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Discussion Starter #1
1) what is the size and thread used on the Ariens 28 Deluxe 306cc TLC Engine at the drain pipe?
2) suggestions for adding a Petcock/valve on the drain pipe?
 

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JSUP did you make that or can you buy that??


Sweet!

I made it. I don't like the quality of what's out there "pre made". Cost me about $18 with parts from Home Despot. I kept the cap at the end, just in case the ball valve gets hit and opens on accident.


I've done similar on some friends machines.
 

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here is a good one for tecumseh or briggs....both have 3/8 I believe???


Although my tube seems to measure .562 in OD before threads.


Anyone know Drain Hole thread measurement for Tecumseh???
 

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I made it. I don't like the quality of what's out there "pre made". Cost me about $18 with parts from Home Despot. I kept the cap at the end, just in case the ball valve gets hit and opens on accident.


I've done similar on some friends machines.

That must make it so easy!!! Like the solidness of it.

Glad you kept the cap... that was my thought if some how valve opened accidentally what could stop it.....Ahhhh Cap.
 

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Drainzits work great! Just did the oil change on my HSS1332ATD with one and didn't spill a drop!

I would like to do what JSUP did to his but I think with location of Drain tube....I think Drainz it is the call. Hopefully will not have to remove tire any more. Although I just use green lawn mower tube for oil changes on my Tec and it makes it past tire now but doesn't secure well though.
 

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here is a good one for tecumseh or briggs....both have 3/8 I believe???
Although my tube seems to measure .562 in OD before threads.
Anyone know Drain Hole thread measurement for Tecumseh???
It appears that the older Tecumseh drains were 1/4-18 thread, but the newer ones are likely M10?
 

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I would like to do what JSUP did to his but I think with location of Drain tube....I think Drainz it is the call. Hopefully will not have to remove tire any more. Although I just use green lawn mower tube for oil changes on my Tec and it makes it past tire now but doesn't secure well though.

Here's one I did for a friend, its on a Toro from the side . The thing is to do a 90 right off the oil pan.
 

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here is a good one for tecumseh or briggs....both have 3/8 I believe???

Although my tube seems to measure .562 in OD before threads.

Anyone know Drain Hole thread measurement for Tecumseh???
At 0.562", that sounds like it may be 1/4 NPT (0.540" outside diameter), depending on where exactly you're measuring. 3/8 NPT would be much larger:
https://www.engineersedge.com/hardware/taper-pipe-threads.htm

The Drainzit seems cool. For some reason I thought they were more expensive.

jsup, I like your setup. I wish I'd thought to put a 90-degree down-elbow on my machine :) I just did an extension tube with a cap. Good call keeping the cap on it, too much risk (IMO) of something bumping the valve.

Though with the cap, it seems like the valve becomes slightly redundant? You still need tools to change the oil, for instance. If you wanted to save some money on hardware, it seems like you could skip the valve, and stay with just the extension, elbow, and cap? I'm not trying to criticize, I like it, you just got me thinking.
 

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Someone above suggested new techumseh is m10
If you don’t have a thread gage drain oil then lean machine over with gas off and take drain plug to hardware store to determine size

Here is drainzit from Hd



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I made it. I don't like the quality of what's out there "pre made". Cost me about $18 with parts from Home Despot. I kept the cap at the end, just in case the ball valve gets hit and opens on accident.
Nice job on the valve setup! And while I'm a serious fan of changing the oil on engines, I have to ask: If you're still using the cap on the end anyway, what is the advantage of the valve? (Don't get me wrong, I'd keep the cap on there too if only to keep the insides of the assembly clean... but if you have to fiddle with the cap anyway then the valve seems redundant.)
 

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I gotta say, these intrigue me. I never thought of plumbing fittings with a valve.

I have old Tecumseh's, with the drain pipe and cap coming off the right side. All I did was buy some clear vinyl gas tubing whose ID matched the OD of the pipe. The other end is a 32 oz plastic paint mixing cup (so I can measure how much oil was used/left and can view the oil for gas/water etc) with a couple holes punched for a zip tie on it with a good 12 or so inch piece of tubing zipped to it.

I put another zip tie on the open end of the tube ready to pull tight. Then I remove the pipe cap and shove the open end of the tube on, and zip tie it to the pipe to seal (a shop paper towel under the pipe for spillage), then tilt the machine on it's left wheel with a small length 4x6 block of wood.

Half hour later it's drained dry. And I can use it on the other machine as well. When drained, pour into my vehicle oil change catcher overnight for future recycling, paper towel the mixing cup to clean, ready for the next change.

$2 oil change rig for two machines.
 

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Heavy duty aluminum foil can be molded into a trough and into oil pan. I do this when changing Harley oil filters and car filters


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Nice job on the valve setup! And while I'm a serious fan of changing the oil on engines, I have to ask: If you're still using the cap on the end anyway, what is the advantage of the valve? (Don't get me wrong, I'd keep the cap on there too if only to keep the insides of the assembly clean... but if you have to fiddle with the cap anyway then the valve seems redundant.)

The reason for the cap is just in case the valve fails, gets hit and moves. Simply a safety precaution. Since it is 90 degrees to the other pipe, it comes off cleanly, and easily. Just take the cap off first, then turn the falve. There's no "fiddling" with it in terms of oil coming out while you're trying to remove the cap.


Oh, and on my old machine some oil eventually started getting by the ball valve. I was too lazy to change it and the cap just kept most of it in. It was very little, but a leak none the less.
 
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