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Since my search for the right parts and after seeing the power tool battery adapters, I have seen a ton of them on the net for every brand and offbrand of battery. That will be my back up plan.

Need to get my light bar finally set up. We're getting more snow than we have in a while and I'll be needing it at night. If things stop falling off of it.
 

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Craftsman 536.881851
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Just finished up this project so here are some photos on my 2005 Craftsman 27" blower (536.881851). I got some bar shaped neodymium magnets and used Devcon to glue them to the aluminum housing LED light bars so I could mount them to the top of the bucket.
What lights did you use? I have the same blower. It looks great!
 

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Hello
I'm new to this forum.

I've read quite a bit of this forum and I've decided to add some LED light to the old girl.

My snowblowe is a Canadian Tire Yard Works with a 10.5 hp tecumseh engine.

I'm planning to add two of these lights: View attachment 203346 View attachment 203347


Using this setup: View attachment 203348


Here are some pics of my machine: View attachment 203349 View attachment 203350 View attachment 203351 View attachment 203352

One quick question. Any way to replace that bulp with a LED??
Any advice or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance.
Hi Clau,
Thank you for the drawing. I understand this is the way to do it and I have all of the parts. What about the line to ground from the switch? You have a question mark there. Did you run this ground wire on no?
Thank you in advance.
 

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I wired in bridge rectifier and two capacitors as indicated on here but I have pulsing/flickering at anything other than wide open throttle. I checked voltages and I only have 10.6vac coming off the stator at wot and as soon as I turn down throttle at all the flickering increases. I confirmed that I have dc voltage at the led light but it’s only 10.3vdc at WOT. Snowblower is a 2014 Ariens deluxe 30. Voltage coming from stator seems low to me. Anyone else ever run into this?
 

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I have pulsing/flickering at anything other than wide open throttle. I checked voltages and I only have 10.6vac coming off the stator at wot and as soon as I turn down throttle at all the flickering increases.
As always, check that connections are all in good shape, BUT just sounds like your lights are overloading your stator.......Think your stator is a 60W, what type light you running?
 

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So the 10.6VAC sounds about right @ stator's output, might be a touch low esp if you unplugged it as Ariens says my 60W EFI's stator shuold be 11.5VAC - 14VAC @ WOT.........You MIGHT have a stator winding loop or two shorted, not sure......What type meter are you using? A lower end meter might give an error of 1V or 2V, depends esp on a raw noisy ole stator measurement.

HOWEVER, after the rectifier and caps(it cleaner for measuring) it becomes around *(10.6VAC*1.414 = 15VDC) unloaded, including diode drops(15V -0.6*2 = 13.8VDC).........Loaded(lights on) measuring 10VDC sounds about right, the lights are probably 40W, 50W, 60W?


*10.6VAC is a "RMS" voltage reading we get from our meters on the standard AC setting, which when rectified and filter it becomes mostly a "peak" value and then more or less stays(when unloaded and filtered) around this peak level for the DC value........ To convert from RMS to peak, the RMS value is multiplied by 1.414.

**Our house AC voltage of 120VAC is also in RMS, but it's peak reading is 120*1.414 = 170Vp
 

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Thanks for the reply! I have a set of heated grips and one 36w led light that I added. I also replaced the stock halogen bulb with a 8.5w led replacement bulb. The led replacement bulb and auxiliary light I added are both connected to the DC side of the circuit. The I left the heated grips connected to AC. The led replacement bulb pulses/flickers worse than the auxiliary led. I’ll try to take some more readings tomorrow. Does everyone else’s led lights work at less than wot? My buddy added an led light to his yard king and he says his led works great even at idle???
 

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A 36W along with your 8.5W, those should both run nicely at WOT, esp if the grips were off off.

You mentioned 10.3VDC up in #1545, with just the 36W and the 8.5W on, that sounds too low @ WOT, thinking your stator has some shorted windings if it in fact it is a 60W type, which I think it is suppose to be.

At idle, with both on could be pushing it though, I'd guess the stator will put out around half or 30W at idle and that 60W rating is probably somewhere near WOT
 

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I wired in bridge rectifier and two capacitors as indicated on here but I have pulsing/flickering at anything other than wide open throttle. I checked voltages and I only have 10.6vac coming off the stator at wot and as soon as I turn down throttle at all the flickering increases. I confirmed that I have dc voltage at the led light but it’s only 10.3vdc at WOT. Snowblower is a 2014 Ariens deluxe 30. Voltage coming from stator seems low to me. Anyone else ever run into this?
I think the problem you're having isn't voltage, it's frequency. At maximum engine speed of 3850 rpm, the alternator is being run at 3850 rpm ÷ 60 seconds/minute = 64 Hz. But at idle the engine is only rurning at 2150 rpm, or 2150 ÷ 60 = 36 Hz.

Full wave still has a ripple component even with caps and maybe your LEDs are really sensitive. What size caps are you using? Maybe higher mf or a choke.
 

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At maximum engine speed of 3850 rpm, the alternator is being run at 3850 rpm ÷ 60 seconds/minute = 64 Hz. But at idle the engine is only running at 2150 rpm, or 2150 ÷ 60 = 36 Hz.
The alt's output freq is dependent on speed and also the number of poles the alternator(magneto) has of course and you're spot on with your calc's, BUT only if there's one(1) pole!.....USUALLY, however, alt's typically have multiple poles and I'm not sure what OP has, but *my Ariens LCT EFI 369cc alt. has 5 poles for example, so my alt's freq @ 3850RPM is........

3850RPM (R/M) = 3850/60sec = 64 Rev's Per Sec (R/S)

5 pole alternator gives 5 Pulses/Rev = 5 P/R (seen below)

5 P/R * 64 R/S = 321 P/S (R's cancel) Pulses Per Sec = 321 Cycles Per Second (C/S) = 321Hz

Again, not sure what OP's alt is, but it's probably more than 1 pole and most likely similar to mine since he has a 2014 Ariens deluxe 30".......

And so for me and probably OP's, @ 3850RPM = 321Hz and @ 2150RPM = 179Hz


Computer Font Personal computer Audio equipment Display device

*Scope on my engine's alt output @ some arbitrary start up idle speed I was set at and that I had measured where as seen.... t ~= 6ms and since 1/t = f, 1/(6ms) = 166.67Hz

Then as a sanity(mostly, but not always) check, converting this real measure freq of 166.67Hz back to real RPM's........(166.67/5)*60 = 2000RPM.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Trace #1 = Alt Output
Trace #2 = Spark Plug Pulse


@Butch1581

Note that the "peak" reading from the scope image above is about 20Vp which is around 14V RMS(typical DMM AC reading) as discussed in #1548 above.

This reading of 14V was taken running only @ around 2000RPM as measure with the scope, the alt. was mostly unloaded if I recall right.........You've measured "I only have 10.6vac coming off the stator at wot"?

If this was unloaded'ish, think it's a pretty safe bet to just neglect the DC side of things at whatever rate for now and simply say your AC just seems a bit too low for a properly operating stator's output and I'm pretty sure you have the same'ish 60W stator as I.

Car Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive lighting

I just like this pic of my TB, so I put it here for no particular reason at all............Perhaps I'll just shall store it here.
 

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Just finished up this project so here are some photos on my 2005 Craftsman 27" blower (536.881851). I got some bar shaped neodymium magnets and used Devcon to glue them to the aluminum housing LED light bars so I could mount them to the top of the bucket.
What lights did you use? Also, any specs for the magnets? I have the same machine. Any issues with the lights moving around?
 
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