about older machines that had only one wire(yellow or red) come out, and used chassis ground to complete the circuit.
If I were to add lights I would tap into the 2 wires coming from the engine.
If you were to ground the bridge the way you drew it, I don't think it will work.
btw I assume it's a typo-one of the diodes on the left side of the bridge is drawn backwards.
HTH
JerryR

I believe you are correct on all accounts Jerry. I just verified that the AC wire is not grounded to chassis and that it is putting out 15V.
I think I'm ready to start installing. Thanks for all your help and flipping that one diode makes the bridge make sense now lol
Thanks again

 

[Motor City]

Also, shouldn't he have the fuse on the (Hot) yellow wire? I put mine on that wire, before my switch.

 

[Toooldforshoveling]

Also, shouldn't he have the fuse on the (Hot) yellow wire? I put mine on that wire, before my switch.

Hi Motor City,
I did change that as well. I guess you can put it on either side but ground returns can be funny if there was a short so the hot is recommended.
Thanks

 

[MnP40c]

I think they are talking about older machines that had only one wire(yellow or red) come out, and used chassis ground to complete the circuit.
If I were to add lights I would tap into the 2 wires coming from the engine.
If you were to ground the bridge the way you drew it, I don't think it will work.
btw I assume it's a typo-one of the diodes on the left side of the bridge is drawn backwards.
HTH
JerryR

Now I am wondering if I wired my lights wrong (even though they seem to be working fine). I chassis grounded the AC- from the rectifier only because I thought that was what Superedge 88 had recommended. Out of the two wires coming from the stator (the yellow and black wires), I used only the yellow one (which ran to the AC+ on the rectifier). I left the black wire not connected to anything. Although I guess I could have (or should have) run that black wire to the AC- on the rectifier? Do you think I should fix this, or leave it as is?

 

[Toooldforshoveling]

Now I am wondering if I wired my lights wrong (even though they seem to be working fine). I chassis grounded the AC- from the rectifier only because I thought that was what Superedge 88 had recommended. Out of the two wires coming from the stator (the yellow and black wires), I used only the yellow one (which ran to the AC+ on the rectifier). I left the black wire not connected to anything. Although I guess I could have (or should have) run that black wire to the AC- on the rectifier? Do you think I should fix this, or leave it as is?

I would measure the voltage out of the diode bridge. Maybe you are using it like a half bridge but still somehow you have to complete the circuit. Could it be happening within the light? If so, the lights ground would have to be tied to chassis.
Keep us posted please, I'd like to understand how this could have worked for you.
Thanks

 

[JerryR]

I can't explain why it works and I'm surprised that it even work, unless on your machine the black wire is grounded to the chassis at some point.
I would check to see if the black wire is grounded, and if it's not grounded, I would tap the 2 wires coming out of the engine.
HTH
JerryR

 

[MnP40c]

I would measure the voltage out of the diode bridge. Maybe you are using it like a half bridge but still somehow you have to complete the circuit. Could it be happening within the light? If so, the lights ground would have to be tied to chassis.
Keep us posted please, I'd like to understand how this could have worked for you.
Thanks

It is strange, I may just go ahead and connect the black wire to the AC- on the rectifier, and remove the chassis ground I had in place to see what happens. I have not been out to check the snowblower today, but I remember checking the voltage of the wires between the headlight switch I installed and the LED lights. The voltage ranged from about 9V at low throttle, to 16V at high throttle. The lights do flicker a little bit at low throttle (which I figured is due to the low voltage). When at full throttle, there is no flickering whatsoever. Before I put the rectifier in, I believe the AC voltage had about the same range 9V to 16V.

The rectifier is secure to the chassis of the snowblower using a nut and bolt, that is if the rectifier has its own ground? The only other thing grounded to the chassis came from the AC- on the rectifer.

I can't explain why it works and I'm surprised that it even work, unless on your machine the black wire is grounded to the chassis at some point.
I would check to see if the black wire is grounded, and if it's not grounded, I would tap the 2 wires coming out of the engine.
HTH
JerryR

It does not appear that the black wire is grounded (it just ran from the engine direct to the stock bulb, and is currently hanging loose). I think I will try removing the ground I made between AC- and the chassis, and connect the black wire to the AC- on the rectifier like it was supposed to be. We'll see what happens.

