Castrol: -43.6 F
Pennzoil: -43.6 F
Valvoline: -32.8 F
Quaker State: -27.4 F
As mentioned by others go with your motor's recommendation for weight and type......If you use the engine for long durations you might want to go with Synthetic or you work it hard....lots of snow most of the time.....might wanna go synthetic.
Just don't go to synthetic too soon. I'd wait until maybe 10 hours, if I was going to pick. At least 5? You want to use conventional oil to let the piston rings seat properly. You can change the oil before then, to remove any break-in metal, just use conventional oil.
I back R.O. completely...was just talking oil...forgot yours is new.
Yes if yours is a new engine follow "YOUR MANUAL" break in or what R.O. said above.
Some recommend this.
We consider the ﬁrst 5 hours of run time to be the break-in period for the engine. During the break in
period we recommend using standard automotive
non-synthetic blended oils. After the break in
period synthetic lubricant can be used but is not
required. Adjusting throttle setting will increase/
decrease engine speed helping to seat piston
rings. Avoid bogging or lugging the engine down
and avoid prolonged running at constant RPM.
After the 5 hour break-in period, change the oil.
Using synthetic lubricants does not increase the
recommended oil change interval.
Up to this year, it was regular 5w30 oil. This year I'm running synthetic 5w30.
Since Mobil1 changed their jugs from 4.4L to 4.7L, after changing my car's oil (also uses 5w30) I'm left with a full L of unused oil. Slightly more than I need for the snowblower. I'm not gonna buy a quart specifically for the snowblower anymore.
I like to use ester (group 5) based synthetic oils in any equipment with small, hard working engines. I'm OCD about oil changes and maintenance in general when it comes to my equipment. I probably change the oil too much. But I haven't had an oil related failure in 30 years and I'm not changing anything. On my new Ariens Pro I plan to use Red Line 5w30 with extra ZDDP after the 5 hour break in is complete.
I use Mobil 1 0-40 that I pickup at Walmart. Cant say it's any better or worse than anyone elses choice but I do think if you're pull starting the engine synthetic seems to pull easier at colder temps or with the electric start spins up a bit higher, sooner.
IMHO I think synthetic is overkill for something that gets so few hours on it as I've seen twenty, thirty + year old engines that the oil looks like tar and if it was ever checked they just topped it off and never changed it. Still running.
I believe it's more important to change it when it's needed over exactly which brand or weight you go with. But that's just me.
How often you change it should depend on a number of things. Most machines don't get a lot of hours so yearly isn't really necessary IMHO except for condensation. On the average engine the oil just isn't going to get very dirty. I have a Toro with a Briggs that was stored in an unheated barn for a couple years and pulled it out to use it this year I checked the oil and it looked OK as it should since it hasn't been run. Added gas, fired it up and made sure it was running smoothly and everything was working and then shut it down to change oil. It came out looking like a milky way bar. Wasn't expecting that at all.
BUT .... as others have said it's cheap insurance to change it every year and most people were talking about don't have 5,10 ... blowers sitting around that you'd need to be doing changes on. One machine and < one QT of oil, one oil change, you're done for a year. So if you do it each year, great. If you don't just make sure it looks clean that next year and check it once in a while right after running it to see if it's milky. The condensation will settle out and to the bottom so you can check the level before you fire it up but you might not catch the condensation.
If you're storing it outside under a tarp :facepalm_zpsdj194qh then for sure I'd do it yearly.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who believes in conventional oil during break-in. I won't go so far as to drain it out if the manufacturer pre-filled a vehicle or machine with synthetic; but when I'm making the decision, I believe that dino's one big advantage -- superior metal-carrying capacity -- makes it worth the honor of being the first oil to flow through a new engine.
toro's owners and shop manuals 5w30 full syntech for all temps ,
changing to full syntech only after 5 hours to allow for break in of the rings to the cylinder wall.
(Service Interval: After the first 5 hours—Change the engine
Every 50 hours—Change the engine oil. Change the
engine oil every 25 operating hours when operating
the engine under a heavy load.
If possible, run the engine just before changing the oil because
warm oil flows better and carries more contaminants.
Use automotive detergent oil with an API service classification
of SF, SG, SH, SJ, SL, or higher. Refer to your engine owner's
tractor supply also has a store brand at the same price for 5 qts, really it's Amalie which isn't a bad brand on it's own, personlly i tend to stay with castrol
brass tacks! there are only a few refineries and they make and bottle for many.
here is a link that may help
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