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I was looking for an a cheap Ariens 10m dog catcher series, that are becoming harder to find. Then I found this 10000. I usually don't even pick up blowers that look as neglected as this one but said what the heck for 30 bucks. Engine not running, one skid shoe bottom non existent, diff lock rusted frozen, chute crank bent,oil all over the place, electric tape on coil wire, but I need a project. I Figured this this thing is so ugly maybe ill never sell it and be blowerless again. I'm thinking of building a sleeper. It does have a new belt as of last year. These are some of my favorite machines to operate do to the ease of use. As for the sleeper part I want it to look OE and old but perform like a beast. No predator swap or extra tall chute, or Carlise xtrac as that will defeat the look. Im thinking, pulley change, clear coat rusty inner chute, maybe a tec or briggs higher hp of this one is long gone, studded or ag tires. Any ideas chime in and wish me luck.
 

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Maybe some tire chains. That is a classic looking snow blower.
 

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I have Parts if You are Looking in Ma. Got Engines, Chute Upgrades, anything You might Need or Want.
 

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Heh, I've never heard of a sleeper snowblower :) It'll roll up to the EOD next to a smug (insert brand here), then send a rooster tail of snow 60 feet.

If a Predator is out, then sure, a higher-hp acceptable engine, larger impeller-drive pulley on the engine, impeller kit, slippery chute, and added traction. Maybe cut the front of the bucket back, if you wanted, to expose the augers for better snow chewing.

Admittedly, to me, a sleeper blower isn't a thing. I'd want it to just kick ass, I don't care if you can tell from a glance that it's not stock. The proof is in the performance, not in disguising the performance.
 

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Are you sure the engine is shot? Yeah there's a lot of oil there but it's had ~50 years to accumulate.

If the engine is a decent HP rating (I'd say 6 or higher) you might consider rebuilding it. Just my opinion but it would be cool to keep the period engine appearance. Of course get the carb heater box... you don't want the linkages rusting. Or get a similar engine in better shape from someone here or C'list.

The other stuff sounds pretty easily fixable... those machines are pretty basic and parts are still readily available.

Oh and personally I wouldn't change the engine pulley unless it's got plenty of HP, like 8 or more. Otherwise you're going to risk it stalling in heavy snow. Also on those machines the engine pulley determines both the auger/impeller and wheel speed so it might end up going annoyingly fast.
 

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Impeller mod, valve job, new head gasket, refresh the ignition and carb ...that stock engine may surprise you!

I have an H50 on my 910 and it has exceeded my expectations by a mile. ...albeit my expectations were pretty low to begin with :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got alot done in a few hours. She is running. Carb cleaned, valves were slightly out of spec, oil changed, repacked impeller bearing, added impeller kit, clear coat on the chute, painted inner impeller housing some funky orange color I had on hand, added some used shoes I found laying in a pile, cleaned up ignition system, greased augers, and gearbox, got the diff lock working smoothly. Thing starts on half pull. Feels nice and strong too. Put it through an 8 inch dense already blown rain soaked slush pile and the little Tec just sang along. I forgot how much the H series carbs were more of a pain than the HMSK.
 

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I was looking for an a cheap Ariens 10m dog catcher series, that are becoming harder to find. Then I found this 10000. I usually don't even pick up blowers that look as neglected as this one but said what the heck for 30 bucks. Engine not running, one skid shoe bottom non existent, diff lock rusted frozen, chute crank bent,oil all over the place, electric tape on coil wire, but I need a project. I Figured this this thing is so ugly maybe ill never sell it and be blowerless again. I'm thinking of building a sleeper. It does have a new belt as of last year. These are some of my favorite machines to operate do to the ease of use. As for the sleeper part I want it to look OE and old but perform like a beast. No predator swap or extra tall chute, or Carlise xtrac as that will defeat the look. Im thinking, pulley change, clear coat rusty inner chute, maybe a tec or briggs higher hp of this one is long gone, studded or ag tires. Any ideas chime in and wish me luck.
In motorcycle lingo that would termed a "rat bike", so you want to build a rat blower. Me, I like new paint, tires etc.
 

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...and wish me luck.
Restoring, or just bringing back to life one of these older blowers is the coolest thing you can do on the planet if you ask me. Good going!

You are motivating those of us who admire you guys who do it, to do it too. Thanks to all who share info on how to keep these great pieces of iron going!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I like shiny paint and tires as well. I've done a few restorations and resto mods and just trying something a little different than what I normally do. As of right now Im trying to figure out where the oil is leaking from. I think it's from the breather tube since it's saturated in that area. Ill clean her up one more time and keep a closer eye on it. Was going to pick up some parts from jack for the motor bit I have to reconsider for know until I get this leak taken care of. Also haven't made my mind up on AG tires or chains. Although I did see some Hot Hobby Knife on Amazon and might rework the tread on the stock tires. Got about 5 coats of clear on the chute. Looks rusty bit is smooth as a baby bottom. Also Here is the linkages pic.
 

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I like shiny paint and tires as well. I've done a few restorations and resto mods and just trying something a little different than what I normally do. As of right now Im trying to figure out where the oil is leaking from. I think it's from the breather tube since it's saturated in that area. Ill clean her up one more time and keep a closer eye on it. Was going to pick up some parts from jack for the motor bit I have to reconsider for know until I get this leak taken care of. Also haven't made my mind up on AG tires or chains. Although I did see some Hot Hobby Knife on Amazon and might rework the tread on the stock tires. Got about 5 coats of clear on the chute. Looks rusty bit is smooth as a baby bottom. Also Here is the linkages pic.
the machine looks awesome!

you may have put the breather in upside-down when you checked the valve lash. You have to make sure the little drain-hole is installed "down".
 

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I like shiny paint and tires as well. I've done a few restorations and resto mods and just trying something a little different than what I normally do. As of right now Im trying to figure out where the oil is leaking from. I think it's from the breather tube since it's saturated in that area. Ill clean her up one more time and keep a closer eye on it. Was going to pick up some parts from jack for the motor bit I have to reconsider for know until I get this leak taken care of. Also haven't made my mind up on AG tires or chains. Although I did see some Hot Hobby Knife on Amazon and might rework the tread on the stock tires. Got about 5 coats of clear on the chute. Looks rusty bit is smooth as a baby bottom. Also Here is the linkages pic.
If that Engine Doesn't work Out, I have Plenty of "White" Ariens Engines Here. LMK if You Need One.
 

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Also Here is the linkages pic.
The linkage looks right to me in general. The wildcard is whether the link from the governor arm to the throttle is in the right hole, and it doesn't seem like there's a photo or diagram around anywhere that shows that clearly.

But... how does it run? Can you reach idle and full speed using the speed control lever? Can you easily move the throttle from closed to open by hand without it binding? Does the engine surge?

If you answered "yes" to the first two questions and the engine doesn't surge or surges very little, you're probably okay.
 
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