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might have caught it even in the dark. it was one of those things stuck out pretty immediately just because of how it all of a sudden just started spraying up and out the side of the engine.
 

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I just can't buy stuff from Home Depot. Bought a combination door 20 years ago and nothing since. Great door though or I should say the manufacturer is. When I needed a part Home Depot gave me an email to write to.
same here with rigid tool problem
 

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tryin to get my 99 subie ready for smog. had an exhaust leak at 2 bolt connection cause gasket was bad. installed new gasket but the connection was too far apart so removed whole back part . lucky i did cause found this crack at pipe/muffler. hopefully can weld up.
 

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nearly 300 bucks.gonna get a new microwave. our old costco one actually lasted about 10 years or more which must be a record.

My parents still had most of their stuff from the 50's that were still working.
We had a Kenmore (SEARS brand) microwave that lasted from 1996 (when my wife bought it) until 2020. Bought a Danby brand one to replace it, it didn't last 3 months, ended getting a Panasonic from Costco to replace it. Fridge is about 17 years old and washer and dryer are 15.

I just can't buy stuff from Home Depot. Bought a combination door 20 years ago and nothing since. Great door though or I should say the manufacturer is. When I needed a part Home Depot gave me an email to write to.
I typically go to Home Hardware or Kent, keep my money in Canada
 

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around here the only thing we have been force to replace was the washing machine. so far the new one has been working pretty good for 6 years now. everything else has just been optional upgrades like the double door fridge with freezer on the bottom and glass top stove. they are nothing fancy but they are somewhat nicer. i don't think i would ever want to go back to having the freezer on top. it is definitely a lot more convenient.i think the dryer may need to be serviced soon but it is still working. i think it just needs a temp sensor or something since you sometimes have to toss it on a second time to get things fully dry but i think me fixing the dryer vent lines helped it some.

mess with my suv today. pretty sure the issue is in the computer. swapped out the coil driver transistor and it now fires without any of my ******* repair. i just didn't have a new capacitor. it still isn't running 100% but was running good enough to take it or a trip around the block. was considering hitting up the gas station till i checked the price of gas. i guess they must have raised the price of gas a bit to try and force people to stay home lol. i think it went up about $0.10/L since last time i was out. i guess it would only be about a $10-12 difference if i was to fill up my tank but i really don't need it right now since i got the honda.
 

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with our new stimulus checks coming soon .......

new microwave
more dvd movies
new windshield on 2007 toyota rav4
new garage door opener after old one went out after 32 years.
stock on from Costco on most used food items, canned goods , etc
maybe a used wood splitter
we have 6 grown children . 5 are doing pretty well but one is struggling so going to give him and his wife an extra stimulus check. he has a hard time accepting help so we just say it's not for him, it's for the grandchildren.
 

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cant stop watching the news as history unfolds....

but will do some housework and make pizza
 

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Got a little snow this morning, maybe 2" of very wet, sloppy stuff. It was overkill to throw it out, but I detest hand shoveling snow and wanted to give Juneau a test run. I also didn't want it to freeze creating a driveway skating rink. So I fired it up and blew it out to test the new belt and the new governor setting. I then deliberately blew snow over to one spot to give the blower a decent 5-6" of wet cement to chew on.

The governor worked pretty much perfect, and the blower only clogged up once. When it had a decent amount to throw, it threw it roughly 20 or so feet - so when I get a typical Iowa 6" storm of reasonably fluffy snow, it should throw perfect for my needs. I sure wish I could squeeze out maybe 200 more RPM's, but with the below upgrade I think I won't truly need to.

This weekend will be a 3 day weekend, so I will definitely dig into making 3 sets of impeller mod pieces. Luckily I saved the broken gearcase/rake assembly from Frank from a couple years ago, so I can do all my measurements and shaping indoors to where all I'll have to do is remove the chutes, drill, and bolt them in.
 
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I started tuning up the oil forced air furnace in the garage. Complete clean and tune should have taken around 2 hours. It only took about 10 hours. Come to find out, the fuel pump shaft came un-coupled from the pump internally (about 1/16" total travel of shaft). Never came across that exact problem in over 40 years of furnace and boiler repair.
 

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finished re-assembling the 8hp Tecumseh i was working on in the basement. took it outside and seems to run like it should. also got to fire up the 10hp i have sitting around. it actually ran ok. might try cleaning up the carb and then list it for sale. got too much stuff just sitting around taking up space. did at least get to clean up my work area and work bench a bit since there is 1 less engine taking up space down there. still got a dual shaft engine sitting down there but it needs a new connecting rod so it may not be worth repairing unless i find myself absolutely needing a dual shaft engine.
 

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So far I just have a 2011 Impala keyFOB repair scheduled for today.


9:45 @tm -3°C ( +27°F )


The Impala guy ended up buying an extra FOB and a key after I repaired his keyFOB. Had the key cut at the local Home Hardware store and also programmed it and the FOB to the car. Asked him for $90 and he gave me $100. He said the dealer wanted $425 for 2 FOBs and a key programmed .
 

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Just repaired a FOB for a 2004 Expedition with 400,000 miles. Body still in good shape too. Also had to reprogram it because the battery had gone dead on it and it lost programming.
 

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A blower housing for the Honda HS622TA I bought a couple weeks ago arrived from Wisconsin by way of Oklahoma to Ohio. USPS. I lifted the HS622 into service position yesterday and come to find out the whole bottom of the blower is rotted out! I didn't know that before I found this housing on EBay, so that was serendipitous. I filled the transmission with 5w-30 synthetic oil and some ATP-AT Re-Seal stop leak. No leaks appear to be coming from the axle seals or anywhere else, only from the housing around the pull starter. I walked it around the block for 45 minutes to let it work. The neighbors must've been amused: The one across the street opened his garage doors at 7AM sharp and started, I kid you not, hammering on stone with a pick and hammer.....
It's leaking harder than ever from the engine. Only a pint of oil came out out the tranny when I drained it, but at least the transmission is verified to be properly lubricated now.
 

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cant stop watching the news as history unfolds....
I especially liked CNN's report about the peaceful demonstration in Texas, then they show video of a bunch of people with guns and pistols strapped to their bodies. Some of which looked like automatic riffles. Peaceful until some idiot pulls the trigger.....Disaster waiting to happen.
 

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1971-72 910962 s/n-03101 att.-910995 s/n-048006 TEC# H70-130067A s/n-1218R
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Roller skids on, fresh synthetic motor oil, fresh synthetic gear oil, lubed throttle cable today. We actually got a inch of snow today. Fired it up and oil started spitting out of breather tube... pulled breather off -cleaned all up-new gaskets. Checked oil level- added to fill line. Fired back up, same issue, read a few threads on here and found the oil cap had no o-ring or “gasket” on it to seal it to the crankcase. Got o-ring and problem solved!
 
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