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Discussion Starter #1
snowblower was working fine...went to load it up in my truck and got some smoking in the drive area....now 1st and 2nd speeds whine and are not moving as strong as they should....every other speed including the reverse speeds are fine...
1st is barley a crawl and second is so so...

any ideas? im hoping I don't need a drive wheel....$170!.....anything I should be checking adjustment wise? I just did a engine swap but had no problems till I tried getting it up some steep ramps...
 

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Sounds like the belt or the drive wheel especially with the smoke. $170 is ridiculous, you should be able to find one in the $10 - $20 range. Could also be some bearings or something shot causing something to lock up with is causing the smoke. Could also be something as simple and the drive needing adjusted a tad bit tighter.

Did you try going forward or backwards up the ramps? If you were going forward then tipping the machine back could have caused oil to leak out and on to things as well.
 

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I think that price was for the disk drive plate?
Those new, are not cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
def not oil....I did take slack out of the cable for the drive control....didn't really help...

isn't the wheel #6?
MTD

im confused because every other speed works...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
could it be possible that the cable is too tight and putting too much pressure against the drive wheel?
 

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Sure looks like it is #6.

The plate I was talking about looks like this upper right in the picture.
http://www.snowblowerforum.com/forum/443257-post8.html

The plate is the larger disk you see, probably over a hundred bucks.
In the picture you can just see the wheel in the picture (it is smaller and has the rubber on it) that is around $20 bucks or so.

Your is different from then what I was talking about.
Shryp should know the price then, I guess?
 

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def not oil....I did take slack out of the cable for the drive control....didn't really help...

isn't the wheel #6?
MTD

im confused because every other speed works...
That is correct, however with this type you can replace just the rubber ring. The main wheel is split in half and the 2 parts bolt together.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
I tried loosing the cable....it feels like 3rd speed is first, 4th is second and so on...like 1st and second aren't there....but both reverse's work fine...

could it be the wheel? any other ideas?
 

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I am not sure which is the correct part number for you. If you search Google for "MTD rubber wheel" some come up. You will have to do some research to see which is the correct one for you.
 

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I am not sure which is the correct part number for you. If you search Google for "MTD rubber wheel" some come up. You will have to do some research to see which is the correct one for you.
this might be it
https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=2291&p=5181
or this one
https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=2291&p=9083

I have a 1992 model 660. The parts blowup showed the separate wheel with rubber but there was an upgrade to a new assembly which takes just the rubber part shown in the link. My assembly number does not match yours though and mine sells for about $70 for the assembly. But maybe rubber is the same.

If you have 31.......model number see if its listed here
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/MTD-Sears-Craftsman-Troy-Bilt-White-Cub-Cad-Friction-Wheel-Rubber-735-04054-/130583802002
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok...I needed a 5.5" wheel for my machine........which is all well and good....but do my symptoms sound like a bad friction wheel?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
well...took it apart today...split the wheel and found out that the rubber is vulcanized on the metal wheel...so I had to order a different one that had the wheel
 
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