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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I have the impeller mod material on a shelf, but I really never saw a need to perform the mod on any machine I have ... I will see how this one performs this winter and make a decision then ... I am really impressed on the over all build and design of this unit, even if it is not as beefy as the older vintage machines I have.

A lot of similarities with my 10HP Yard Machines ..... But this Cub Cadet is a much newer unit, with all the newer features.
 

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i guess at least you bought the clean out tool since your going to need it on the wet stuff. these thing really do need the impeller mod with how large the gap is.
 

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The CC cleaned up very nice and should serve you well. If it meets your expectations this winter , great, if not you can sell it for a good profit.

crazzy is right, the impeller kit will improve the throwing distance and reduce wet snow clogging on these MTD machines. The impeller gap is much larger on these machines than the older ones you have in your stable. The Ariens machines from the 60's and early 70's usually have a very small gap just over 1/8" and don't really benefit that much from a impeller mod IMHO.

When I bought my current home, it came with an 8 or 9 year old 24" MTD snow blower. The previous owner had been using a plow service for the previous few winters, so the MTD needed some carb cleaning and love to get it running. One of the steering triggers was broken and the chute and joystick control needed some plastic repair and parts (MTD has great customer service and replacement parts are fairly priced). I did the impeller mod and it improved the performance quite a bit. Machine ran well, the auger rakes would bend from big ice chunks in the EOD pile sometimes, but you can bend them back with your hands, chute control cables would freeze up sometimes.

I have a long U shaped driveway and we can get a lot of snow, so I sold the MTD ($450.00) and got the Deluxe 28 SHO, towards the end of the first winter.

mtd 1.jpg
mtd 3.jpg


mtd 4.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Yeah, when I was working on it, I did notice the wider than usual impeller to frame gap .... maybe I will revisit installing the impeller extensions on this unit this summer. The machine separates quite easily if need be, and I do have all the material to do it.

It is one sharp looking machine, it runs strong and smooth and I am impressed with all the features, although , as with any unit, it will require keeping on top of maintenance with all the fancy levers, pulleys, cables, etc..... thats where the simplicity and construction of the older units shine, like my Ariens 10000 series, my Yardman 7100 and my new to me Toro 724 ... all these are built like a tank, heavy gauge metal, rods instead of cables, etc.... albiet without some of the current safety features.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Well, I took another look at the impeller gap, and decided to mod the impeller, so when I was running errands, I swung into Home Depot and picked up some stainless steel hardware ... boy, that stuff is not cheap ... LOL :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Here it is , I had posted it in Mod Materials thread, sry, should have put it here as well.

I used what is known as a rail pad, as I used to work for Amtrak. These sit directly under the rail, over the concrete ties. Extremly durable, firm, yet flexible, 1/4 inch thick. I used stainless hardware. I even notched out where the heads of the carraige bolts for the chute exit cover go on the inside of the housing as well as the fin welds on the back plate ... :) . Works like a dream. Bring on the snow .... :) .... going to be in a heat wave next week ... steady 90's to 100 degrees.

If I did not have these pads, I would have used reinforced mud flaps or belting.

179124

179125
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Just an FYI ....

These pads are designed to control rail seat abrasion on concrete ties. The components are manufactured from high-quality engineered polymers. The rail sits on these pads and then the rail is locked in with metal clips. They take all kinds of abuse, and extreme cold and hot climates, and last for many, many years.

179126
 

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Carb came in today ... Maybe get it back together tomorrow .... 😊
@Oneacer , did you have to drill those holes for those long skids? Did they come with spacers or did you have to figure out your own? I have some of these and want to install on a Honda 1132 but want to do it right. There are no holes in some buckets.

I liked the color combo for the Cub that I stole it for a Honda HS928. Powder-Coated yellow. I probably posted this before but love this machine. Notice the extension for the chuter control handle.
20191019_153913_resized (1).jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Yeah, so on the Cub Cadet (MTD product), there were already 3 holes on the side of bucket, which includes the bolt for the cutting edge. With all the elongated slots on the poly skids, I just used the front and rear bolt holes on the bucket , and it lined up perfect.

These skids are a great quality, reversible, and only 16.00 a pair, free shipping. These longer skids also add stability to the bucket as well. I ordered another set for my 10HP Yard Machines (made by MTD also).

I did re-use my hardware, as none comes with it. But I have all kinds of carriage bolts, washers, etc....

If that Honda was mine, I would probably be drilling the bucket, using hex (Allen) cap screws (actually bolts, similar to a carriage bolt, but with an Allen wrench hole in the cap.), or just a serrated washer under a regular carriage bolt. I would probably use the rear bolt there for the rear slot and drill one hole for a forward slot on the skids.
 

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Looks absolutely great I didn’t see a spec of rust and for 80 bucks you can flip it in the fall for a nice return. Mice are an issue for me I have a stand by house generator and in 2 years snapped over 200 mice inside it. Weatherman said this weekend we have 90 degree plus weather on the way so I test fired the central AC and got a no go on the first floor condenser. I opened the cover and a big mouse nest. I clean and cover both units in October but with the mouse population so high it’s difficult to control them they had a HUGE nest in the unit. Recently I purchased a night vision motion activated camera w tripod to to see how they were getting in the generator and fixed it with foam insulation been working so far. In Maine I actually use the generator more than the AC so infestation is a real problem. They actually chewed the wires to the 440 volt condenser and that ended their stay in the AC.
The good both my snowblowers reside in a heated vermin free environment. One less thing to pull a mouse nest and poo from .
In two hours I had both units with chewed wires rewired up and running.
No love for mice here.😂
 

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Here it is , I had posted it in Mod Materials thread, sry, should have put it here as well.

I used what is known as a rail pad, as I used to work for Amtrak. These sit directly under the rail, over the concrete ties. Extremly durable, firm, yet flexible, 1/4 inch thick. I used stainless hardware. I even notched out where the heads of the carraige bolts for the chute exit cover go on the inside of the housing as well as the fin welds on the back plate ... :) . Works like a dream. Bring on the snow .... :) .... going to be in a heat wave next week ... steady 90's to 100 degrees.

If I did not have these pads, I would have used reinforced mud flaps or belting.
That is certainly different. Thanks for the photos.
 

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No love for mice here.
Or here... I whack about 50 a year, about half in snap traps and half in these walk-the-plank buckets. I gave a dozen of them to friends a year ago for Christmas.
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