Sorry guys, I'm not the best at electrical, still learning here I'd like to make sure my setup is correct, and understand what I did, or didn't do correctly.

 

[MnP40c]

It is strange, I may just go ahead and connect the black wire to the AC- on the rectifier, and remove the chassis ground I had in place to see what happens. I have not been out to check the snowblower today, but I remember checking the voltage of the wires between the headlight switch I installed and the LED lights. The voltage ranged from about 9V at low throttle, to 16V at high throttle. The lights do flicker a little bit at low throttle (which I figured is due to the low voltage). When at full throttle, there is no flickering whatsoever. Before I put the rectifier in, I believe the AC voltage had about the same range 9V to 16V.

The rectifier is secure to the chassis of the snowblower using a nut and bolt, that is if the rectifier has its own ground? The only other thing grounded to the chassis came from the AC- on the rectifer.



It does not appear that the black wire is grounded (it just ran from the engine direct to the stock bulb, and is currently hanging loose). I think I will try removing the ground I made between AC- and the chassis, and connect the black wire to the AC- on the rectifier like it was supposed to be. We'll see what happens.

Sorry guys, I'm not the best at electrical, still learning here I'd like to make sure my setup is correct, and understand what I did, or didn't do correctly.

Hey Guys, just a quick update. So I tried connecting the black wire running from engine to the AC- on the bridge rectifier, and the LED lights run just the same as they did when the AC- on the bridge rectifier was grounded. So despite the fact that the black wire from the engine isn't being used, it seem that grounding the AC- from the bridge rectifier to the chassis has the same outcome. Again, I am not sure if the way I have things setup is "technically" right, but it seems to be working for me. Any more thoughts or suggestions is much appreciated

 

[Toooldforshoveling]

Hey Guys, just a quick update. So I tried connecting the black wire running from engine to the AC- on the bridge rectifier, and the LED lights run just the same as they did when the AC- on the bridge rectifier was grounded. So despite the fact that the black wire from the engine isn't being used, it seem that grounding the AC- from the bridge rectifier to the chassis has the same outcome. Again, I am not sure if the way I have things setup is "technically" right, but it seems to be working for me. Any more thoughts or suggestions is much appreciated

Yeah there is something strange about this. I work in the electronics field in engineering and I ran it by my boss and he feels that unless that black wire from the stator is chassis grounded, it should not work by grounding the rectifier AC- to chassis.
Personally I think there is a phenomenon or missing piece of information that would explain why it can work both ways. The stator information is an unknown other than the output and I find it somehow relevant that in older machines only one wire came out. Maybe the connection to chassis is thru the stator somehow when its running and cannot be ohmed out. I don't know but my curiousity is peaked right now lol.

 

[JerryR]

Stab in the dark-maybe it gets grounded while the engine is running???(centrifugal switch?)
Or it's going to remain a mystery.
JerryR

 

[JnC]

So my YS624W does have a lighting coil and I need to figure out if it can handle a 27W LED spot light. I have done some research online and have been getting different answers, some say since the factory bulb is 18W the max output from the coil is 18W and there have been some places where people suggest its 21~23 watts.

How do I check it with a multimeter as to what the coil is producing at max RPM.

 

[Toooldforshoveling]

So my YS624W does have a lighting coil and I need to figure out if it can handle a 27W LED spot light. I have done some research online and have been getting different answers, some say since the factory bulb is 18W the max output from the coil is 18W and there have been some places where people suggest its 21~23 watts.

How do I check it with a multimeter as to what the coil is producing at max RPM.

I believe that if you can measure the voltage at full RPM with the 18W factory load in place and then do the same with the 27W load in place, that if the voltage didn't drop off then that shows that you have not reached max full load current of the coil.

 

[vapeden]

I'm about to purchase a new Ariens Compact 24" blower and I was wondering if you can find an led bulb that will fit in the OEM housing? I read somewhere that they found an led with the same connector harness but the bulb itself didn't fit in the housing tabs. If I can find a bulb that works I can do the wiring to keep it from flickering. Thanks.