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By chance were you using the toggle switch when the lights started popping?

The no-load peak voltage can get quite high... unless you're going into a regulator, you're better off eliminating the toggle on these systems.
 

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Thanks for the input guys, it seems like the LEDs do not like anything more than 12V. I ripped the nice wire loom and heat shrink to see if there was an issue with my wiring but everything looks good. On the work bench they are fine when supplied with a 12V constant, on the blower they are fine when the machine is at idle, its only when I apply WOT is when the LEDs start burning out. Is there a small 12V voltage regulator that can be installed to make sure the lights dont get any more than 12V power supply?

It seems like the coil can produce as much as 20V at peak, checking out the video below posted by another forum member.

 

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So, I blew two LEDs from a batch of dozen or so that I got in this order, really bummed me out as I like the output from these particular LEDs, they are 48W which is 2W shy of the factory 50W output from the coils, the color is nice and white rather than the bluish hue that you get from most ebay LEDs.

Today I gutted the set up, changed the bridge rectifier, changed the rocker switch, changed the LED to one from a different batch, the other ones are rated to be 48W as well, that set up yielded the same result, the LEDs got blown right away. Hooked up the multimeter and the output was erratic it was bouncing all over the place from 2V to 18V and was not steady at all. I installed the OE halogen light on the unit and that one wouldnt work either, so currently I am in the process of swapping the OE coils with a spare pair I have, that SHOULD solve the issue as the old coils were most likely bad.

Updates to come.
 

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Good info.Thx
 

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Is there a small 12V voltage regulator that can be installed to make sure the lights don't get any more than 12V power supply?
I use a lot of small DC-DC step down modules. They are small, cheap and very efficient. You can usually set the output to what you want. You could set it to 12 to14 volts if your LEDs will tolerate and leave it. Here's an example. I'm not saying to buy this particular one, but you can find the one that best suits your need.

 

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Bought my lights at Harbor Freight then did the mod by following Donyboy 73 on youtube. I put two lights on my Ariens and so far so good. Gotta love that Donyboy. I used a small hobby box under the dash for rectifier and capacitors hiding the wiring and it came out great, very neat and clean looking.
 

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Looking to install a led light bar on my 28in craftsman snowblower. It has an ac (black cord) and a dc (red wire) coming out. On the multimeter it was showing 14 volts on the dc very regularly. I ordered a 12in led light bat that's was rated for 9 to 30 v dc. It is 72watt light. I have power to my toggle switch but the light wont turn on at all. Did I get a light with to many watts? Attached is the picture of the light. Any ideas on how to get this to work?
 

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Believe you will need to use a bridge rectifier to get the AC to convert to negative DC. Unless you already did that.

Got a picture or two on your setup and wiring? Or a wiring diagram if you drew one of those?


Welcome to the forum!
 

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Believe you will need to use a bridge rectifier to get the AC to convert to negative DC. Unless you already did that.

Got a picture or two on your setup and wiring? Or a wiring diagram if you drew one of those?

I attached a picture of what I have. I got the light working fine today, and even ran it 3 to 4 different times. The last time I ran it about 5 to 10 minutes then shut off the light and turned it back on and it wont work now. My wire going to the light is showing 11 volts dc, but where the wire connects to the light only about 1 volt. Not sure if i fried the light or the light went bad. Wondering for ideas on what it could be and if I need to add anything to the circuit.
 

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Do you know the output of the generator? Some after only 18 Watts or so. When you find this out, subtract the power consumption of anything else you may have (heated hand grips, electric chute, etc). Don't go over that amount when you order a light. The output is rated at full throttle, so idle will reduce it.
 

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No way the generator will power a 72W light bar. Did you plan on jacking deer or something? If 20 Watts of LED lighting doesn't light your driveway enough in front of you, you may need cataract surgery.

To check your generator to see if you need a bridge rectifier take a multimeter if you have one and measure the DC output then switch your meter to AC and measure the AC component. If you have 12 volts of AC riding on the DC you may need a bridge and a capacitor.
 

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Still working on it here. Worked again for about 5 min then shut off. I have to connect the light to my car battery everytime it stops stops working. Once I plug it back into the snowblower for a bit it works then shuts off. Check the multimeter again and I am getting ac and dc to register. How can you tell if it I'd ac or dc? Guessing I may need a bridge rectifier. Any good ones you know of?
Thanks for all the help.
 

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Yeah that will never work. That generator is half bridge rectified ( single diode ), You will need a full bridge rectifier to get that AC component out.

Pure AC



Half bridge... half AC half DC which is about what you are getting as a reading.



Full bridge ( 4 diodes )



Full bridge whit capacitor



Bigger capacitor




A KBPC1510 is over kill but it has a hole so you can mount it and 4 blade so you can connect with lugs.

167437
 
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