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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Depending on how dirty the carb is, the strength of your ultrasonic cleaner, the features such as an alternating frequency wave, the medium used, heater, the immersion and running time will vary.

I've tried various cleaning solutions including several detergents, soaps, degreasers, and several carburetor specific solutions. Many of these will get the outside of the carb clean giving you the false impression the solution has eaten away the varnish that is inside the passage ways.

I've used blue and green Simple Green at 50/50 strengths, Dawn, Purple Power, lacquer thinner, several carburetor specific solutions. The best my far, hands down, I've found is Berrymans Chem-Dip Carburetor and Parts Cleaner. Prior to my buying the ultrasonic cleaner, SharperTek with a heater, I had great success with just overnight dunking.

I prefer soaking the carb for a bit in the solution in the ultrasonic cleaner prior to turning it on. Then when running, I always rotate the carb. I do this at least twice and preferably 3 or 4 times when I'm able to. I rotate the carb 90° and I try to flip it and turn it. If I plan to run the ultrasonic for 20 minutes, I'll break it down in (4) 5 minute increments. It seems the ultrasonic waves come from one direction, across, that's why I rotate the carb.
 
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I just spend the 14.00 for a new one ... :)


I should get a cleaner unit though, as I have a few old ones on the shelf ... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I clean greasy or dirty nuts and bolts in my mine using laundry detergent.
 

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The ultrasonic cleaners from Micromark are very good for small parts. The two most economical models are the iSonic personal mini ultrasonic cleaner for 59.95 plus tax and shipping and the iSonic digital ultrasonic cleaner for $149.95.
They also carry EuroSonic concentrated cleaning solution in the 1/2 pint bottle for $8.95 and $16.95 for the quart bottle.

For what it is worth I have used hydrogen peroxide to clean parts by letting them soak overnight.

Another option would be to use cider or red wine vinegar in an overnight soak or in the ultrasonic cleaner.
 

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Wow way back in Dec. here goes, yes, I have caution simple green will eat aluminum put a shiny Alu. it will come out dull, can see the bubbles coming from the pours. Have had good and not so good sucess. If you don't take the covers off some passages, they could still have dirt in them. If you don't use a gasket replacement kit it might not work either. dried on dirt takes longer to clean. Use mine often. I like the idea someone put up using a small container to save on soaps. Just remember to put water into the rest of the cleaner or you heater will blow and maybe the ultrasonic part as well. The more watts the better the clean the more they cost.
 

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In the ultrasonic, the cleaning is done by micro-bubbles (kind of a misnomer, since they are vacuum pockets) that are formed in the cleaning solution. Rather than looking for a solvent or emulsifier to do your heavy lifting, consider that you really need just enough emulsification to keep the oil/grease/varnish/crud from re-depositing. A tiny bit of Dawn will do that adequately, with no risk of damaging the aluminum castings. Let the machine to the work.

FWIW, I hesitate to use any "purple" degreaser on aluminum. Virtually all seem to be caustic to some extent, and form that dark hydroxide corrosion layer on aluminum bits with extended exposure. If there's any doubt, use a common test strip to make sure the pH isn't too high. Anything higher than maybe 9.5 is a red flag. As always, Read The Label for warnings, and maybe try it first on something sacrificial.
 
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