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Yesterday I acquired my second Toro 521. Both are on in years and I'm planning to tear them down and recondition them.Both run and I know my 1st one is a decent and handy tool when the snow flies.
But I'm wondering about the paint. I know there are a myriad of new technologies out there and I'm wondering what the best paint to use would be, particularly the inside of the chute, the impeller and auger.
Leaning towards epoxy based, but is there something better?
 

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I have been wondering the same thing - I have talked to several people that recommend the epoxy paints, but I have heard they are not good if left outside with lots of UV exposure. I have been thinking powder coating, but I know when powder coat gets chipped its hard to repair. I have seen original 1970s ariens that look really good after 50 years - so I wish we knew what the original Ariens paint was
 

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going back that far, it was lead based enamel and baked , many members in here state they use rust-oleum having good results. but it's slow drying one needs to take their time
powder coating is what's used today by the OEM's to stay within the epa rules for pollution while good it has it's draw backs
 

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Yesterday I acquired my second Toro 521. Both are on in years and I'm planning to tear them down and recondition them.Both run and I know my 1st one is a decent and handy tool when the snow flies.
But I'm wondering about the paint. I know there are a myriad of new technologies out there and I'm wondering what the best paint to use would be, particularly the inside of the chute, the impeller and auger.
Leaning towards epoxy based, but is there something better?
If you are spray can based I'd do 2k chassis base followed by self etching primer then the topcoat. If gun based then the epoxy is the way to go
 

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Problem is self etching primer, epoxy primer urethane topcoats, reducers and hardeners for spraying are extremely expensive.

An alternative might be implement paint sold at many auto and farm stores. It can be baked in most cases and allows easy touch up with a brush if needed.
 
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Problem is self etching primer, epoxy primer urethane topcoats, reducers and hardeners for spraying are extremely expensive.

An alternative might be implement paint sold at many auto and farm stores. It can be baked in most cases and allows easy touch up with a brush if needed.
Can based stuff is not that bad as far as prices. Might help us for the OP to give us a budget.
 

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I have been experimenting with the rustoleum 2X 's primer and paint. Puts on a nice thick coat. Then used a 2 stage clear coat .
But just did this so this winter will tell how durable it is. I usually powder coat and that is the best way. (IMO). Very strong.

The blue on is just paint. The yellow one was powder coat 2 years ago and still looks like new. It cost $165 to do the bucket, gas tank and chute.
 

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Whoa! I've been doing the same thing with the rustolem 2x & clear coat. We will have to compare notes.
 

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I believe that metal prep is just as important as paint choice, and media blasting is definitely the way to go if you can justify the cost. Then you can either paint or powder coat. I have only used powder coat (professionally done) or I have spray painted with Rustoleum, both times after media blasting. Both processes have survived well for several years now.

tx
 

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Whoa! I've been doing the same thing with the rustolem 2x & clear coat. We will have to compare notes.
ya. i used Max 2k can of clear coat ($22 a can ) for the gas tank . They recommend 3 coats but I put on 5. It looks and feels nice. I havent spilled any gas on it yet to see how good it is.
With the paint and clear it cost about $30 plus all my time . prep work, etc. I have to prep work anyway before I take the parts to the blaster/powdercoat place anyway so i said "what the heck?"

I'll do the painting myself on the older smaller models and do the powder coat on the big machines like the Honda HS928-1132 where they go for the bigger money anyway.

have done about 12 powder coat jobs. people love them. just like new. they really dont cost anything as it's recovered when i sell. and then some.
 

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the cleaner the metal the better the bond, i'm doing the 28 ford right now, total media blast, the metal has been washed, primed with a adhesion primer, epoxy filler primed ,
it's a chore but even the tiniest dirt can kill a good paint job by making it lift down the line.
 

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Definitely powdercoat. That's what I did when I restored mine last year. Yes it costs a little more but you get what you pay for. (y)

Claude.
 

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Definitely powdercoat. That's what I did when I restored mine last year. Yes it costs a little more but you get what you pay for. (y)

Claude.
just wondering where you guys take things like this to be sand blasted, painted or powder coated?....automotive body shops?
 

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I am from western NY so I almost never go to Auto body shops (they are very busy and charge lots of $). I am rural but my preferences are:
  • Amish/Mennonite shops
  • guys that race cars at the local dirt tracks
  • anyone just starting up a blast shop (3 years ago a local guy was just starting up and begging for work - he offered to do a blast AND powdercoat on my entire snowblower for $75, unfortunately I waited to long and he is now almost triple)
  • often guys that just start advertise on craigslist - so do a search on sand blaster, even a guy selling a big blaster might be willing to do one last project
  • guys that do motorcycle refurbs or tractor refurbs -but you usually need to get on their schedule of when they are doing their own work, same with the racecar guys - so it might be a drop off in may pick up in Sept type thing
  • if you know anyone associated with gas pipes - those companies usually have blast guys and powdercoaters for the pipes - we have a local guy like that but he has been too busy on the pipes this year to do any small side projects.
  • for small parts like engine shrouds and carb warmers you can get your own powder kit and get an old free kitchen oven
 

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For the guys using Rustoleum 2x -- I never did any research but I always assumed 2x was a cheaper version of the original rustoleum enamel - because in my stores it is about $1.50 cheaper per can. Any reason you use the 2x instead of the original ?
tractor supply carries farm and implement paint --but I have heard tractor restore guys complain it looses its gloss in a couple years- anyone here try it yet on blowers ?
 
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