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Following this diagram, is there a way I could use a On/Off/On Toggle, to use my existing snow blower light, off, or new lights?
This is what I am doing with mine so it would be either old or New. Like toggling your brights using a Latching Push Button; Latching STDP Switch: Push it, New (Green LED lit); Push it again, Old (Green LED Not Lit); Contact Configuration: 1NO–1NC; Protection level: IP65, IK10 . . .
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for this . . .
Table Gas Machine Wood Bumper

 

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Hi Ya'All,

Would something like this be correct? I went through this forum and combined a few examples into this. I do not have an electrical background and want to make sure I am doing this right before I slice and dice. Is there anything else I should consider?
That'd be like what I'm doing. Except it's a STDP, Single Throw, Dual Pole Switch. Either/Or. And am using a sealed voltage converter. 24VAC/60w to 12VDC. Come to find out the light fixture on the Halogen bulb for my regular light has a built-in Bridge Rectifier. 🤞
 

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This is what I am doing with mine so it would be either old or New. Like toggling your brights using a Latching Push Button; Latching STDP Switch: Push it, New (Green LED lit); Push it again, Old (Green LED Not Lit); Contact Configuration: 1NO–1NC; Protection level: IP65, IK10 . . .

for this . . .
I like the look. Where did you get the light and switch?

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
 

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Hey guy's, I am not about to read through 1500+ post to look for what I think I read on here., Are there led light bars that will work on 12V ac/dc? If so will the work on the blower without adding a bridge rectifier? And if so how do you tell if a light would? Thanks'
 

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Hey guy's, I am not about to read through 1500+ post to look for what I think I read on here., Are there led light bars that will work on 12V ac/dc? If so will the work on the blower without adding a bridge rectifier? And if so how do you tell if a light would? Thanks'
The Search Community box at the top of the page with the "In This Thread" option would help you quickly narrow your search without having to read every post...

You want to insure that the lightbar has a built in rectifier (and perhaps a regulator) to accept an input of 10-30V A/C or D/C.
 

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Probably posted this before but if you have a metal control panel you can use one of these with a magnetic base.
LED with rechargeable battery. About $27 buckeroos from Amazon.

super bright. It also has different brightness levels as well as Red flashing option. Not sure what you would use that for. Maybe to summon emergency help?
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I haven't read every post in this thread so apologies if this link has been posted before. Today I stumbled across this very well done youtube video on installing LED lights on a snowblower that does not have a generator coil on it and uses battery power. Nothing new there.

The twist is that he uses a DeWalt power tool battery with an adapter and step down converter (aka buck converter) to get the DC voltage to 12v. He also provides links to battery adapters for Milwaukee, Makita, and Black & Decker batteries. This way you're using batteries that you already have and keep charged up for other uses and don't have to buy a battery for use only a few times a year.

He also installed little "puddle lights" under the dash to light up where your feet are. Pretty cool, I thought. It's one of the better done "how-to" videos I've ever seen - not a lot of fluff but everything is thoroughly explained.

 

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Hello
I'm new to this forum.

I've read quite a bit of this forum and I've decided to add some LED light to the old girl.

My snowblowe is a Canadian Tire Yard Works with a 10.5 hp tecumseh engine.

I'm planning to add two of these lights:
Font Material property Menu Electric blue Tree
Grille Rectangle Wood Automotive lighting Gas



Using this setup:
Rectangle Handwriting Font Parallel Drawing



Here are some pics of my machine:
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle
Automotive parking light Grille Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle
Finger Bullet Household hardware Material property Key
Motor vehicle Trunk Automotive exterior Bumper Gas


One quick question. Any way to replace that bulp with a LED??
Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance.
 

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Would you happen to know the wattage of your stator?

I think(perhaps someone else here has the spec) those engines only had like 2 or 3 amps and that's like 20/30'ish watts....Each of those flood LED's are 30 watts for 60'ish watts total. Try it see what it does, worse case they're dim or just won't come on all all. No worries either way, your blower will be fine either way.

That incandescent bulb(21 watts typical) can be replaced typically by something like THIS(11 watts) or THIS(2.8 watts), so switching to either will buy you some wattage that can help add to the possible under'age you might have with the two flood LED's.
 

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Would you happen to know the wattage of your stator?

I think(perhaps someone else here has the spec) those engines only had like 2 or 3 amps and that's like 20/30'ish watts....Each of those flood LED's are 30 watts for 60'ish watts total. Try it see what it does, worse case they're dim or just won't come on all all. No worries either way, your blower will be fine either way.

That incandescent bulb(21 watts typical) can be replaced typically by something like THIS(11 watts) or THIS(2.8 watts), so switching to either will buy you some wattage that can help add to the possible above under'age.
Thank you for replying! Much appreciated. I'll get a reading this weekend and post it here.

Regarding the light you and Onacer posted, would I need to hook up a recifier and capicitors if I was just changing the bulb??
 

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Regarding the light you and Onacer posted, would I need to hook up a recifier and capicitors if I was just changing the bulb??
Good catch...

✔【Attention】This bulb support used range is DC9-30v, in some special models can not be used:used in some alternating current motorcycle,connect car electric machinery or some truck(High starting voltage height DC38V).

They do claim "chip set", but mixed with "DC9-30V range" which, to me say's it'll also work on AC, but I'm not so good at Chinese re-interpreted to English re: the motorcycle app in the above statement, so I just put my spare 2.8 Watt model on a AC 60Hz power supply @ around 15VAC.......

Light Gas Wood Circuit component Electric blue


You should be good with pure AC, yes. That stator may already have a rectifier built in, some do, some don't, won't matter looks like. I run this same bulb on my TB and I believe(not firm on documentation source) that headlight circuit is also pure AC.
Water Automotive lighting Light Vehicle Automotive tire


Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Slope


If you need the 11 Watt model tested, let me know, I have those in my Honda for back ups, BUT easily tested as well.
 

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I haven't read every post in this thread so apologies if this link has been posted before. Today I stumbled across this very well done youtube video on installing LED lights on a snowblower that does not have a generator coil on it and uses battery power. Nothing new there.

The twist is that he uses a DeWalt power tool battery with an adapter and step down converter (aka buck converter) to get the DC voltage to 12v. He also provides links to battery adapters for Milwaukee, Makita, and Black & Decker batteries. This way you're using batteries that you already have and keep charged up for other uses and don't have to buy a battery for use only a few times a year.

He also installed little "puddle lights" under the dash to light up where your feet are. Pretty cool, I thought. It's one of the better done "how-to" videos I've ever seen - not a lot of fluff but everything is thoroughly explained.

I'm in the process of doing this but without a voltage reducer as the lights I have are cube lights rated for 9 - 30VDC. I have bench tested them and they work. I was going to go with a single 6 LED flood/spot light but I also had the cubes and they are 1500lm vs 1260lm for the other light. The wiring harness is long enough so the lights will bolt to the 2 existing holes in the top outermost corners of the chute. I will need to extend the harness up to the control panel where the battery will be located with it's integral on/off switch and fuse holder. I'm not going with the puddle lights but could if the need arises.
 
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