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Hi again. My yamaha YS624 tracked is leaking oil. It is not catastrophic leak yet, oil level goes from high to almost low on winter seasons time (6 months). I was thinking on summer to fix this. But I don't see that where the oil is coming from. So my question is, is there a common leak point which should be checked? maybe some common seal that could be leaking on age, or from over tightening?

The impeller control cable also has the rubber "accordion" on the control lever perished from age. This causes the cable to freeze. Lock antifreeze works as remedy for now, but where could I order the cable on reasonable price? In europe?
 

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Are you leaking Hydrostatic Tranny Fluid....??? Sounds like it when you say " oil level goes from high to almost low on winter"

My YS624T's level has dropped to the lower level after 2 yrs of use....I just topped it up. Don't forget...it shrinks in the cold and expands when warm (like a lot of things..hehe).

You might consider changing the fluid in the tranny, as it sounds like an older machine.

Try a plastic glove's finger on the impeller cable.......zip tie the top after folding back on itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you leaking Hydrostatic Tranny Fluid....??? Sounds like it when you say " oil level goes from high to almost low on winter"

My YS624T's level has dropped to the lower level after 2 yrs of use....I just topped it up. Don't forget...it shrinks in the cold and expands when warm (like a lot of things..hehe).

You might consider changing the fluid in the tranny, as it sounds like an older machine.

Try a plastic glove's finger on the impeller cable.......zip tie the top after folding back on itself.
Mine is YS624 from the 90's. It does not have hydro, old style plate frictionwheel drive. Only fluids in this model are gasoline and engine oil.
 

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Auger won't last long without gear oil.
 

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Spray engine degreaser on it, wash it down, put colored fluorescent dye in the oil. You don't need to use much, won't hurt the engine. Yep, lol, thinking outside the box! Nuts? Yep! Nuts, me? Or the idea? But it will work.
 

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Per above, no way to tell, they don't have any history of leaks.
Clean it up good and keep a close eye on where oil shows up first (with a snowblower and a slow leak that is certainly iffy)
If its not showing up on the chassis, then its going out the exhaust.

The engine is a block, so unless its cracked underneath, the leak points are the front shaft, rear shaft, rear housing gasket or the head gasket. Head gasket is obvious.

You can pull the recoil assembly and see if there is an oil build up in it.

You can pull the head and see how much carbon is on it or if here is a step in the cylinder wall.


The other remote possible is the ring gaps have aligned and then stayed aligned. In that case you have to remove the piston and correct. Its pretty rare, sometimes they align but the rings will rotate and stop it again.

Carbon can stick rings but that is very remote. Other checks and only if you have a lot of carbon.


Frankly with slow oil use, if head is carboned up, scrape it and add oil as needed and scrape the head every couple of years (they recommend that anyway but never have - at this point I am somewhat in fear of upsetting something that works so well)
 
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