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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a test of the Yanmar YSR765C snow thrower, which I bought in Winter 2015/16.
A brief summary of the specifications:

OHV-4 cycle
203cc
7.0 PS
107kg
Transmission DISK CVT
0-3.4 km/h forward
0-2.0 km/h backward
Clearing Width 65 cm


First of all this machine does it's job. And it does it well.
The engine is really powerful, I've never been able to stall the motor even if the chute is totally clogged up by snow (it simply produces snow bricks then).
All handles and levers are easy to reach and to use.

The stepless transmission is really a dream. When you start working you pull down the clutch lever and don't have to release it until your job is done. All you have to do is pulling or pushing the shift lever to the position that meets your desired speed. The speed can be set very accurately. That way you can approach to walls, fences or curbs to a few centimeter at a very slow and therefore save speed.


The chain drive is very helpful. In my first thread I posted a picture showing the path leading from the garage to the house. The Yanmar climbs this slope without any problems. But it must not be thought that working with a chain driven snow blower always means light work. As soon as you come across compressed snow, the machine tends to climb up. This because the whole weight is carried by the chain drive so that the auger housing is more or less floating. Very often you have to lift the machine up with the handles so that it comes down on the front.


The throwing distance is specified with 14 m which is in my opinion a little to optimistic. My parking space is about 10m wide and the Yanmar never managed to throw that far. My guess is a distance of 8 down to 2 m if the snow is very slushy.


Apart from that here are some very annoying points that upsets you every time you have to use this machine:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Point 1: Starting behavior

In the first winter I often cursed when I wanted to start the engine. A minimum of 6 pulls were necessary to get the motor working. After the first summer break it even needed more than 30 pulls. One year later my dealer let me into the secret: The choke lever is faulty designed. After you pulled it out it snaps back a little to a position where to choke is not fully activated.
So what you have to do is pull and hold the choke with your left hand, reach in a yoga-ish way with your right hand below your left arm to the recoil starter and hope that your spinal discs are in a good mood.
Following these instructions you end up with an engine that starts up at the first or second pull.
It's a mystery why this failure has not been fixed even though it is already well known.
 

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Point 2: Cabling

The cabling of the Yanmar is an absolute mess. The fact that cables are laid in a such exposed and unprotected way is a shame for a snowblower that is sold for 3300 Euro. One should bear in mind that this machine has to work in an environment full of (frozen) water. In addition the cables can be ripped out by every scrub you come to close. So it is no wonder that the headlight of my snowblower is broken in the meantime (the bulb is okay). Protective covers should be a standard for machines of this price level.
 

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Point 3: Rust

After only a few years rust is showing on several places. Surprisingly it shows on parts that are not mechanically stressed at all. It has to be assumed that the painting of these parts is of a very poor quality. Even chromed parts like the fuel tank cover starts rusting.
Again a shame for a machine of this price level. Imagine a Japanese motor cycle that starts rusting after a few years.
Besides doing a better paint job it maybe would be a good idea to use plastic on some parts which also could reduce weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Point 4: Protruding parts

Headlight and chute adjustment handle protrude beyond the width of the auger housing, so that every time you clear snow e.g. along a wall you have to take care of these parts. If you are lucky the wall is build from loose snow and the headlight is scratching decorative pattern into it. If the wall is massive, the headlight gets broken and the handle becomes bent. This could be easily changed in the factory by moving these parts more to the inner side.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Point 5: Grease

The rotating part of the chute comes with a really thick layer of grease which at first sight could be judged in a positive way. But as there is no cover you have the choice between snowy grease or greasy snow when cleaning the machine. Finally your broom becomes greasy and the rotating parts loose their lubrication. A simple plastic cover would help a lot.
The marked pin got lost during the second winter and has to be replaced by a screw.
 

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Point 6: Smooth-running handle

The grip of the guide that holds the chute direction adjustment handle is way to smooth. Even because of the vibrations the handle always follows the gravitation and moves into a position where it points downwards. Depending on the throwing distance the difference can mean several meters. Annoying if you thereby throw the snow in the neighbors garden or on your own car. All you can do is holding the handle in the desired position, if possible at this moment.
A simple snap mechanism could do the trick.
 

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Point 7: Hazardous chute cover

The chute cover was build from metal rods with their edges aren't rounded off in any way. You can seriously damage you fingers or hand if you use the supplied snow cleaning rod. Removing the cover would be the more recommended way if you wouldn't have to loosen a nut on both sides. Lucky if you have an appropriate wrench at hand.
A more consumer friendly way would be providing this cover with wing nuts or even better with some kind of quick lock.
 

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Point 8: Bad workmanship

The shift lever is carelessly mounted. Firstly the plastic cover or to be precise the imprinted neutral position does not match the real neutral position. Furthermore the lever is mounted that way that it doesn't even touch the end stop of the N position. So it's easy to tilt the lever from the full speed forward position to the full speed reverse position with one move, which can according to the manual break the transmission. Besides the neutral position is very hard to find because it's within a few millimeters.
 

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Point 9: Vintage parts

Most of the parts seems to originate from engines of the 60s. The choke lever, the tank cover, the fuel tap that is hidden under the exhaust, the more or less useless fuel gauge. Many of these parts could be changed to a modern version that would offer many benefits. Already a plastic fuel tank would save additional weight and could spare the fuel gauge if made of semi transparent plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Conclusion

The typical final question: would I buy this snowblower again?

Well, at least I would have a closer look for alternatives. The machine does a really good job. Compared to my neighbors I can do my job way more fluidly. While they have to stop the snowblower, release the clutch lever, change gear, push down the clutch lever and accelerate again, working with the Yanmar is more like driving a car with an automatic transmission. And it really does what I was looking for: climbing the hill.

On the other hand the assembly of the machine is very sloppy, the quality of some parts, of the painting and chroming is very poor. Breaking metal pins or rattling exhaust cages are definitely not acceptable for machines of this price level.
If Yanmar would give their snowblower models some kind of face-lift and a more customer-friendly price calculation you could make a good catch.
 
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