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I could get this Bob-Cat powder coated, but that is expensive and chevy orange is the closest I can get colorwise. I can get 2part DTM paint for $100. a gallon tinted as I want. Tremclad brush or roll-on, which would be limited colors, or spraybombs, also limited colors. I am leaning towards the DTM.
 

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I could get this Bob-Cat powder coated, but that is expensive and chevy orange is the closest I can get colorwise. I can get 2part DTM paint for $100. a gallon tinted as I want. Tremclad brush or roll-on, which would be limited colors, or spraybombs, also limited colors. I am leaning towards the DTM.
You want to spend that much just to paint it?
I would go for the Chevy orange.

For those saying what Bob Cat?
Here, http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/general-snowblower-discussion/17874-bob-cat-resurrection.html

How come you just didn't keep this question with the BOB-CAT resurrection thread?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I was given a ballpark figure of $250 for the chevy orange PC. That did include sandblasting it though, which I would like to do anyway. I'll have to go and get a firm price on the PC and sandblasting on monday.
I have some leftover gray DTM from another project I could use. I'm just not sure how the would look besides unique.
 

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I use the Chevy Orange a lot. It goes a long way, dries quickly, and spreads nicely...has an adjustable do dad on the spray valve for vertical and horizontal spray patterns. I also use Rustoleum Lobster Red spray cans. Same color as Chevy Orange, but takes a looooong time to dry. If it's not in a dust free environment, you'll pick up surface crap from the air. Have painted many many blowers and an Ariens GT tractor with good results. MH
 

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I have had good results with Rustoleum bombs. It's at least as good an an OEM finish. Painting now, ahead of the next working season to allow a full cure is a HUGE advantage.

My favorite is the line of Dupolicolor "ceramic" engine finishes.

Pete
 

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POR is pretty popular with auto restoration guys - can be applied over rust (intended to be), flows pretty well and produces a really resilient surface. In the past it did not offer UV protection so for surfaces exposed to light you needed to topcoat with something. Do not get this stuff on your skin. I would not powder coat - looks great until starts to peal and then you have a real mess on your hands. Personally I would media blast ... shoot with urethane primer and then a 2 part epoxy topcoat (any color you want).
 

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I have used rustoleum oil based paint in the quart can and either thinned with paint thinner or acetone depending on the outside temperature. a quart is less than 10 dollars and if you have a compressor and a cheap harbor freight paint gun you can do a great job if you take your time. Painting in the spring is best as oil paint will cure over time and the longer it cures the harder it gets. you would be surprised how well the summer sun will bake and cure that paint. I painted my Cub Cadet 3 years ago and used for three years and no chips yet except on the augers.
 

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Very interesting and educational thread, thanks.

My machine could definitely use a paint job. If I was smart, this is also probably the time to do it. But I don't relish the idea of taking the engine off the tractor half, etc. I do have the bucket apart at the moment.

I may hold off and put my first complete season on the machine, before deciding how far I want to go with paint. What I really should do is just put *some* sort of rust treatment on the exposed areas, I suppose. It is garaged now, so hopefully that will slow the rust a bit (I think the previous owner had it outside).

But I just bought a compressor, and hadn't even considered that I could now use something besides spray cans. Buying liquid paint, and an inexpensive paint gun, hadn't occurred to me. Thank you for mentioning that as an option.
 

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POR is pretty popular with auto restoration guys - can be applied over rust (intended to be), flows pretty well and produces a really resilient surface. In the past it did not offer UV protection so for surfaces exposed to light you needed to topcoat with something. Do not get this stuff on your skin. I would not powder coat - looks great until starts to peal and then you have a real mess on your hands. Personally I would media blast ... shoot with urethane primer and then a 2 part epoxy topcoat (any color you want).
that hardnose paint they have is 2 part and UV proof. and you can use spray can self etching primer tooo:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
 

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But I just bought a compressor, and hadn't even considered that I could now use something besides spray cans. Buying liquid paint, and an inexpensive paint gun, hadn't occurred to me. Thank you for mentioning that as an option.
I forgot to mention. If using the hardener especially... use the right mask. No paint job is worth risking your health.

Google has lots of information on using the cheap HF HVLP.
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-47016.html

There are also many threads over at mytractorforums regarding the use of the enamel hardener.
 

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I decided to go cheap and easy on the paint. I am using Rust Check primer and paint. The paint says no primer required, but I always feel better putting down a prime coat. Most of the original paint was OK and I could scratch it off with my fingernail in places, so the new paint should be at least as good and easy to touchup when required. I also bought a small can of POR15 to use inside the impeller housing and the chute.
 

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I forgot to mention. If using the hardener especially... use the right mask. No paint job is worth risking your health.

Google has lots of information on using the cheap HF HVLP.
Gravity Feed Spray Gun - 20 Oz. HVLP

There are also many threads over at mytractorforums regarding the use of the enamel hardener.
Thank you. I have a 3M mask (bought for another application), it would just be a question of ensuring the filter cartridges I have are appropriate.

I appreciate all the info, including on the HF sprayer!
 

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I decided to go cheap and easy on the paint. I am using Rust Check primer and paint. The paint says no primer required, but I always feel better putting down a prime coat. Most of the original paint was OK and I could scratch it off with my fingernail in places, so the new paint should be at least as good and easy to touchup when required. I also bought a small can of POR15 to use inside the impeller housing and the chute.

A lot of manufacturers use primerless paint systems today. Works really good (at getting it out the door cheap and augmenting their bottom line). The truth is it is just plain cheap and you pay the price down the line real quick. If you have rust you can't get out you need to condition the metal first using Phosphoric acid. You just spray it on let sit 10 minutes then rinse / dry. Then prime with epoxy primer (2 part) and paint with hardened (2 part) paint. I don't do this to touch things up usually but for a full paint job it's the only way to go and do it right.
 

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You spray paint cabinets, roll walls, spray paint is too thin on walls, too easily rubbed off.
 

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i really like the Rustoleum 2X paint and primer line. goes on very thick and doesn't run if you spray right. I use the gun attachment for easy spraying. have no idea if this is good for interior home projects but i have used it on exterior lawn chairs, twirlie lawn ornaments , snow blower parts. it seems to be holding up well .
 

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I could get this Bob-Cat powder coated, but that is expensive and chevy orange is the closest I can get colorwise. I can get 2part DTM paint for $100. a gallon tinted as I want. Tremclad brush or roll-on, which would be limited colors, or spraybombs, also limited colors. I am leaning towards the DTM.
i use rustoleam oil based primer and paint in quart cans. It only cost about 9 dollars a and can be thinned for spraying.

I have painted several snowblowers with it and it has held up very well in all cases. If you have a compressor you're all set
 
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